How to rebuild an engine
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== Disassembly== | == Disassembly== | ||
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| + | Disassembly is usually broken down in to two ways. One is removal of external parts and accessories and the other is the actual disassemble of the engine block and its internal parts. | ||
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Step-by-step. Everything you need to do to your engine prior to assessing it for machine work. | Step-by-step. Everything you need to do to your engine prior to assessing it for machine work. | ||
Before you start taking things off of your engine there are a few items you want to have on hand so you can start and finish with few stops and starts. | Before you start taking things off of your engine there are a few items you want to have on hand so you can start and finish with few stops and starts. | ||
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The first items that come off of an engine I am going to rebuild are the exhaust manifolds. Then take off all the brackets holding the A/C compressor, alternator,power steering pump, and smog pump. Then take the distributor out. I wrap a clean rag around the bottom end of the distributor and then put it into a zip-lock plastic bag. I can then clean this later. Now for the carburetor or fuel injection or throttle body. For the injectors I put them into plastic bags. Again when it comes time to put new "O"-rings on the injectors I can work on each, one at a time, without getting them dinged up in the fastener can. If the engine has a carburetor do not turn it upside down unless you plan on installing a rebuild kit on it also. Any "crud" that has settled to the bottom of the carburetor fuel bowl will become lodged in places you do not want dirt or rust, so keep it right-side up and again wrap a clean rag around it and then pop it into a plastic bag. I do not like to keep the carburetor in the garage all wrapped up like this so I put it in the storage shed with the gas cans and things. If you are working on an engine with a throttle body just put the unit in a plastic bag for now. At a later time you can put in new "O" rings. You just don't need all these parts in your way until you start to reassemble the engine. | The first items that come off of an engine I am going to rebuild are the exhaust manifolds. Then take off all the brackets holding the A/C compressor, alternator,power steering pump, and smog pump. Then take the distributor out. I wrap a clean rag around the bottom end of the distributor and then put it into a zip-lock plastic bag. I can then clean this later. Now for the carburetor or fuel injection or throttle body. For the injectors I put them into plastic bags. Again when it comes time to put new "O"-rings on the injectors I can work on each, one at a time, without getting them dinged up in the fastener can. If the engine has a carburetor do not turn it upside down unless you plan on installing a rebuild kit on it also. Any "crud" that has settled to the bottom of the carburetor fuel bowl will become lodged in places you do not want dirt or rust, so keep it right-side up and again wrap a clean rag around it and then pop it into a plastic bag. I do not like to keep the carburetor in the garage all wrapped up like this so I put it in the storage shed with the gas cans and things. If you are working on an engine with a throttle body just put the unit in a plastic bag for now. At a later time you can put in new "O" rings. You just don't need all these parts in your way until you start to reassemble the engine. | ||
For an engine with a carburetor now is the time for the fuel pump to be taken off. On Small Block Chevys (SBC), there is a spacer plate that needs to be removed also so you can take the fuel pump push rod out of the block. I put this rod and the spacer plate in with the fasteners. | For an engine with a carburetor now is the time for the fuel pump to be taken off. On Small Block Chevys (SBC), there is a spacer plate that needs to be removed also so you can take the fuel pump push rod out of the block. I put this rod and the spacer plate in with the fasteners. | ||
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| + | Disassembly of the engine starts with the removal of the valve covers. The rocker arms should then be removed and placed in number sequence so that they can easily be identified from where they came. Pushrods can be pulled and placed in a shallow pan for cleaning and re-use. Head bolts should be removed and inserted in a cardboard template to make note of there location. Prying up with a pry bar in the intake ports to cause separation of the head from the block, watch for coolant spills. Use a wide blade screwdriver to lever the heads up off the block and dowel pins. Remove the heads to a solid work bench for inspection. Remove lifters from their bores by tilting the engine over and letting gravity assist you or use a hook to remove the hard ones. Pull the crank pulley, timing cover and the oil pan. You did DRAIN THE OIL, DIDN'T YOU? Remove the timing gears and chain. Pull the camshaft. Remove the oil pump and drive rod. Before un-doing the rod shells, take a number set and number the caps and the rods. Pull off the cap on ONE rod and using a hardwood block tap out the piston and then go on to the next. With all the pistons out, match up the caps and loosely nut them. Pull the flywheel or flex plate. Un-do the main bearing bolts, pull the bearing shells, with care lift the crank out of the bearing shells and place on the work bench. Make sure that you block the crank so it won't roll off the bench. Nothing worse the tweaking a crank when it hits the floor. Wash down all the parts and block. Lightly coat the bearing surfaces with clean oil and spray engine bores with WD40 to keep rust and contamination to a minimum. | ||
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| + | Depending on your experience, take block and crank to the machine shop for mic'ing or inspect and mic your engine using the specs contained in your manual. | ||
== Machining == | == Machining == | ||
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