How to title a hot rod
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| − | + | ==Overview== | |
| + | How to title a hot rod, in 50 US states and various countries. [[Image:Title_california.jpg|300px|thumb]] | ||
| − | == | + | ==United States== |
===Alabama=== | ===Alabama=== | ||
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====Cars built from kits==== | ====Cars built from kits==== | ||
| − | For 1975 or newer kits that are assembled with a chassis built before 1974, you will need to provide the following documents: | + | *For 1975 or newer kits that are assembled with a chassis built before 1974, you will need to provide the following documents: |
| + | **A certified manufacturer's certificate of origin for a new kit assigned to you. | ||
| + | **A certified copy of the most recent registration receipt in the applicant's name for the chassis, or a notarized bill of sale to the applicant, specifying the purchase of the chassis. | ||
| + | **A bill of sale for each major component if purchased separately. The bill of sale needs to have the serial number and trade name of the part purchased. | ||
| + | **A notarized affidavit from the person who assembled the car stating what was done to assemble it, and certifying that it is now in operable condition. | ||
| − | * | + | *For 1975 kits assembled with 1975 or newer parts, you will need the following: |
| − | * | + | **Certified manufacturer's certificate of origin for a new kit assigned to you. |
| − | * | + | **The outstanding certificate of title in your name or assigned to you for the chassis, or the bill of sale to you for the chassis. |
| − | * A notarized affidavit from the person who assembled the car stating what was done to assemble it, and certifying that it is now in operable condition. | + | **The bill of sale for any major components purchased separately. The bill of sale needs to state the serial number and trade name of the part purchased. |
| + | **A notarized affidavit from the person who assembled the car stating what was done to assemble it, and certifying that it is now in operable condition. | ||
| − | For | + | ====Cars Built from Parts==== |
| − | * | + | *For cars built with a 1974 or earlier chassis, you will need the following documents: |
| − | * | + | ** A certified copy of the most recent registration receipt in your name for the vehicle from which the chassis was removed, or a bill of sale for the chassis. The bill of sale needs to include the VIN number of the vehicle from which the chassis was removed. |
| − | * | + | ** A bill of sale for any major components purchased separately, containing the serial number and trade name of the part. |
| − | *A notarized affidavit from the person | + | ** A notarized affidavit from the person assembling the car stating what was done to assemble the vehicle, and certifying that it is now in operable condition. |
| + | *For cars built with a 1975 or newer chassis, provide the following: | ||
| + | ** Outstanding certificate of title in your name for the vehicle from which the chassis was removed, or a notarized bill of sale in your name. This bill of sale needs to contain the VIN number of the vehicle from which the chassis was removed. | ||
| + | ** A notarized bill of sale for each major component purchased, including the serial number and trade name of each part. | ||
| + | **A notarized affidavit from the person who assembled the car stating what was done to assemble it, and certifying that it is now in operable condition. | ||
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| − | + | ===Major Components=== | |
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| − | Major Components | + | |
Remember to keep all your receipts while building your car. You'll need to provide the bill of sale showing the serial number and trade name of the part for the following components: | Remember to keep all your receipts while building your car. You'll need to provide the bill of sale showing the serial number and trade name of the part for the following components: | ||
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* Crankcase | * Crankcase | ||
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source [[www.dmv.org]] | source [[www.dmv.org]] | ||
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The Alaska DMV defines a custom built vehicle as: | The Alaska DMV defines a custom built vehicle as: | ||
| − | * " | + | * "A vehicle that has been materially altered from the original constructed vehicle by the removal, addition, or substitution of essential parts. Essential parts are considered to be the chassis, body, and engine." |
Keep in mind that replacing an engine, transmission, or any other major component does not qualify a vehicle as a custom, so you may register and title it in the usual way. | Keep in mind that replacing an engine, transmission, or any other major component does not qualify a vehicle as a custom, so you may register and title it in the usual way. | ||
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* Titling a vehicle is the process of creating legal proof of your ownership of the vehicle. Titling is usually only one time, unless you change the legal status of the vehicle by adding an owner to the title (in case of marriage, etc) or removing an owner from the title of a vehicle. Titles can also change when a loan is paid and a lien is release; and, of course, when a vehicle is bought or sold. In most cases, you have 30 days from the date of purchase to change the title on a vehicle in Alaska. | * Titling a vehicle is the process of creating legal proof of your ownership of the vehicle. Titling is usually only one time, unless you change the legal status of the vehicle by adding an owner to the title (in case of marriage, etc) or removing an owner from the title of a vehicle. Titles can also change when a loan is paid and a lien is release; and, of course, when a vehicle is bought or sold. In most cases, you have 30 days from the date of purchase to change the title on a vehicle in Alaska. | ||
| − | Registering a Custom Vehicle | + | ====Registering a Custom Vehicle==== |
The secret to an easy registration and titling process for your custom or home built vehicle is all in the paperwork. Keep every paper related to the original vehicle or vehicles, purchases of any large components, salvage certificates, junkyard receipts or any other documentation that can prove the origin of any major components. | The secret to an easy registration and titling process for your custom or home built vehicle is all in the paperwork. Keep every paper related to the original vehicle or vehicles, purchases of any large components, salvage certificates, junkyard receipts or any other documentation that can prove the origin of any major components. | ||
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* A completed and notarized Reconstructed Vehicle Affidavit, completed by the person who did the actual reconstruction of the vehicle; submit that with the other paperwork outlined above. | * A completed and notarized Reconstructed Vehicle Affidavit, completed by the person who did the actual reconstruction of the vehicle; submit that with the other paperwork outlined above. | ||
| − | + | ====Vehicle Inspections==== | |
| − | Vehicle Inspections | + | |
Vehicle inspections are conducted in order to verify the vehicle identification number, and to confirm the identity of the vehicle; this helps stop "chop shop" operations and can assist in the recovery of stolen vehicles. | Vehicle inspections are conducted in order to verify the vehicle identification number, and to confirm the identity of the vehicle; this helps stop "chop shop" operations and can assist in the recovery of stolen vehicles. | ||
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source [[www.dmv.org]] | source [[www.dmv.org]] | ||
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===Arkansas=== | ===Arkansas=== | ||
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There are three methods available to title a hot rod in Arkansas. Which one to use depends upon the vehicle, it's title history and personal preference. | There are three methods available to title a hot rod in Arkansas. Which one to use depends upon the vehicle, it's title history and personal preference. | ||
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"The new law allows for the use of non-original materials, provides for special license plates and permits the use of blue dot taillights. In addition, the measure exempts street rods and customs from a range of standard equipment requirements and emissions controls (only that equipment required in the model year that the vehicle resembles). Vehicles titled and registered as street rods and custom vehicles may only be used for occasional transportation, exhibitions, club activities, parades, tours, etc. and not for general daily transportation" | "The new law allows for the use of non-original materials, provides for special license plates and permits the use of blue dot taillights. In addition, the measure exempts street rods and customs from a range of standard equipment requirements and emissions controls (only that equipment required in the model year that the vehicle resembles). Vehicles titled and registered as street rods and custom vehicles may only be used for occasional transportation, exhibitions, club activities, parades, tours, etc. and not for general daily transportation" | ||
