Removing chrome trim
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[[Category:Body and exterior]] | [[Category:Body and exterior]] | ||
| − | Back in the day that was a must ! Remove the hood and trunk lid trim from your early 50’s. If you had the chepo you didn't have any side trim. (Mine was) | + | Back in the day that was a must ! Remove the hood and trunk lid trim from your early 50’s. If you had the chepo you didn't have any side trim. (Mine was) |
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| − | + | PRACTICE on scrap First all I had was a gas welder and the problem was to weld it with out warping the metal. I got some steel rod just a little larger than the hole. Sand off the paint around the hole. Then oversize the hole to match the rod. Sand the inside around the hole, polish the rod so it is clean, cut a small piece. Don't use galvanized bolts for the rod. The rod has to be a tight fit. | |
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| + | Carefully start heating the rod then when it is hot use flux coated brazing rod and at the right temperature it will flow around the joint. Check the backside. for weld flow. Cool with a rag then grind-sand both sides smooth, then you can metal finish it and low temp heat shrink if you need too. The whole key is not to get too much heat and start warping everything. | ||
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| + | Leading holes... Some guys used body solder (LEAD) In order to get the solder to stick you must sand and clean around the hole, then. Turn each hole into a bullet hole Use a punch and a Big hammer and a hard blow, Then use tinning compound and a wad of steel wool. I usually held it with a pair of pliers and do the regular leading process. You need to have bullet holes so there is a larger area around the hole for the lead to stick and not fall out of the hole. If you have a mig or tig welder sand and clean everything and drill a little oversize to clean out the inside of the hole. Use a copper backup behind the hole. Flattened copper water pipe works pretty good. Still don't over heat the weld area! Small tacks and cool between. Sometimes you get better weld finish by starting on the backside. Sometimes using a little heat with oxy - acety or tig to reflow the weld from the front. Don't overheat. We used to use asbestos base putty - paste to make a rope and apply about a 3/8 x 3 in dia circle around the hole to absorb the excess heat. Today you can buy non-asbestos Heat Spone to absorb the heat. After welding I have been keeping the used sponge in another bottle. I haven't tried to add water and remix and reuse it like we did with the old stuff. Practice until you get the hang of it. | ||
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| + | #2 02-23-2010, 07:10 AM | ||
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| + | One method of filling holes in sheet metal is with 16 d nails pushed thru from the backside to fill the holes... tack in place then finish weld. | ||
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| − | Removing | + | Removing Body side Trim. Most moldings use a threaded stud at the ends Best to remove the interior panels as necessary . If you have the metal push in clips you need to squeeze the legs in, a small socket on a 1/4 hand driver sometimes works or weld a piece of tubing to the end of an old screwdriver at 90 degrees to compress the legs to the same size as the drilled holes. then push out the legs with a piece of rod through the tube. . For weld stud clips when you get the end nuts off gently pull the molding away from the body and a slight twist. Use a plastic bondo spreader to work under the bottom edge to lift the molding. Most Ford moldings were designed with more curl (grip) under the top edge. Moldings that use metal clips have a wide spot under neath where the clip was inserted then slid to the mark on the assembly fixture to align with the holes. Most slide better one way than the other. |
| − | REMOVING weld clip style windshield and | + | |
| + | REMOVING weld clip style windshield and back glass trim. , the molding was held in with clips over weld studs.... to prevent damage to paint you can apply a strip of masking tape. then use a putty knife, about1 inch wide works for me . start on the body metal side and pry a little to see where the clip is located and pry up gently, Usually start at the end of the overlap piece.. the first clip is usually a couple of inches from the joint. sometimes you have to work 2 spots at a time. If you have a pick your own part wrecking yard go and practice . some of the clips are different colors. have different shapes for different size moldings. If you break the weld studs the factory repair was to use a small drill point screw near the location. Screws used for metal wall studs work pretty good, pan head style | ||
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