The FREE T Bucket plans
(→Steering assembly) |
(→Bracing and mounting the body) |
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==Bracing and mounting the body== | ==Bracing and mounting the body== | ||
| − | For cleanest and simplest body mounting, weld your mounting tabs inside the frame rails at the side part of the cowl, a simple straight 1X2" full cross member at the back edge of the "door" edge bead, and the last about halfway from the "door" bead to the back of the bucket. If you have chosen to not have the framerails sticking inside the cabin with you at the back, weld a tab to the top of the kickup and form it to meet the back | + | For cleanest and simplest body mounting, weld your mounting tabs inside the frame rails at the side part of the cowl, a simple straight 1X2" full cross member at the back edge of the "door" edge bead, and the last about halfway from the "door" bead to the back of the bucket. If you have chosen to not have the framerails sticking inside the cabin with you at the back, weld a tab to the top of the kickup and form it to meet the back wall and install a bolt on each side to stabilize the back wall on these tab mounts. |
Your 3/4-1" marine plywood floor should rest directly on the frame rails on a layer of body to frame webbing or similar material to eliminate any squeaks from movement. Use minimum 3/8 bolts/nuts and large thick flat washers along with lock washers to secure your body down to the frame. After your first 50-100 miles of riding, check all fasteners for tightness. There you are, simple, secure, and solid. | Your 3/4-1" marine plywood floor should rest directly on the frame rails on a layer of body to frame webbing or similar material to eliminate any squeaks from movement. Use minimum 3/8 bolts/nuts and large thick flat washers along with lock washers to secure your body down to the frame. After your first 50-100 miles of riding, check all fasteners for tightness. There you are, simple, secure, and solid. | ||
| − | A well made '23-'25 T roadster body will not need any wooden bracing in the bucket itself unless having an opening door on the passenger side. | + | A well made '23-'25 T roadster body will not need any wooden bracing in the bucket itself unless having an opening door on the passenger side. It is important to reinforce the upper rail around the cabin. Do this before you have the floor installed as it is easier if the body is upside down. Measure your body and see how symmetrical it is. This can be done with a nice piece of 1/2" rebar formed to fit closely under the rail from the dashboard around the perimeter of the body and back to the dashboard. It is easier to do this in 2 pieces and then weld them together. Once you have a good fit mix a nice of your favorite filler and lay down a bed of it to nestle the rebar (de-rusted, epoxy-primed, and painted of course) in. Once the filler has set up, go ahead and make up some more and completely enclose the bar in a cocoon of filler all the way around. Now the upper rail of your body is solid and it is time to install the floor and fit the body to the frame. |
| − | It is important to reinforce the upper rail around the cabin. Do this before you have the floor installed as it is easier if the body is upside down. Measure your body and see how symmetrical it is. This can be done with a nice piece of 1/2" rebar formed to fit closely under the rail from the dashboard around the perimeter of the body and back to the dashboard. It is easier to do this in 2 pieces and then weld them together. Once you have a good fit mix a nice of your favorite filler and lay down a bed of it to nestle the rebar (de-rusted, epoxy-primed, and painted of course) in. Once the filler has set up, go ahead and make up some more and completely enclose the bar in a cocoon of filler all the way around. Now the upper rail of your body is solid and it is time to install the floor and fit the body to the frame. | + | |
You'll want a nice 5/8-3/4" piece of plywood cut to fit the firewall of your roadster on the inside. This gives you a nice solid mounting surface for your electrics (fuse box, relays, etc.) and accelerator pedal. | You'll want a nice 5/8-3/4" piece of plywood cut to fit the firewall of your roadster on the inside. This gives you a nice solid mounting surface for your electrics (fuse box, relays, etc.) and accelerator pedal. | ||
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You may want to run a stringer of wood just inside the lower rocker panel where the body drops over the frame as a stiffener. | You may want to run a stringer of wood just inside the lower rocker panel where the body drops over the frame as a stiffener. | ||
| − | ==Hinge fabrication== Original T door hinges work best if you can find a set at a swap meet. | + | ==Hinge fabrication== |
| + | Original T door hinges work best if you can find a set at a swap meet. | ||
| − | ==Latch installation== T bodies are not that strong and the doors should not be slammed. | + | ==Latch installation== |
| + | T bodies are not that strong and the doors should not be slammed. Hold the handle in the open position when closing the door, then a gentle push and release the handle. | ||
==Seating== | ==Seating== | ||
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