(SEMA SAN - SEMA Action Network Mar. 31, 2007) | (SEMA SAN - SEMA Action Network Mar. 31, 2007) | ||
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Further Documentation: | Further Documentation: | ||
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This is an easy and straightforward procedure if you get all your ducks in a row. Approach it with incomplete paperwork, bad choices of motor or illegible numbers, and you could be in for a nighmare. The above post suggests using AAA club for it, that is a good choice, and if you are unsure, you are far better having an agency do the legwork for you. | This is an easy and straightforward procedure if you get all your ducks in a row. Approach it with incomplete paperwork, bad choices of motor or illegible numbers, and you could be in for a nighmare. The above post suggests using AAA club for it, that is a good choice, and if you are unsure, you are far better having an agency do the legwork for you. | ||
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| − | Definitions from California DMV webpage: | + | '''Definitions from California DMV webpage:''' |
| − | + | ====Specially Constructed Vehicle==== | |
| − | Specially Constructed Vehicle | + | |
580. A "specially constructed vehicle" is a vehicle which is built for private use, not for resale, and is not constructed by a licensed manufacturer or remanufacturer. A specially constructed vehicle may be built from (1) a kit; (2) new or used, or a combination of new and used, parts; or (3) a vehicle reported for dismantling, as required by Section 5500 or 11520, which, when reconstructed, does not resemble the original make of the vehicle dismantled. A specially constructed vehicle is not a vehicle which has been repaired or restored to its original design by replacing parts. | 580. A "specially constructed vehicle" is a vehicle which is built for private use, not for resale, and is not constructed by a licensed manufacturer or remanufacturer. A specially constructed vehicle may be built from (1) a kit; (2) new or used, or a combination of new and used, parts; or (3) a vehicle reported for dismantling, as required by Section 5500 or 11520, which, when reconstructed, does not resemble the original make of the vehicle dismantled. A specially constructed vehicle is not a vehicle which has been repaired or restored to its original design by replacing parts. | ||
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Amended Ch. 1286, Stats. 1983. Effective January 1, 1984. | Amended Ch. 1286, Stats. 1983. Effective January 1, 1984. | ||
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Specially Constructed Vehicles- Emission Control | Specially Constructed Vehicles- Emission Control | ||
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Note: Due to the limited number of SPCNS Certificates of Sequence available, you may wish to submit your application for registration in person at a local DMV office. | Note: Due to the limited number of SPCNS Certificates of Sequence available, you may wish to submit your application for registration in person at a local DMV office. | ||
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| − | + | ====History of my car:==== | |
'27 T roadster body only. Plans call for a homemade frame, turbo'd 2.3, T5, etc. Remember, T's had the original VIN on the engine block and it's long gone. The only things I walked into DMV with were a 'bill of sale' from the previous owner, the craigslist ad where I found it, a picture of the car in my backyard, and these forms........... | '27 T roadster body only. Plans call for a homemade frame, turbo'd 2.3, T5, etc. Remember, T's had the original VIN on the engine block and it's long gone. The only things I walked into DMV with were a 'bill of sale' from the previous owner, the craigslist ad where I found it, a picture of the car in my backyard, and these forms........... | ||
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| − | + | ====Exempt Vehicles==== | |
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| − | Exempt Vehicles | + | |
There are some exemptions to the program, particularly newer models, many older vehicles, motorcycles and other specialized vehicles: | There are some exemptions to the program, particularly newer models, many older vehicles, motorcycles and other specialized vehicles: | ||
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* Applicable title fees. (Use the License Plate Rate Chart to calculate all specific charges. | * Applicable title fees. (Use the License Plate Rate Chart to calculate all specific charges. | ||
| + | ====Application for Kit Mounted on a Car Frame Previously Titled in Another State==== | ||
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You'll need: | You'll need: | ||
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* All documentation listed in items two through eight, above. | * All documentation listed in items two through eight, above. | ||
| − | + | ====Application for Kit Mounted on a Homemade Frame==== | |
| − | Application for Kit Mounted on a Homemade Frame | + | |
You'll need: | You'll need: | ||
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* All documentation listed in items two through eight, above. | * All documentation listed in items two through eight, above. | ||
| + | ====Application for Kit Mounted on a New Frame Provided by the Manufacturer==== | ||
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You'll need: | You'll need: | ||
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* All documentation listed in items 2 through 8, above. | * All documentation listed in items 2 through 8, above. | ||
| − | + | ====Title Language==== | |
| − | Title Language | + | |
When you receive your title and registration, you'll notice a few things that will be noted differently than for your regular motor vehicle: | When you receive your title and registration, you'll notice a few things that will be noted differently than for your regular motor vehicle: | ||
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===Georgia=== | ===Georgia=== | ||
In Georgia you can contact the DMV or go to their web page get a form then request that a DMV officer come out to your location and inspect the vehicle. At that time they will issue you a vin number and tag the car with that vin embossed on a metal tag. With that and the insurance go to the tag office. The form needed is T-22B I believe the cost is 50 beans | In Georgia you can contact the DMV or go to their web page get a form then request that a DMV officer come out to your location and inspect the vehicle. At that time they will issue you a vin number and tag the car with that vin embossed on a metal tag. With that and the insurance go to the tag office. The form needed is T-22B I believe the cost is 50 beans | ||
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Custom cars built in Georgia that are less than 25 years old follow the same registration, title, and tag procedures as a regular passenger vehicle. | Custom cars built in Georgia that are less than 25 years old follow the same registration, title, and tag procedures as a regular passenger vehicle. | ||
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[http://www.iowadot.gov/mvd/omve/iac400.16(321).pdf Specially Constructed/Reconstructed Equipment Application Process] | [http://www.iowadot.gov/mvd/omve/iac400.16(321).pdf Specially Constructed/Reconstructed Equipment Application Process] | ||
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'''Titling scratch built or reconstructed rods and motorcycles in Iowa''' | '''Titling scratch built or reconstructed rods and motorcycles in Iowa''' | ||
| + | Having just been through this process, here's the procedure, how it went for me,and a few tips.I built a trike,however this procedure is the same for street rods and motorcycles etc,that are built from scratch. | ||
| − | + | # Hopefully before you start your project, download the "Equipment Requirements" link above. This document lists the minimum items the inspector will be looking for when the time comes. Print out several copies, study it and know it like the back of your hand. Yes, it says your street rod has to have fenders, and in the state of Iowa it's supposed to, at least for the first inspection. Take them off later if you want. | |
| − | + | # Save all receipts and document everything as you go. Do not use a major part in your project if you do not have documentation for it. What kind of documentation?? For the engine and trans for example, you must have some sort of document that shows where these pieces came from. If you have an engine in your garage that has been sitting there for years and you have no documentation for it you have a couple choices: Don't use it, get a buddy to forge a receipt for it. Or be able to show a title to a vehicle that you got the parts from. The trail doesn't have to be real long, just somebody they can contact to verify you purchased it from somebody and have rightful ownership of the item. Ideally, if you have an OEM frame, body or portion of either, you should have a title or receipt showing where you got the item. Again, the trail doesn't have to be long, just a trail. If you scratch build a frame, be able to show where the steel came from. | |
