Freeing a stuck engine
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===Flood water damage=== | ===Flood water damage=== | ||
| − | The clay or silt particles present in flood water will puddle out deep inside of the engine and hang on to the rough casting surfaces of all the internal workings. These clay particles are so | + | The clay or silt particles present in flood water will puddle out deep inside of the engine and hang on to the rough casting surfaces of all the internal workings. These clay particles are so small that when they are in solution they will infiltrate a bearing. When the water dries, they will form a layer of dust within the bearing. The dust will wick up the oil from the surface and water vapor from the air will start to rust the steel surface over time. The dust will also have acids and alkalines (caustics) attached to it, and together with water vapor will etch the bearing surfaces. |
After a flood, priorities arise. Newer, essential and operational vehicles take priority, others will have to wait. The flooded engines will just have to wait, sometimes after freeze-up, sometimes even longer. Internal damage and cracked blocks and heads are usually the result of frozen water. Sometimes they will end up being junked for the cast iron. | After a flood, priorities arise. Newer, essential and operational vehicles take priority, others will have to wait. The flooded engines will just have to wait, sometimes after freeze-up, sometimes even longer. Internal damage and cracked blocks and heads are usually the result of frozen water. Sometimes they will end up being junked for the cast iron. | ||
==Understanding and preparation== | ==Understanding and preparation== | ||
| − | What you discovered above will lead you to understanding the solution to unsticking the engine. An engine that was in a covered shed, had no visible sign of water infiltration, and was full of oil and coolant but stuck, is usually an easy fix. The rings which are cast iron are stuck to the cast cylinder walls but only in the cylinders which are open to the atmosphere. If you followed the firing order of the engine, you could determine which are open cylinders and which are closed. You can start by pulling the spark plugs out to relieve any compression in the cylinders. Put some diesel fuel into each cylinder with a trigger type oil can. Use a least an ounce in each hole and allow to sit for a few hours. While that's working, back off on the fan belts, remove the air cleaner and valve covers. Charge up the battery, clean the cables and make sure all electrical connections are tight. Remove the fan shroud if there is one. Get a 3 foot breaker bar with a 3/4" drive and the appropriate socket for the front pulley bolt. Remove the coil wire from the distributor/coil. Find two friends and explain what you are about to do and what each one has to look for or do. | + | What you discovered above will lead you to understanding the solution to unsticking the engine. An engine that was in a covered shed, had no visible sign of water infiltration, and was full of oil and coolant but stuck, is usually an easy fix. The rings which are cast iron are stuck to the cast cylinder walls but only in the cylinders which are open to the atmosphere. If you followed the firing order of the engine, you could determine which are open cylinders and which are closed. You can start by pulling the spark plugs out to relieve any compression in the cylinders. Put some diesel fuel into each cylinder with a trigger type oil can. Use a least an ounce in each hole and allow to sit for a few hours. While that's working, back off on the fan belts, remove the air cleaner and valve covers. Charge up the battery, clean the cables and make sure all electrical connections are tight. Remove the fan shroud if there is one. Get a 3-foot breaker bar with a 3/4" drive and the appropriate socket for the front pulley bolt. Remove the coil wire from the distributor/coil. Find two friends and explain what you are about to do and what each one has to look for or do. |
==Breaking the engine loose== | ==Breaking the engine loose== | ||
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Finding a fluid that will penetrate and lubricate is the key. You need something that will creep, stay wet, and wick its way up into the most awkward and obtrusive spot. Ordinary motor oil will coat but creeps at a very slow pace. Petroleum or mineral spirits will get into small places but will dry out over time. Paraffin will wick its way up or down a threaded bolt when it is at the correct temperature. Acids will 'burn' their way and may be hard to control. Caustics are more of a slow burn and will require an outside energy source to work better. Water will penetrate, wet and coat but has limitations. Diesel fuel, is a middle-of-the-road fluid that will creep, coat and stay wet over time. If you're feeling adventurous, you can mix up your own solution (WD40 did). | Finding a fluid that will penetrate and lubricate is the key. You need something that will creep, stay wet, and wick its way up into the most awkward and obtrusive spot. Ordinary motor oil will coat but creeps at a very slow pace. Petroleum or mineral spirits will get into small places but will dry out over time. Paraffin will wick its way up or down a threaded bolt when it is at the correct temperature. Acids will 'burn' their way and may be hard to control. Caustics are more of a slow burn and will require an outside energy source to work better. Water will penetrate, wet and coat but has limitations. Diesel fuel, is a middle-of-the-road fluid that will creep, coat and stay wet over time. If you're feeling adventurous, you can mix up your own solution (WD40 did). | ||
| − | Know what metal that you are working with and apply the correct solution to get the best result. We know that steel or iron will rust, but how do we penetrate that rust? Aluminum will form a white powdery residue and turn a dark grey almost black coating, what is that? Brass and copper will be covered with a green cakey substance, how do we remove that? Most metals will form what is known as an oxide, where oxygen from the air mixes on the surface with the base metal. We do know that when these oxides dry out they are usually hard to wet and to remove. | + | Know what metal that you are working with and apply the correct solution to get the best result. We know that steel or iron will rust, but how do we penetrate that [[rust]]? Aluminum will form a white powdery residue and turn a dark grey almost black coating, what is that? Brass and copper will be covered with a green cakey substance, how do we remove that? Most metals will form what is known as an oxide, where oxygen from the air mixes on the surface with the base metal. We do know that when these oxides dry out they are usually hard to wet and to remove. |
Why not just re-wet the piece of metal with the same thing that caused it to fail! If water cause a piece of steel to rust, why not use water to re-wet it and remove the rust; i.e. waterjet. | Why not just re-wet the piece of metal with the same thing that caused it to fail! If water cause a piece of steel to rust, why not use water to re-wet it and remove the rust; i.e. waterjet. | ||
