Building a new shop
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If you ever thought about building a new shop, this article will help guide you through some of the thought process that goes into planning and building a new shop. | If you ever thought about building a new shop, this article will help guide you through some of the thought process that goes into planning and building a new shop. | ||
| − | All ideas contained in here are subject to the | + | All ideas contained in here are subject to the town planning scheme in your local jurisdiction, as well as climatic and economic conditions of your area. The final choice is totally up to you and your pocketbook. |
==Site selection== | ==Site selection== | ||
So where 'ya going to put it? Grab yourself a survey certificate with a drawing of your property lines in relation to your house location. Couple this up with the building code from your area, which will tell you things like maximum site coverage, distance for side yard clearances, max. heights, etc. Get a piece of graph paper along with a three sided architect's ruler with different scales. Using standard 1/4 inch graph paper, re-draw the lot size along with the structures on the property using the measurements found on the survey drawing. If you start off with a 8 1/2 X 11 inch page, you can then have this blown up at the local Kinko's to a size that you feel more comfortable with. | So where 'ya going to put it? Grab yourself a survey certificate with a drawing of your property lines in relation to your house location. Couple this up with the building code from your area, which will tell you things like maximum site coverage, distance for side yard clearances, max. heights, etc. Get a piece of graph paper along with a three sided architect's ruler with different scales. Using standard 1/4 inch graph paper, re-draw the lot size along with the structures on the property using the measurements found on the survey drawing. If you start off with a 8 1/2 X 11 inch page, you can then have this blown up at the local Kinko's to a size that you feel more comfortable with. | ||
| − | Your next stop is to have the local utilities company come down and stake out the location of existing underground lines for power, gas, water, and phone/cable, and plan the placement of the additional services to the new building. Most states have a "One Call" phone number that will inform all utility companies. The phone numbers can be found in your local phone book, or by | + | Your next stop is to have the local utilities company come down and stake out the location of existing underground lines for power, gas, water, and phone/cable, and plan the placement of the additional services to the new building. Most states have a "One Call" phone number that will inform all utility companies. The phone numbers can be found in your local phone book, or by googling "One Call" and your state name. In some states this is mandatory by law, even on your own property. In the event utility locations are done and you were to "hit" a unmarked service, you will not be responsible. Transfer these measurements to your plot plan drawing and color code each utility to make them distinctive. |
Now, you're ready to decide what size structure you need. On a separate sheet of paper, draw out different sizes of buildings using the same scale size as your plot plan, and cut out outlines. Try different outline placements and shapes. If you use heavier construction paper, they will lay flatter and stay in place as you adjust them on your plot plan. You can even draw in existing or future landscape features so that you will be able to look at the total picture of your project. | Now, you're ready to decide what size structure you need. On a separate sheet of paper, draw out different sizes of buildings using the same scale size as your plot plan, and cut out outlines. Try different outline placements and shapes. If you use heavier construction paper, they will lay flatter and stay in place as you adjust them on your plot plan. You can even draw in existing or future landscape features so that you will be able to look at the total picture of your project. | ||
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An outer perimeter of rebar is a must to tie all corners of the slab together. When any openings are encountered, you should double the rebar and thicken the width and depth of the concrete and pour a grade beam to help bear the weight and anchor the side posts of opening to the slab. Wire mesh for re-enforcing the slab should be tied to the perimeter rebar and rebar 'chairs' should lift the rebar to float in the middle of the concrete slab. Do not rely on someone lifting the wire mesh as you are pouring. | An outer perimeter of rebar is a must to tie all corners of the slab together. When any openings are encountered, you should double the rebar and thicken the width and depth of the concrete and pour a grade beam to help bear the weight and anchor the side posts of opening to the slab. Wire mesh for re-enforcing the slab should be tied to the perimeter rebar and rebar 'chairs' should lift the rebar to float in the middle of the concrete slab. Do not rely on someone lifting the wire mesh as you are pouring. | ||
| − | Any electrical conduit should be under the mesh and conduits should be tied to vertical staking to maintain proper heights. In-floor heating lines should be laid in work zones and above the wire mesh. Header pipes should be staked as stated above and all joints in lines should be ABOVE the concrete. | + | Any electrical conduit should be under the mesh, and conduits should be tied to vertical staking to maintain proper heights. In-floor heating lines should be laid in work zones and above the wire mesh. Header pipes should be staked as stated above and all joints in lines should be ABOVE the concrete. |
Some people prefer a curb around the perimeter of the building, rather than a slab. The reason for the curb is that it will keep out moisture, insects, etc. When pouring floors, always have a rotating laser level on hand and double check levels as the pour and leveling goes on. Grade floor from corners to middle, and center of space to outdoor openings. Put a sump pit in large buildings to collect runoff water and use a gravity drain or pump out system to remove it. Increase floor thickness in areas where you are using a lift or have heavy shop equipment. | Some people prefer a curb around the perimeter of the building, rather than a slab. The reason for the curb is that it will keep out moisture, insects, etc. When pouring floors, always have a rotating laser level on hand and double check levels as the pour and leveling goes on. Grade floor from corners to middle, and center of space to outdoor openings. Put a sump pit in large buildings to collect runoff water and use a gravity drain or pump out system to remove it. Increase floor thickness in areas where you are using a lift or have heavy shop equipment. | ||
| − | + | If you are considering a car lift or heavy vehicles, you should plan on a slab thickness of at least 6" rather than 4". Tell the concrete installer that you want a "smooth' floor. Try sweeping rough concrete and then try smooth. You will never want rough again. | |
| − | If you are in a frost zone you should probably inquire about "frost walls." Frost footings are dictated by code where applicable, typically slab on grade shops or garages over 28' x 28' will require footings, again this is dictated by code and is dependent on typical frost depths in your area. This link is a contour map of the United States showing average frost depths encountered | + | If you are in a frost zone you should probably inquire about "frost walls." Frost footings are dictated by code where applicable, typically slab on grade shops or garages over 28' x 28' will require footings, again this is dictated by code and is dependent on typical frost depths in your area. This link is a contour map of the United States showing average frost depths encountered: http://www.soundfootings.com/pdf/US_Map_Frost_DepthAVG.pdf. This will keep the outer walls from lifting and cracking with the frost. This is also the time to consider floor drains. Ask the floor installer about it. He should have good ideas and it won't cost that much. If you are bound by building codes inquire with your building inspections department about drains. |
| − | If you are bound by building codes inquire with your building inspections department about drains. | + | |
==Walls and roofs== | ==Walls and roofs== | ||
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