| − | + | # Build away. Follow the rules, make it look decent, document it well, and you should fly through. Do something weird and you'd better expect to answer for it, depending on who the inspector is. Just do it right and you'll have no problems. If you have any questions, either consult with somebody who's been through the process before, or go straight to your local DMV investigator. The investigators are listed in the link above. | |
| − | + | # Once you're done, or think you're done, contact your local DMV investigator and make an appointment for your inspection. BTW, the vehicle does not have to be completed to the point of being pained and show ready. It has to be assembled and road worthy, that's it. So if you want to get the documentation done/road tested and then tear it back down for paint etc that's your choice, it does not have to be fully complete for inspection. | |
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| − | "Equipment Requirements" link above. This document lists the minimum | + | |
| − | items the inspector will be looking for when the time comes. | + | |
| − | Print out several copies, study it and know it like the back of your | + | |
| − | hand. Yes, it says your street rod has to have fenders, and in the state | + | |
| − | of Iowa it's supposed to, at least for the first inspection. | + | |
| − | later if you want. | + | |
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| − | major part in your project if you do not have documentation for it. What | + | |
| − | kind of documentation?? | + | |
| − | some sort of document that shows where these pieces came from. If you have an | + | |
| − | engine in your garage that has been sitting there for years and you have no | + | |
| − | documentation for it you have a couple choices | + | |
| − | to | + | |
| − | you got the parts from. The trail doesn't have to be real long, just somebody | + | |
| − | they can contact to verify you purchased it from somebody and have rightful | + | |
| − | ownership of the item. Ideally, if you have an OEM frame, body or portion | + | |
| − | of either, you should have a title or receipt showing where you got the item. | + | |
| − | Again, the trail doesn't have to be long, just a trail. If you scratch build | + | |
| − | a frame, be able to show where the steel came from. | + | |
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| − | should fly through. Do something weird and you'd better expect to answer for it, | + | |
| − | depending on who the inspector is. Just do it right and you'll have no problems. If | + | |
| − | you have any questions, either consult with somebody who's been through the process | + | |
| − | before, or go straight to your local DMV investigator. The investigators are listed | + | |
| − | in the link above. | + | |
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| − | make an appointment for your inspection. BTW, the vehicle does not have to be completed | + | |
| − | to the point of being pained and show ready. It has to be assembled and road worthy, that's | + | |
| − | it. So if you want to get the documentation done/road tested and then tear it back down for | + | |
| − | paint etc that's your choice, it does not have to be fully complete for inspection. | + | |
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Here's how it goes: | Here's how it goes: | ||
| − | a: You will either have to transport your vehicle(No driving it) to the DMV office, or the | + | a: You will either have to transport your vehicle(No driving it) to the DMV office, or the investigator will come to you. My person acted like it could be done either way, and she came to me, but some have said they had to go to the office. Depends on the investigator I think. Let them know that you have the above list of requirements and believe that you've met all of them. Have a printout in hand when they show up, they'll ask for it (as hard as it may be for some, remember you are in kiss-*** mode if you want your inspection to be successful). |
| − | investigator will come to you. My person acted like it could be done either way, and she came | + | |
| − | to me, but some have said they had to go to the office. Depends on the investigator I think. | + | |
| − | Let them know that you have the above list of requirements and believe that you've met all of | + | |
| − | them. Have a printout in hand when they show up, they'll ask for it | + | |
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b: The actual physical inspection. All investigators are different. Some will only give your project a cursory once-over, some will nit pick it all the way. Mine only looked to see that I had lights,horn etc, didn't even ask to see that they worked. When she started down the list of requirements and I was able to show her each of the first 3 or 4 she pretty much gave up, she knew it was a waste to check each one. I think what it comes down to is if your vehicle looks like you knew what your doing, it's safely constructed, and you won't kill somebody else the first trip around the block, the inspector isn't gonna have a problem with it. Put together something questionable and you'll be in for a battle. | b: The actual physical inspection. All investigators are different. Some will only give your project a cursory once-over, some will nit pick it all the way. Mine only looked to see that I had lights,horn etc, didn't even ask to see that they worked. When she started down the list of requirements and I was able to show her each of the first 3 or 4 she pretty much gave up, she knew it was a waste to check each one. I think what it comes down to is if your vehicle looks like you knew what your doing, it's safely constructed, and you won't kill somebody else the first trip around the block, the inspector isn't gonna have a problem with it. Put together something questionable and you'll be in for a battle. | ||
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c: Review of documentation. Again, better to show them you're on the up and up than try to hide something. If you have a 2" thick pile of documentation your gonna be better off than if you have 2 Walmart receipts. Also, they will want copies of all receipts, it's probably in your best interest to have 2 copies ready for them. Mine took them back to the office for copying and delivered them back to me the next day. Having a set of copies will save them the trip, and get you registered one day sooner. | c: Review of documentation. Again, better to show them you're on the up and up than try to hide something. If you have a 2" thick pile of documentation your gonna be better off than if you have 2 Walmart receipts. Also, they will want copies of all receipts, it's probably in your best interest to have 2 copies ready for them. Mine took them back to the office for copying and delivered them back to me the next day. Having a set of copies will save them the trip, and get you registered one day sooner. | ||
Also, your receipts will determine the taxable value of your vehicle, which determines the amount of Iowa road use tax that you will pay. You will be taxed at the state sales tax rate(5% as of 2007) on all parts you have not paid tax on. See hints below. | Also, your receipts will determine the taxable value of your vehicle, which determines the amount of Iowa road use tax that you will pay. You will be taxed at the state sales tax rate(5% as of 2007) on all parts you have not paid tax on. See hints below. | ||
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d: VIN assignment. Seems to be standard procedure that the inspector will bring the assigned VIN sticker with them and will attach it once the inspection is complete. They will also ask to stamp the new VIN somewhere in the frame. You will want a bare metal spot masked off for the stamping, or you will have to grind off a spot for it. It has to be stamped on bare steel. You can paint or clear coat the spot after. | d: VIN assignment. Seems to be standard procedure that the inspector will bring the assigned VIN sticker with them and will attach it once the inspection is complete. They will also ask to stamp the new VIN somewhere in the frame. You will want a bare metal spot masked off for the stamping, or you will have to grind off a spot for it. It has to be stamped on bare steel. You can paint or clear coat the spot after. | ||
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e: Actual registration. Once your inspection is complete, your investigator will notify your county treasurer's office with the information from your vehicle. In my case she Emailed both me and the treasurer's office right from her car before leaving my house. They will include your vehicle description, assigned VIN and the amount you owe tax on. You go to the license plate office, fill out the application for title, pay your taxes and your done. Even though it took 3 people and a review of a couple procedure manuals, it was probably the shortest trip I've had there in a long time. | e: Actual registration. Once your inspection is complete, your investigator will notify your county treasurer's office with the information from your vehicle. In my case she Emailed both me and the treasurer's office right from her car before leaving my house. They will include your vehicle description, assigned VIN and the amount you owe tax on. You go to the license plate office, fill out the application for title, pay your taxes and your done. Even though it took 3 people and a review of a couple procedure manuals, it was probably the shortest trip I've had there in a long time. | ||
