Adjusting hydraulic lifters
(→Adjusting Hydraulic Lifters for Proper Preload) |
(→Adjusting Hydraulic Lifters for Proper Preload) |
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'''2.''' Hand rotate the engine in its normal direction of rotation and watch the exhaust valve on that particular cylinder. When the exhaust valve begins to open, stop and adjust that cylinder's intake rocker arm. (Why? Because when the exhaust valve is just beginning to open, the intake lifter will be on the base circle of the lobe- the correct position for adjusting the intake.) | '''2.''' Hand rotate the engine in its normal direction of rotation and watch the exhaust valve on that particular cylinder. When the exhaust valve begins to open, stop and adjust that cylinder's intake rocker arm. (Why? Because when the exhaust valve is just beginning to open, the intake lifter will be on the base circle of the lobe- the correct position for adjusting the intake.) | ||
| − | '''3''' Back off the intake rocker arm adjuster and remove any tension from the pushrod. Wait a minute or two for that hydraulic lifter to return to a neutral position. The spring inside the lifter will move the pushrod seat up against the retaining lock if you give it time to do so. (If you are installing brand new lifters they will be in the neutral position when they come in the box.) | + | '''3.''' Back off the intake rocker arm adjuster and remove any tension from the pushrod. Wait a minute or two for that hydraulic lifter to return to a neutral position. The spring inside the lifter will move the pushrod seat up against the retaining lock if you give it time to do so. (If you are installing brand new lifters they will be in the neutral position when they come in the box.) |
'''4.''' Now spin the intake pushrod with your fingers while tightening down the rocker arm. (If you are uncertain that you are feeling the "Zero" setting, jiggling the push rod up and down will sometimes give a better sense of when all the clearance has been removed.) When you feel a slight resistance to the turning of the pushrod, you are at "Zero Lash". Turn the adjusting nut down one half to one full turn from that point. Lock the adjuster into position. The intake is now adjusted properly. | '''4.''' Now spin the intake pushrod with your fingers while tightening down the rocker arm. (If you are uncertain that you are feeling the "Zero" setting, jiggling the push rod up and down will sometimes give a better sense of when all the clearance has been removed.) When you feel a slight resistance to the turning of the pushrod, you are at "Zero Lash". Turn the adjusting nut down one half to one full turn from that point. Lock the adjuster into position. The intake is now adjusted properly. | ||
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'''6.''' Both valves on this cylinder are now adjusted, and you can move on to your next cylinder and follow the same procedure again. | '''6.''' Both valves on this cylinder are now adjusted, and you can move on to your next cylinder and follow the same procedure again. | ||
| − | Something that you also might | + | Something that you also might find useful, is go to '''[[How To Make A Timing Tape]]'''. This temporary timing tape will allow you to check and set the total timing even if you don't have a timing light that reads advance or a degreed damper. You can also use it to permanently mark the damper for full advance, etc. as you see fit. |
| − | If there's any doubt as to whether or not the timing mark on the damper and the timing tab is accurate, you can use [[Determining Top Dead Center]] to be sure of your | + | If there's any doubt as to whether or not the timing mark on the damper and the timing tab is accurate, you can use '''[[Determining Top Dead Center]]''' to be sure of your timing marks. |
[[Category:Good articles]] | [[Category:Good articles]] | ||
[[Category:Engine]] | [[Category:Engine]] | ||
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