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| | ===Oil-based machine paint=== | | ===Oil-based machine paint=== |
| | ====Rustoleum==== | | ====Rustoleum==== |
| − | Rustoleum does not have UV protection. Its use will result in a paint job that will fade, chalk, and peel. Keeping in mind that low end automotive enamel paint is subject to the same problems. And these problems can also be observed on neglected older cars that came from the factory with enamel paint. Key word "neglected". Rustoleum can resist chalking and weathering almost as well as factory enamel paint if taken care of. Many people tend to judge Rustoleum by how it weathers on outdoor equipment and its other more usual applications. But no one buffs and waxes the wrought iron railings on their steps or outdoor oil tanks, so yes the paint tends to suffer.
| + | =====Pros==== |
| − | Rustoleum frankly can not compare with a "catalyzed" or "two part" automotive paint for durability and hardness. Also there are no viable Rustoleum metallic paints for auto painting. Rustoleum enamels also lack the "depth" of color that many other types of paints have, though some people like the look as it compares well with many 1960's factory enamel paint jobs in appearence. Durability doesn't compare though as OEM enamel paint is "baked" after application. Such baking requires a pretty darn big "oven". Until the early 1960's, many OEM's used alkyd enamels to paint their cars which were quite similar to what Rustoleum has for sale today. Some import manufacturers continued using alkyd enamels into at least the 1980's. For example a 1981 Isuzu pickup will have a buck tag underhood clearly stating "alkyd enamel" as the OEM paint. Dupont's website has a small history section that makes mention of their alkyd enamel automotive paint, "Dulux".
| + | *Rustoleum can resist chalking and weathering almost as well as factory enamel paint if taken care of. Many people tend to judge Rustoleum by how it weathers on outdoor equipment and its other more usual applications. But no one buffs and waxes the wrought iron railings on their steps or outdoor oil tanks, so, yes, the paint tends to suffer. |
| − | Rustoleum has been successfully applied by spraying, rolling, and foam brushing. The last two methods are accompanied by rather a lot of sanding. Also when rolling or brushing to get good results one should expect to put down up to ten VERY thin coats of paint. Decent results can be gotten by all three application methods. Rolling and brushing are popular with people who could never spray paint a car because of where they live and/or where they can park the car to work on it. Another plus is that unlike a base coat-clear coat type spray paint job where things must be done within certain time frames, a Rustoleum roll and brush job can be started and stopped at the painter's convenience. Users of stock color Rustoleum report that repaints and color matching touch up repairs after accidents are very easily accomplished.
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| − | One last plus to Rustoleum is that it is "cheap" and widely available. If you are considering using it, it is highly recommended that you expend a few dollars on some to experiment with first. Take it home and apply it to something like a garden tractor or spare car hood in the same way you would to your car. Sand it, polish it, wax it, the whole thing. Then study it very closely and decide if this is something you indeed want on your car.
| + | *Until the early 1960's, many OEM's used alkyd enamels to paint their cars, which were quite similar to what Rustoleum has for sale today. Some import manufacturers continued using alkyd enamels into at least the 1980's. For example a 1981 Isuzu pickup will have a buck tag underhood clearly stating "alkyd enamel" as the OEM paint. Dupont's website has [http://pc.dupont.com/dpc/en/US/html/common/about/dr-history.html a small history section] that makes mention of their alkyd enamel automotive paint, "Dulux". |
| | + | |
| | + | *Inexpensive, and widely available. |
| | + | |
| | + | *Unlike a base coat-clear coat type spray paint job where things must be done within certain time frames, a Rustoleum roll and brush job can be started and stopped at the painter's convenience. |
| | + | |
| | + | =====Cons===== |
| | + | *Rustoleum does not have UV protection. Its use will result in a paint job that will fade, chalk, and peel. |
| | + | |
| | + | *Rustoleum frankly can not compare with a "catalyzed" or "two part" automotive paint for durability and hardness. |
| | + | |
| | + | *There are no viable Rustoleum metallic paints for auto painting. |
| | + | |
| | + | *Rustoleum enamels also lack the "depth" of color that many other types of paints have, though some people like the look as it compares well with many 1960's factory enamel paint jobs in appearance. |
| | + | |
| | + | =====Application===== |
| | + | If you are considering using Rustoleum, it is highly recommended that you spend a few dollars on some to experiment with first. Take it home and apply it to something like a garden tractor or spare car hood in the same way you would to your car. Sand it, polish it, wax it, the whole thing. Then study it very closely and decide if this is something you indeed want on your car. |
| | + | |
| | + | Rustoleum has been successfully applied by spraying, rolling, and foam brushing. The last two methods are accompanied by rather a lot of sanding. Also when rolling or brushing to get good results one should expect to put down up to ten VERY thin coats of paint. Decent results can be achieved by all three application methods. |
| | | | |
| | ==Why is the "cheapo" paint job so tempting?== | | ==Why is the "cheapo" paint job so tempting?== |
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