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CONGRATULATIONS, YOUR DONE!!!! | CONGRATULATIONS, YOUR DONE!!!! | ||
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1. Again, remember to be on the up and up with this deal. You've probably got several thousand dollars wrapped up in this deal, not to mention many many hours of your blood sweat and tears, the last thing you want to happen is to have it all fall through at the last step. | 1. Again, remember to be on the up and up with this deal. You've probably got several thousand dollars wrapped up in this deal, not to mention many many hours of your blood sweat and tears, the last thing you want to happen is to have it all fall through at the last step. | ||
| − | Here's a fine example: I built a V8 powered trike, inspired by one that I had seen done when I was in high school 25 years ago. The original builder got caught driving it on his father's dealer plate and the local investigator found out about it. Strike one. When he finally called to have it inspected, he had almost no documentation on any of the parts, including a fair amount of Harley parts, that he had used building it. Strike | + | Here's a fine example: I built a V8 powered trike, inspired by one that I had seen done when I was in high school 25 years ago. The original builder got caught driving it on his father's dealer plate and the local investigator found out about it. Strike one. When he finally called to have it inspected, he had almost no documentation on any of the parts, including a fair amount of Harley parts, that he had used building it. Strike two. Besides all that, he pushed the requirements right to the limit, one taillight, one mirror, funky exhaust, marginal fenders etc. Having started out on the wrong foot, this was the last straw. Strike three. |
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I know where this trike is. To this day it sits, never licensed, never legally ridden on the road. It's a shame, a beautiful project that got scuttled before it was officially launched...... | I know where this trike is. To this day it sits, never licensed, never legally ridden on the road. It's a shame, a beautiful project that got scuttled before it was officially launched...... | ||
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If you buy something local, make sure you get a receipt, and make sure that there's a line on it that says "tax", if not you'll end up paying tax on it again. | If you buy something local, make sure you get a receipt, and make sure that there's a line on it that says "tax", if not you'll end up paying tax on it again. | ||
| − | 3. Do your research up front. You don't want to get all done and find out that your chopped coupe with a 4" windshield doesn't meet the requirements, the law says 6". You might sneek by, but then again you might not | + | 3. Do your research up front. You don't want to get all done and find out that your chopped coupe with a 4" windshield doesn't meet the requirements, the law says 6". You might sneek by, but then again you might not. |
| − | Hope this helps, if you have any questions please feel free to | + | Hope this helps, if you have any questions please feel free to email me: tkrause "at" cedar-rapids.net |
===Kansas=== | ===Kansas=== | ||
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In Maryland, you can get a title with no problem if you can get the signature of the last registered owner for the vehicle. Barring that I do not know the process of obtaining a title with no previous owners signature for Maryland. | In Maryland, you can get a title with no problem if you can get the signature of the last registered owner for the vehicle. Barring that I do not know the process of obtaining a title with no previous owners signature for Maryland. | ||
| − | + | ====Titling - Homemade, Two-Stage or Reconstructed Vehicle==== | |
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Explained below are the requirements for titling a “homemade” vehicle, a vehicle that was constructed by more than one | Explained below are the requirements for titling a “homemade” vehicle, a vehicle that was constructed by more than one | ||
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Reconstructed vehicle | Reconstructed vehicle | ||
Homemade motorcycle | Homemade motorcycle | ||
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| + | Fees: | ||
The fee for titling a vehicle typically includes a title fee, excise tax, and a security interest (lien) filing fee if required. | The fee for titling a vehicle typically includes a title fee, excise tax, and a security interest (lien) filing fee if required. | ||
The fee for registration varies by the type of vehicle, its weight, and/or its intended use. See Fees for Registration Plates for more information. | The fee for registration varies by the type of vehicle, its weight, and/or its intended use. See Fees for Registration Plates for more information. | ||
| Line 770: | Line 685: | ||
| − | + | ====How do I title a glider kit?==== | |
| − | How do I title a glider kit? | + | |
A glider kit consists of a truck frame, cab, front axle steering system and related accessories which are intended for assembly with an engine, | A glider kit consists of a truck frame, cab, front axle steering system and related accessories which are intended for assembly with an engine, | ||
| Line 789: | Line 703: | ||
Odometer disclosure statement - You may use the manufacturer's certificate of origin or the title to document the mileage of the vehicle. | Odometer disclosure statement - You may use the manufacturer's certificate of origin or the title to document the mileage of the vehicle. | ||
A separate odometer disclosure statement may also be submitted. | A separate odometer disclosure statement may also be submitted. | ||
| − | Application for Assigned Vehicle Identification Number - A new vehicle identification number (VIN) will be assigned to the completed vehicle. | + | Application for Assigned Vehicle Identification Number - A new vehicle identification number (VIN) will be assigned to the completed vehicle. The Maryland State Police will install the new VIN plate after they have inspected it. |
| − | + | ||
| − | + | ====How do I title a homemade trailer?==== | |
| − | How do I title a homemade trailer? | + | |
A "homemade" trailer is a trailer that is built by someone other than a licensed manufacturer. | A "homemade" trailer is a trailer that is built by someone other than a licensed manufacturer. | ||
You can apply for a title for a trailer that will carry 5,000 pounds or less in person at any of the MVA’s full service branch offices. | You can apply for a title for a trailer that will carry 5,000 pounds or less in person at any of the MVA’s full service branch offices. | ||
| − | You also can mail the documents to the MVA’s Mail In Title Unit in the Glen Burnie office, or go to an MVA licensed tag and title service | + | You also can mail the documents to the MVA’s Mail In Title Unit in the Glen Burnie office, or go to an MVA licensed tag and title service where they will assist you in applying. |
| − | where they will assist you in applying. | + | |
| − | If the trailer will carry 5,001 pounds or more, you can apply for a title in person at the Glen Burnie branch office. In either case, you | + | If the trailer will carry 5,001 pounds or more, you can apply for a title in person at the Glen Burnie branch office. In either case, you will need to submit the following documents: |
| − | will need to submit the following documents: | + | |
Proof of ownership – The ownership document must be for the vehicle frame used in building the trailer (if any): | Proof of ownership – The ownership document must be for the vehicle frame used in building the trailer (if any): | ||
| Line 809: | Line 719: | ||
If the frame is from a used vehicle, a title for the vehicle in your name or a title that has been properly assigned to you is required. | If the frame is from a used vehicle, a title for the vehicle in your name or a title that has been properly assigned to you is required. | ||
If the frame is from a salvaged vehicle, a salvage certificate in your name or a certificate that has been properly assigned to you is required. | If the frame is from a salvaged vehicle, a salvage certificate in your name or a certificate that has been properly assigned to you is required. | ||
| + | |||
Other documents that may establish ownership are: | Other documents that may establish ownership are: | ||
Registration document and bill of sale – ONLY if the state from which the frame was obtained did not issue a title (usually because of the vehicle’s age); | Registration document and bill of sale – ONLY if the state from which the frame was obtained did not issue a title (usually because of the vehicle’s age); | ||
