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If using a waterproof paint, a waterproof body filler may be unnecessary anyway. | If using a waterproof paint, a waterproof body filler may be unnecessary anyway. | ||
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| + | ==Body filler tips== | ||
| + | *For body lines and peaks on hoods or doors, use a contour gauge to make a custom plastic filler spreader: | ||
| + | #Place the contour gauge on an undamaged area to get the contour. | ||
| + | #Trace the contour onto a plastic body filler spreader. | ||
| + | #Trim out the shape on the spreader. | ||
| + | *Cut filler spreaders to the desired size. | ||
| + | *To clean body filler spreaders, use 1/4 of a 3M scuff pad with lacquer thinner on it. A metal quart can with a lid makes a safe way to store the scuff pad along with some lacquer thinner. | ||
| + | *For reproducing small parts such as gaskets, use plastic body filler to make a mold: | ||
| + | #If the part doesn't already exist, a replica has to be made in its shape (for example, carve it out of soft plastic). | ||
| + | #Apply some wax to the part (this will act as a mold release), and lay it down on a piece of wax paper. | ||
| + | #Mix up some body filler, and place it in a small cup or bowl (the cap on a plastic jug may work). | ||
| + | #While the filler is still wet, place it over the part. | ||
| + | #When the filler hardens, it can be removed and used as a mold. | ||
| + | *When applying body filler upside down, apply the filler to a sheet of thin plastic (such as the side of a milk jug) and press it into place. When the filler hardens, peel the plastic away. | ||
| + | *Use an aluminum ruler to find high and low spots such as doors, hood to fender, trunk lid to fender, etc. | ||
| + | *If using filler with hatonite you can sand filler while still tacky. This will shred the filler smooth easily with hardly any pressure. When finished, follow up with a polyester glaze or add filler thinner to your final coat of filler. | ||
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==DIY body filler recipes== | ==DIY body filler recipes== | ||
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