| − | Heat is an excellent tool for unsticking things, when used in moderation | + | Heat is an excellent tool for unsticking things, but only when used in moderation. If you heated up water to 180 to 200 degrees and poured it in an engine block, what would happen? Would the block expand? If you used a large rosebud flame torch and applied it to the cast iron block, what would happen? Probably crack, most would say. If you applied both hot water and the torch to the same motor block with moderation, what would be the result? What would stay hotter longer: water or oil? |
Would hitting a stuck piston help it to move? The answer is, yes and no. If you apply enough force in the proper direction, yes it would help. If you just wound up and smacked it dead center with a ball peen hammer, you would probably just put a hole in it and it would still remain stuck. The better way to approach this when you have a stuck engine would be this way: | Would hitting a stuck piston help it to move? The answer is, yes and no. If you apply enough force in the proper direction, yes it would help. If you just wound up and smacked it dead center with a ball peen hammer, you would probably just put a hole in it and it would still remain stuck. The better way to approach this when you have a stuck engine would be this way: | ||
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#It would be a hell of a waste if we just gave up on an engine just because it wouldn't turn over. How about turning it back? Could we have just dropped a valve on the piston and its just stuck there. | #It would be a hell of a waste if we just gave up on an engine just because it wouldn't turn over. How about turning it back? Could we have just dropped a valve on the piston and its just stuck there. | ||
#Remove non-essential accessories that aren't required to make the engine rotate. That means that you can loosen the belts off or remove the alternator, water pump, intakes and exhaust manifolds, distributors, heads, oil pans, etc. Get it down to where you can have a good look around and see where the problem area lays. | #Remove non-essential accessories that aren't required to make the engine rotate. That means that you can loosen the belts off or remove the alternator, water pump, intakes and exhaust manifolds, distributors, heads, oil pans, etc. Get it down to where you can have a good look around and see where the problem area lays. | ||
| − | #Keep the engine in a secure holding device. If it's the frame of the car or truck, that's good, but make sure that the motor mounts aren't going to rip off if we apply | + | #Keep the engine in a secure holding device. If it's the frame of the car or truck, that's good, but make sure that the motor mounts aren't going to rip off if we apply some torsional turning devices to the engine,i.e. 6 foot steel track bar. If the engine is loose, find a way to hold it down. Remember, the tensile strength of steel is greater than wood. And if one bolt is good, a half a dozen would be better. |
#Flood the engine block with the fluid of your choice. Turn it upside down and fill the block, and plug holes as necessary. This is just a pre-lube stage. | #Flood the engine block with the fluid of your choice. Turn it upside down and fill the block, and plug holes as necessary. This is just a pre-lube stage. | ||
#Using an oak block and a dead blow hammer of your choice, SHOCK each piston with a few blows. Any piston which is the TDC or BDC position will not give you any mechanical advantage in rotating the assembly by hitting it. The initial strike is to just loosen the rings in the piston lands and break the rings free from the walls of the cylinder. Pistons that are in between TDC and BDC will provide the best opportunity to move within the bore. | #Using an oak block and a dead blow hammer of your choice, SHOCK each piston with a few blows. Any piston which is the TDC or BDC position will not give you any mechanical advantage in rotating the assembly by hitting it. The initial strike is to just loosen the rings in the piston lands and break the rings free from the walls of the cylinder. Pistons that are in between TDC and BDC will provide the best opportunity to move within the bore. | ||
| − | #There are two places in which you can apply rotational force. One is the crank pulley and the other is the flywheel. If the engine is in the frame of the vehicle, use the crank pulley. If it's out of the vehicle, use the flywheel. Iron pulleys and balancers will take more abuse than steel pulleys. Crank keys and keyways can shear with abnormal force. Be sure of the bolt grades before applying force. Remember there are two ways to turn an engine, use both of them | + | #There are two places in which you can apply rotational force. One is the crank pulley and the other is the flywheel. If the engine is in the frame of the vehicle, use the crank pulley. If it's out of the vehicle, use the flywheel. Iron pulleys and balancers will take more abuse than steel pulleys. Crank keys and keyways can shear with abnormal force. Be sure of the bolt grades before applying force. Remember there are two ways to turn an engine, use both of them (CW and CCW). |
#Don't forget to use horizontal force on the crankshaft. Tap the crankshaft at both ends with your dead blow hammer and oak block. Loosen off the rod bearings and tap with a bronze hammer to break the shell bearings loose. | #Don't forget to use horizontal force on the crankshaft. Tap the crankshaft at both ends with your dead blow hammer and oak block. Loosen off the rod bearings and tap with a bronze hammer to break the shell bearings loose. | ||
#After you've done all of the above, let 'er soak and then start over again. She'll loosen! | #After you've done all of the above, let 'er soak and then start over again. She'll loosen! | ||
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| + | Here's a trick I have used on motorcycle engines but am sure would work on any piston engine. After trying the aforementioned soaking to no avail, determine which cylinder is on the compression stroke by removing the spark plugs and using a compression gauge hose or other hose that fits snugly in the spark plug hole. Blow in the hose, if you can't easily then you have the one on compression stroke (if you use a gauge hose make sure it has no schrader valve in it). Break the porcelain out of an old spark plug and thread the metal body for a large grease fitting (1/4 NPT). Insert the plug in the compression cylinder and pump it full using a grease gun filled with cheap light weight grease (like white grease). Grease guns can develop thousands of pounds of pressure with no impact. Once the motor breaks free you can rotate the motor to squeeze most of the grease out of the spark plug hole. | ||
==Unsticking an engine in a manual transmission vehicle== | ==Unsticking an engine in a manual transmission vehicle== | ||
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