Sales receipts. | Sales receipts. | ||
| − | Application – You may use either the back of the Maryland title, if applicable, or the Application for Certificate of Title to request the new title | + | |
| − | + | Application – You may use either the back of the Maryland title, if applicable, or the Application for Certificate of Title to request the new title (and registration, if applicable). When the Maryland title is used as the application form, complete the section entitled Application for Title and Registration. | |
| + | |||
Proof of purchase price – You must submit the bills of sale and/or receipts for all parts and labor. | Proof of purchase price – You must submit the bills of sale and/or receipts for all parts and labor. | ||
Odometer disclosure statement - Not required for a trailer. | Odometer disclosure statement - Not required for a trailer. | ||
| − | Application for Assigned Vehicle Identification Number - A new vehicle identification number (VIN) will be assigned to the completed trailer. | + | Application for Assigned Vehicle Identification Number - A new vehicle identification number (VIN) will be assigned to the completed trailer. If the trailer is rated to carry more than 5,000 pounds, the Maryland State Police (MSP) also must inspect the completed trailer, at which time |
| − | + | they will install the VIN plate. For lighter weight trailers (5,000 pounds or less), an MSP inspection is not required. However, in both cases you must submit a Maryland inspection certificate when registering the vehicle. | |
| − | they will install the VIN plate. For lighter weight trailers (5,000 pounds or less), an MSP inspection is not required. However, in both cases | + | |
| − | you must submit a Maryland inspection certificate when registering the vehicle. | + | |
Certified Statement of Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) - The statement, signed by you, must declare the maximum weight to be carried by the trailer. | Certified Statement of Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) - The statement, signed by you, must declare the maximum weight to be carried by the trailer. | ||
| − | Photographs of the trailer - Both side and rear view photographs of the trailer are required. The photos must show the full length of the trailer | + | Photographs of the trailer - Both side and rear view photographs of the trailer are required. The photos must show the full length of the trailer and include the trailer’s tongue (opposite angles), safety chains, license plate bracket, and taillights. Note that the wheels must be covered with |
| − | and include the trailer’s tongue (opposite angles), safety chains, license plate bracket, and taillights. Note that the wheels must be covered with | + | |
fenders or the body of the trailer. | fenders or the body of the trailer. | ||
| − | How do I title a kit car? | + | ====How do I title a kit car?==== |
A kit car consists of a body, steering system, frame, and related accessories intended for assembly with an excess or salvage engine, | A kit car consists of a body, steering system, frame, and related accessories intended for assembly with an excess or salvage engine, | ||
| − | transmission drive line, rear suspension, rear axle and related accessories. A kit car has the outward appearance of a Historic or Street Rod vehicle | + | transmission drive line, rear suspension, rear axle and related accessories. A kit car has the outward appearance of a Historic or Street Rod vehicle (though it is not titled as such). |
| − | + | ||
You can apply for a title in person at the Glen Burnie branch office. Typically, you will need to submit the following documents: | You can apply for a title in person at the Glen Burnie branch office. Typically, you will need to submit the following documents: | ||
Proof of ownership – The ownership document must be for the vehicle frame used in building the kit car: | Proof of ownership – The ownership document must be for the vehicle frame used in building the kit car: | ||
| − | If the frame is new (kits usually have a new frame included), the certificate of origin included with the kit is required. | + | If the frame is new (kits usually have a new frame included), the certificate of origin included with the kit is required. If the frame is from a used vehicle, a title for the vehicle in your name or a title that has been properly assigned to you is required. If the frame is from a salvaged vehicle, a salvage certificate in your name or a certificate that has been properly assigned to you is required. |
| − | If the frame is from a used vehicle, a title for the vehicle in your name or a title that has been properly assigned to you is required. | + | |
| − | If the frame is from a salvaged vehicle, a salvage certificate in your name or a certificate that has been properly assigned to you is required. | + | |
Other documents that may establish ownership are: | Other documents that may establish ownership are: | ||
Registration document and bill of sale – ONLY if the state from which the frame was obtained did not issue a title (usually because of the vehicle’s age). | Registration document and bill of sale – ONLY if the state from which the frame was obtained did not issue a title (usually because of the vehicle’s age). | ||
| − | Sales receipts | + | |
| − | Application – You may use either the back of the Maryland title, if applicable, or the Application for Certificate of Title to request the new title | + | Sales receipts Application – You may use either the back of the Maryland title, if applicable, or the Application for Certificate of Title to request the new title (and registration, if applicable). When the Maryland title is used as the application form, complete the section entitled Application for Title and Registration. |
| − | (and registration, if applicable). When the Maryland title is used as the application form, complete the section entitled Application for Title and Registration. | + | |
Proof of purchase price – You must submit the bills of sale and/or receipts for all parts and labor. | Proof of purchase price – You must submit the bills of sale and/or receipts for all parts and labor. | ||
| − | Odometer disclosure statement - You may use the manufacturer’s certificate of origin or the title to document the mileage of the vehicle. | + | Odometer disclosure statement - You may use the manufacturer’s certificate of origin or the title to document the mileage of the vehicle. A separate odometer disclosure statement may also be submitted. Usually the mileage is “0” unless the frame was taken from a used/salvaged vehicle |
| − | + | ||
| − | + | ||
| − | + | ||
| + | Application for Assigned Vehicle Identification Number (if applicable) - A new vehicle identification number (VIN) may be assigned to the completed vehicle. The Maryland State Police will install the new VIN plate after they have inspected it. | ||
| − | How do I title a kit trailer? | + | |
| + | ====How do I title a kit trailer?==== | ||
A kit trailer is a trailer that is assembled from a kit by someone other than a licensed manufacturer. | A kit trailer is a trailer that is assembled from a kit by someone other than a licensed manufacturer. | ||
You can apply for a title at any of the MVA’s full service branch offices. You also can mail the documents to the MVA’s Mail | You can apply for a title at any of the MVA’s full service branch offices. You also can mail the documents to the MVA’s Mail | ||
| − | In Title Unit in the Glen Burnie office, or go to an MVA licensed tag and title service where they will assist you in applying. | + | In Title Unit in the Glen Burnie office, or go to an MVA licensed tag and title service where they will assist you in applying. Typically, you will need to submit the following documents: |
| − | + | ||
Proof of ownership – Since the frame is new, the certificate of origin included with the kit is required. | Proof of ownership – Since the frame is new, the certificate of origin included with the kit is required. | ||
| + | |||
Application – The Application for Certificate of Title must be submitted to request the new title (and registration, if applicable). | Application – The Application for Certificate of Title must be submitted to request the new title (and registration, if applicable). | ||
| + | |||
Proof of purchase price – You must submit the bills of sale and/or receipts for all parts and labor. | Proof of purchase price – You must submit the bills of sale and/or receipts for all parts and labor. | ||
Odometer disclosure statement - Not required for a trailer. | Odometer disclosure statement - Not required for a trailer. | ||
| − | |||
| − | |||
| + | Maryland safety inspection certificate - A safety inspection is required if the vehicle is being registered at the same time and the kit was assembled by someone other than an authorized trailer dealer (most cases). | ||
| − | How do I title a two-stage vehicle? | + | ====How do I title a two-stage vehicle?==== |
