Removing chrome trim

[[Category:Body and exterior]]

[[Category:Body and exterior]]

Back in the day that was a must ! Remove the hood and trunk lid trim from your early 50’s. If you had the chepo you didn't have any side trim. (Mine was) PRACTICE on scrap First All I had was a gas welder and the problem was to weld it with out warping the metal. I got some steel rod just a little larger than the hole. Sand off the paint around the hole. Then oversize the hole to match the rod. Sand the inside around the hole, polish the rod so it is clean, cut a small piece. Don't use galvanized bolts for the rod. The rod has to be a tight fit. Carefully start heating the rod then when it is hot use flux coated brazing rod and at the right temperature it will flow around the joint. Check the backside. for weld flow. Cool with a rag then grind-sand both sides smooth, then you can metal finish it and low temp heat shrink if you need too. The whole key is not to get too much heat and start warping everything Leading holes... Some guys used body solder (LEAD) In order to get the solder to stick you must sand and clean around the hole, then. Turn each hole into a bullet hole Use a punch and a Big hammer and a hard blow, Then use tinning compound and a wad of steel wool. I usually held it with a pair of pliers and do the regular leading process. You need to have bullet holes so there is a larger area around the hole for the lead to stick and not fall out of the hole. If you have a mig or tig welder sand and clean everything and drill a little oversize to clean out the inside of the hole.  Use a copper backup behind the hole. Flattened copper water pipe works pretty good. Still don't over heat the weld area! Small tacks and cool between. Sometimes you get better weld finish by starting on the backside. Sometimes using a little heat with oxy - acety or tig to reflow the weld from the front.  Don't overheat. We used to use asbestos base putty - paste to make a rope and apply about a 3/8 x 3 in dia circle around the hole to absorb the excess heat. Today you can buy non-asbestos Heat Spone to absorb the heat. After welding I have been keeping the used sponge in another bottle. I haven't tried to add water and remix and reuse it like we did with the old stuff. Practice until you get the hang of it.

Back in the day that was a must ! Remove the hood and trunk lid trim from your early 50’s. If you had the chepo you didn't have any side trim. (Mine was) PRACTICE on scrap First All I had was a gas welder and the problem was to weld it with out warping the metal. I got some steel rod just a little larger than the hole. Sand off the paint around the hole. Then oversize the hole to match the rod. Sand the inside around the hole, polish the rod so it is clean, cut a small piece. Don't use galvanized bolts for the rod. The rod has to be a tight fit. Carefully start heating the rod then when it is hot use flux coated brazing rod and at the right temperature it will flow around the joint. Check the backside. for weld flow. Cool with a rag then grind-sand both sides smooth, then you can metal finish it and low temp heat shrink if you need too. The whole key is not to get too much heat and start warping everything Leading holes... Some guys used body solder (LEAD) In order to get the solder to stick you must sand and clean around the hole, then. Turn each hole into a bullet hole Use a punch and a Big hammer and a hard blow, Then use tinning compound and a wad of steel wool. I usually held it with a pair of pliers and do the regular leading process. You need to have bullet holes so there is a larger area around the hole for the lead to stick and not fall out of the hole. If you have a mig or tig welder sand and clean everything and drill a little oversize to clean out the inside of the hole.  Use a copper backup behind the hole. Flattened copper water pipe works pretty good. Still don't over heat the weld area! Small tacks and cool between. Sometimes you get better weld finish by starting on the backside. Sometimes using a little heat with oxy - acety or tig to reflow the weld from the front.  Don't overheat. We used to use asbestos base putty - paste to make a rope and apply about a 3/8 x 3 in dia circle around the hole to absorb the excess heat. Today you can buy non-asbestos Heat Spone to absorb the heat. After welding I have been keeping the used sponge in another bottle. I haven't tried to add water and remix and reuse it like we did with the old stuff. Practice until you get the hang of it.