| − | A two-stage vehicle is a vehicle that has been built by two separate manufacturers. The result is a standard, complete vehicle capable of performing | + | A two-stage vehicle is a vehicle that has been built by two separate manufacturers. The result is a standard, complete vehicle capable of performing its intended function. You can apply for a title at any of the MVA’s full service branch offices. You also can mail the documents to the MVA’s Mail In Title Unit in the Glen Burnie office, or go to an MVA licensed tag and title service where they will assist you in applying. Typically, you will need to submit the following documents: |
| − | its intended function. | + | |
| − | + | ||
| − | You can apply for a title at any of the MVA’s full service branch offices. You also can mail the documents to the MVA’s Mail In Title Unit in the | + | |
| − | Glen Burnie office, or go to an MVA licensed tag and title service where they will assist you in applying. | + | |
Proof of ownership – The certificates of origin from both the first and second stage manufacturers are required. | Proof of ownership – The certificates of origin from both the first and second stage manufacturers are required. | ||
| + | |||
Application – The Application for Certificate of Title must be submitted to request the new title (and registration, if applicable). | Application – The Application for Certificate of Title must be submitted to request the new title (and registration, if applicable). | ||
| + | |||
Proof of purchase price – You must submit the bills of sale and/or receipts for all parts and labor. | Proof of purchase price – You must submit the bills of sale and/or receipts for all parts and labor. | ||
| + | |||
Odometer disclosure statement - The odometer reading will be certified on the certificate of origin or you may submit a separate odometer disclosure statement. | Odometer disclosure statement - The odometer reading will be certified on the certificate of origin or you may submit a separate odometer disclosure statement. | ||
| − | |||
| + | Contract from a board of education - This is needed for titling a school bus only. It certifies that your vehicle has been approved for use as a school bus. | ||
| − | How do I title a reconstructed vehicle? | + | ====How do I title a reconstructed vehicle?==== |
A reconstructed vehicle is a vehicle that is created by the unique alteration of a standard vehicle, by someone other than the manufacturer. | A reconstructed vehicle is a vehicle that is created by the unique alteration of a standard vehicle, by someone other than the manufacturer. | ||
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If the frame is from a used vehicle, a title for the vehicle in your name or a title that has been properly assigned to you is required. | If the frame is from a used vehicle, a title for the vehicle in your name or a title that has been properly assigned to you is required. | ||
If the frame is from a salvaged vehicle, a salvage certificate in your name or a certificate that has been properly assigned to you is required. | If the frame is from a salvaged vehicle, a salvage certificate in your name or a certificate that has been properly assigned to you is required. | ||
| + | |||
Other documents that may establish ownership are: | Other documents that may establish ownership are: | ||
Registration document and bill of sale – ONLY if the state from which the frame was obtained did not issue a title (usually because of the vehicle’s age). | Registration document and bill of sale – ONLY if the state from which the frame was obtained did not issue a title (usually because of the vehicle’s age). | ||
| − | Application – You may use either the back of the Maryland title, if applicable, or the Application for Certificate of Title to request the new title | + | |
| − | + | Application – You may use either the back of the Maryland title, if applicable, or the Application for Certificate of Title to request the new title (and registration, if applicable). When the Maryland title is used as the application form, complete the section entitled Application for Title and Registration. | |
| + | |||
Proof of purchase price – You must submit the bills of sale and/or receipts for all parts and labor. | Proof of purchase price – You must submit the bills of sale and/or receipts for all parts and labor. | ||
| − | |||
| − | |||
| − | |||
| − | |||
| + | Odometer disclosure statement - You may use the manufacturer’s certificate of origin or the title to document the mileage of the vehicle. A separate odometer disclosure statement may also be submitted. | ||
| − | How do I title a homemade motorcycle? | + | Application for Assigned Vehicle Identification Number (if applicable) - A new vehicle identification number (VIN) may be assigned to the completed vehicle. The Maryland State Police will install the new VIN plate after they have inspected it. |
| + | |||
| + | |||
| + | ====How do I title a homemade motorcycle?==== | ||
A “homemade” motorcycle is a motorcycle that is assembled from new and/or used parts by someone other than a licensed manufacturer. | A “homemade” motorcycle is a motorcycle that is assembled from new and/or used parts by someone other than a licensed manufacturer. | ||
| Line 911: | Line 819: | ||
Proof of ownership – Proof of ownership is required for the frame, engine and transmission used in building the motorcycle: | Proof of ownership – Proof of ownership is required for the frame, engine and transmission used in building the motorcycle: | ||
| − | If the frame, engine and/or transmission is new, the manufacturer's certificate of origin is required. | + | |
| − | If the frame is from a used vehicle, a title for the vehicle in your name or a title that has been properly assigned to you is required. | + | *If the frame, engine and/or transmission is new, the manufacturer's certificate of origin is required. |
| − | If the frame is from a salvaged vehicle, a salvage certificate in your name or a certificate that has been properly assigned to you is required. | + | *If the frame is from a used vehicle, a title for the vehicle in your name or a title that has been properly assigned to you is required. |
| + | *If the frame is from a salvaged vehicle, a salvage certificate in your name or a certificate that has been properly assigned to you is required. | ||
| + | |||
Other documents that may establish ownership are: | Other documents that may establish ownership are: | ||
Registration document and bill of sale – ONLY if the state from which the frame was obtained did not issue a title (usually because of the vehicle’s age). | Registration document and bill of sale – ONLY if the state from which the frame was obtained did not issue a title (usually because of the vehicle’s age). | ||
| − | Application – You may use either the back of the Maryland title or the Application for Certificate of Title to request the new title (and registration, if applicable). | + | |
| − | + | Application – You may use either the back of the Maryland title or the Application for Certificate of Title to request the new title (and registration, if applicable). When the Maryland title is used as the application form, complete the section entitled Application for Title and Registration. | |
| − | Proof of purchase price – You must submit the bills of sale and/or receipts for all parts and labor. The MVA may require that your proof of purchase | + | |
| − | documents be notarized. | + | Proof of purchase price – You must submit the bills of sale and/or receipts for all parts and labor. The MVA may require that your proof of purchase documents be notarized. |
| − | Odometer disclosure statement - You may use the manufacturer’s certificate of origin or the title to document the mileage of the vehicle. A separate odometer | + | |
| − | + | Odometer disclosure statement - You may use the manufacturer’s certificate of origin or the title to document the mileage of the vehicle. A separate odometer disclosure statement may also be submitted. | |
| − | Application for Assigned Vehicle Identification Number (if applicable) - A new vehicle identification number (VIN) may be assigned to the completed motorcycle. | + | |
| − | + | Application for Assigned Vehicle Identification Number (if applicable) - A new vehicle identification number (VIN) may be assigned to the completed motorcycle. The Maryland State Police will install the new VIN plate after they have inspected it. | |
| + | |||
Motorcycle Equipment Certification - You must certify that the motor has a rating of more than 1.5 brake horsepower and a motor capacity of at least 49cc. | Motorcycle Equipment Certification - You must certify that the motor has a rating of more than 1.5 brake horsepower and a motor capacity of at least 49cc. | ||
| − | For all titling a Maryland safety inspection certificate - A safety inspection is required if the vehicle is being registered at the same time (most cases). | + | For all titling a Maryland safety inspection certificate - A safety inspection is required if the vehicle is being registered at the same time (most cases). Your title will be mailed to you. If you also register the vehicle (most cases), your registration card, license plates and expiration date stickers can be provided immediately when you apply in person to the MVA; otherwise, these items also will be mailed to you. |
| − | Your title will be mailed to you. If you also register the vehicle (most cases), your registration card, license plates and expiration date stickers can be provided | + | |
| − | immediately when you apply in person to the MVA; otherwise, these items also will be mailed to you. | + | |
===Massachusetts=== | ===Massachusetts=== | ||
| − | Went to the RMV to inquire about registering my old car I have had for forty years. This is what they gave me at the Yarmouth RMV | + | Went to the RMV to inquire about registering my old car I have had for forty years. This is what they gave me at the Yarmouth RMV: |
| − | + | ||
====Purchasing an undocumented vehicle==== | ====Purchasing an undocumented vehicle==== | ||
| Line 992: | Line 900: | ||
===Montana=== | ===Montana=== | ||
| − | + | ||
| + | ====Titling a Vehicle with No VIN Number or Title (Homemade Hot Rod)==== | ||
This example is based on my experience trying to title a vehicle that comprised of an old body with no VIN numbers on it, mounted to a custom-made frame with no VIN numbers on it. This article is a stub, as I am in the middle of the procedure. As harrowing as dealing with the DMV can be, try to be patient - this particular request is not common in the State of Montana, as I have found out. | This example is based on my experience trying to title a vehicle that comprised of an old body with no VIN numbers on it, mounted to a custom-made frame with no VIN numbers on it. This article is a stub, as I am in the middle of the procedure. As harrowing as dealing with the DMV can be, try to be patient - this particular request is not common in the State of Montana, as I have found out. | ||
| Line 1,119: | Line 1,028: | ||
They don't seem to be very strict about modifications, and titles and licenses are handled by private subcontractors, who have no incentive to obstruct you. If you change the number of doors or something, you will have to modify the title. I don't know the procedure on that. There is no space for color, for example, and even school buses and campers are registered and insured as trucks. Real RV's may be different. | They don't seem to be very strict about modifications, and titles and licenses are handled by private subcontractors, who have no incentive to obstruct you. If you change the number of doors or something, you will have to modify the title. I don't know the procedure on that. There is no space for color, for example, and even school buses and campers are registered and insured as trucks. Real RV's may be different. | ||
| − | Update. I did go down an talked to the State Police June 08, with an out of state bill of sale. They want to see the actual vehicle, which means trailering it down to them. They will inspect it, assign a VIN Number and allow you to seek a Surety Bond, if you can find an insurance company to do that. | + | '''Update'''. I did go down an talked to the State Police June 08, with an out of state bill of sale. They want to see the actual vehicle, which means trailering it down to them. They will inspect it, assign a VIN Number and allow you to seek a Surety Bond, if you can find an insurance company to do that. |
Here is the link to NC DOT: http://www.ncdot.org/dmv/vehicle_services/registrationtitling/howToRegister.html | Here is the link to NC DOT: http://www.ncdot.org/dmv/vehicle_services/registrationtitling/howToRegister.html | ||
| Line 1,163: | Line 1,072: | ||
To title a vehicle with no title you can go to the DMV and they will do a title search. If nothing comes up then there is a packet they will give you to complete. This includes a further national search to determine if the vehicle has been stolen. You then plead your case before a judge and he makes a determination. You take his judgment back to the DMV and they issue you a title for you vehicle in your name. This is a model year title that is the same as if you had an original that was transferred to you. I got a title for a '48 International this way. Total cost was about $40 (in 2008). I never even saw the judge, his assistant took my information to him and brought it back signed. I had a bill of sale from who I got the truck from and pictures of the truck to show the current condition(needing restoration). | To title a vehicle with no title you can go to the DMV and they will do a title search. If nothing comes up then there is a packet they will give you to complete. This includes a further national search to determine if the vehicle has been stolen. You then plead your case before a judge and he makes a determination. You take his judgment back to the DMV and they issue you a title for you vehicle in your name. This is a model year title that is the same as if you had an original that was transferred to you. I got a title for a '48 International this way. Total cost was about $40 (in 2008). I never even saw the judge, his assistant took my information to him and brought it back signed. I had a bill of sale from who I got the truck from and pictures of the truck to show the current condition(needing restoration). | ||
| − | |||
| − | |||
Ohio Year Of Manufacture Plates (as of Jan 2009) | Ohio Year Of Manufacture Plates (as of Jan 2009) | ||
http://bmv.ohio.gov/vehicle_registration/historical_model_year.htm | http://bmv.ohio.gov/vehicle_registration/historical_model_year.htm | ||
| − | + | http://bmv.ohio.gov/vehicle_registration/historical.htm | |
| − | + | ||
| Line 1,342: | Line 1,248: | ||
===Oklahoma=== | ===Oklahoma=== | ||
| − | In Oklahoma it is not hard to title a HotRod, you must save all receipts for major components and body parts and pieces and if donor car,the previous paper work notarized bill of sale. If you buy something from a salvage yard,you need part numbers on the bill of sale and what they came out of with salvage yard receipt. When done with construction and safe for road,take photos of all sides of the vehicle and copies of the receipts with total spent,and proof of car insurance,you have to a TAG Agency (license plate agency),fill out all the paperwork(you tell them what yr it represents) and pay the registration fee and they mail it in for you.3-4 weeks later the state will send them or you a | + | In Oklahoma it is not hard to title a HotRod, you must save all receipts for major components and body parts and pieces and if donor car,the previous paper work notarized bill of sale. If you buy something from a salvage yard,you need part numbers on the bill of sale and what they came out of with salvage yard receipt. When done with construction and safe for road,take photos of all sides of the vehicle and copies of the receipts with total spent,and proof of car insurance,you have to a TAG Agency (license plate agency),fill out all the paperwork(you tell them what yr it represents) and pay the registration fee and they mail it in for you.3-4 weeks later the state will send them or you a VIN that you have to have stamped into the frame on the drivers side, and after that you have to drive it to a Tag Agency for inspection (not bad) and you pay the tag,tax and present year registration and you get a license tag and a title follows later in the mail. (go on a slow day, to get papers filled out) It worked for me in 2007. GOOD LUCK |
===Oregon=== | ===Oregon=== | ||
| Line 1,348: | Line 1,254: | ||
Getting a Title in Oregon is not too difficult, If everything is in order,, KEEP all your receipts,,if you are building the car from the ground up,, if you have No documentation for ownership of the car , you need these receipts, They will check places where VIN are hidden by the factory,, on the frame,, [actually Chevrolet didn't have VIN until 1950, but used a thin piece of metal with a series number placed under the drivers floor carpet,, first thing to rot away,,] if no numbers are visible, they will check to make sure that the frame is original to the vehicle, [ not after market] if its aftermarket,, you need a receipt, same with a aftermarket body,, Receipt,, point of origin, bill of sale, then they will enter this information into their computer base and if its clear,, you will be issued a form to take to DMV to get a sticker with a new VIN, then you need to stamp those numbers somewhere on the frame, so if the vehicle is ever stolen,, you can identify where its stamped so they will know where to look, even if the numbers are ground off, they can still find them , | Getting a Title in Oregon is not too difficult, If everything is in order,, KEEP all your receipts,,if you are building the car from the ground up,, if you have No documentation for ownership of the car , you need these receipts, They will check places where VIN are hidden by the factory,, on the frame,, [actually Chevrolet didn't have VIN until 1950, but used a thin piece of metal with a series number placed under the drivers floor carpet,, first thing to rot away,,] if no numbers are visible, they will check to make sure that the frame is original to the vehicle, [ not after market] if its aftermarket,, you need a receipt, same with a aftermarket body,, Receipt,, point of origin, bill of sale, then they will enter this information into their computer base and if its clear,, you will be issued a form to take to DMV to get a sticker with a new VIN, then you need to stamp those numbers somewhere on the frame, so if the vehicle is ever stolen,, you can identify where its stamped so they will know where to look, even if the numbers are ground off, they can still find them , | ||
| − | If you are trying to register a car from another state,, they just look for the | + | If you are trying to register a car from another state,, they just look for the VIN number and verify it with the title you are presenting, they do a much better search of these numbers. |
| − | UPDATE: According to who you have to deal with at a DMV | + | UPDATE: According to who you have to deal with at a DMV, getting past them can be a real difficult. |
| − | After getting the OK from the state Police who issued the certificate for a VIN number, I went to the DMV | + | After getting the OK from the state Police who issued the certificate for a VIN number, I went to the DMV, expecting a normal transaction, they handed me 5 pages of forms to fill out, wanting to know how I came to own the car, all the receipts, pictures. I Did that, then back to the DMV, got a different person. 3 more pages of forms, did that... then They wanted copies of EVERY receipt I had, probably 500 pages. Finally after some talking, I convinced the guy that the state Police had already seen all these receipts and that if its good enough for them it should be good enough for the DMV, so he settled for copies of the major components: engine, tranny, rear end, etc etc, then he issued a VIN sticker. And you have to have the car there so THEY can apply the sticker. Then they issue you a 90 day trip permit so a special committee can review everything, but I don't expect a problem from them. Now that it has started to rain, at least it can be driven. The whole idea is to document the car as much as possible, like photos of the build process. Keep EVERY Receipt you get. Remember they are there to make sure this vehicle isn't stolen and they will do everything to find out if it is. |
More info: | More info: | ||
| − | In Oregon vehicles were titled by engine number until 1955, then the vehicle was assigned a VIN | + | In Oregon vehicles were titled by engine number until 1955, then the vehicle was assigned a VIN to frame and body. The change was made due to motors being changed as they wore out. All vehicles made prior to 1955 are very easy to obtain a title for. Simply produce a Bill Of Sale or a title to vehicle with a VIN inspection done by Oregon State Police or any law enforcement officer or a DMV investigator and a 550 form (obtained at DMV). All these are taken to the DMV and a VIN will be assigned. |
===Pennsylvania=== | ===Pennsylvania=== | ||
| Line 1,362: | Line 1,268: | ||
In Pennsylvania, in order to register and title a HOT ROD first the vehicle must be 1948 or older. No vehicles 1949 or newer can be registered as HOT RODS. | In Pennsylvania, in order to register and title a HOT ROD first the vehicle must be 1948 or older. No vehicles 1949 or newer can be registered as HOT RODS. | ||
| + | You may be able to title your ride as a '''"collectible"'''. There are a few reasons why and I will try to explain here. | ||
| − | + | You cannot title a kit as a collectable. You must have a title and VIN tag (or copy of said tag) for the vehicle. The title and VIN must match. There is one stipulation in Pennsylvania. You cannot apply for a title or plate if the title has been considered "SCRAP" or "SCRAP" has been written on the title anywhere. | |
| − | + | ||
| − | + | ||
| − | You cannot | + | |
RULES REGARDING THE COLLECTIBLE PLATE: | RULES REGARDING THE COLLECTIBLE PLATE: | ||
| − | (1) | + | (1) A collectible is a vehicle that can be driven like any street vehicle but it is covered by state inspection laws regarding (a) the year and make (b) the engine (emissions exemption). If the engine was produced prior to the emissions laws, it will require no CATS, EGR or PCV system. |
| − | (2) This is a one time (life of the vehicle) fee and you receive a BLACK and GOLD License Plate. (Way Kool.) This plate remains with the | + | EXAMPLE: If you install a 1994 351 EFI Windsor, you will be required to have the computer, the cats, EGR etc.etc. Your ride will require an emission (exempt) sticker and a safety sticker that applies to the period of the vehicle. |
| + | (2) This is a one time (life of the vehicle) fee and you receive a BLACK and GOLD License Plate. (Way Kool.) This plate remains with the owner and may be used on any qualified collectible vehicle at a fee of $75.00 per vehicle (one time). There is a family clause that allows the plate to be transferred inside the family circle. There is a $22.50 fee, plus a $6.00 fee for this transfer. | ||
MAKING PLATE APPLICATION: | MAKING PLATE APPLICATION: | ||
| Line 1,380: | Line 1,285: | ||
Remember, in PA. the TITLE of CERTIFICATE is the (MV-4) certificate. | Remember, in PA. the TITLE of CERTIFICATE is the (MV-4) certificate. | ||
| − | Now here is where it gets sticky...You must submit 6 photos of the vehicle at time of | + | Now here is where it gets sticky...You must submit 6 photos of the vehicle at time of plate registration (even at time of title transfer). One photo from each side, one from rear and one from front. You also should submit one photo of the engine compartment and one of the exhaust system! That is correct, rack the vehicle and take a shot of that exhaust. I suggest you take a photo of the engine codes and markings. If your vehicle is "low-slung" (dropped axle) you also should document the steering, brakes and road clearances. All this information will help you obtain a collectible plate for your ride. This information will be submitted along with your application for a plate. You could wait up to 8 weeks for an answer, and even then PENNDOT may require more documentation. It can be a real nightmare. |
| − | NOTE: When applying for | + | NOTE: When applying for collectible plates alone, you must have your "R" title brand certificate (reconstruction), at time of application. You will fill out an MV-11 form for this application. There is an MV-426B Form that allows you to obtain a title and plates when you have a ''non'' "R" rated title or a '''salvage certificate''' (I don't think you want to go here). |
| − | ''ANTIQUE, CLASSIC and MODIFIED | + | ''ANTIQUE, CLASSIC and MODIFIED titles and plate information is not covered here.'' |
===Rhode Island=== | ===Rhode Island=== | ||
| Line 1,392: | Line 1,297: | ||
===South Carolina=== | ===South Carolina=== | ||
In order to title this 'rebuilt' vehicle, you will need the following: | In order to title this 'rebuilt' vehicle, you will need the following: | ||
| − | |||
| − | |||
Surrender any previous titles , | Surrender any previous titles , | ||
| Line 1,404: | Line 1,307: | ||
Pay fees ($15 title, $24 registration/license | Pay fees ($15 title, $24 registration/license | ||
Some vehicles of course will not need to get a special serial number, | Some vehicles of course will not need to get a special serial number, | ||
| − | because you have a valid previous title and | + | because you have a valid previous title and VIN. |
===South Dakota=== | ===South Dakota=== | ||
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In-state Custom Vehicles | In-state Custom Vehicles | ||
If you custom-built the car in Tennessee, you'll need to take the following steps in order to get your vehicle registered: | If you custom-built the car in Tennessee, you'll need to take the following steps in order to get your vehicle registered: | ||
| − | |||
| − | |||
Visit the local county clerk's office to apply for a Reconstructed Title. You'll need to take your car's documentation with you, including all receipts for parts, whether used or new. | Visit the local county clerk's office to apply for a Reconstructed Title. You'll need to take your car's documentation with you, including all receipts for parts, whether used or new. | ||
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===Texas=== | ===Texas=== | ||
| − | Texas Bonded Title Info | + | ====Texas Bonded Title Info==== |
I may miss a step or 2 but the process goes something like this if it hasn't been titled in the last 16 years,, which is how far back the state's records are kept. | I may miss a step or 2 but the process goes something like this if it hasn't been titled in the last 16 years,, which is how far back the state's records are kept. | ||
| − | You'll need a bill of sale and the following forms from the state | + | You'll need a bill of sale and the following forms from the state: |
| − | VTR-275 Request for Texas Motor Vehicle Information | + | *VTR-275 Request for Texas Motor Vehicle Information |
| + | *VTR-301 Request for Pencil Tracing of Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) | ||
| + | *VTR-34-F Certified Copy of Title Fact Sheet | ||
| + | *VTR-130-SOF Statement of Fact | ||
| + | *VTR-131 Request to Issue Negotiable Certificate of Title Without Registration (Title Only) | ||
| − | + | VTR-275, Fill this one out and mail it in with the fee of $2.30. This starts the title search with the state, if it hasn't been titled in the last 16 years you will receive a rejection letter. | |
| − | + | ||
| − | + | ||
| − | + | ||
| − | + | ||
| − | + | ||
| − | + | ||
| − | + | ||
| − | VTR-275, Fill this one out and mail it in with the fee of $2.30. | + | |
| − | This starts the title search with the state, if it hasn't been titled in the last 16 years you will receive a rejection letter. | + | |
It is no longer necessary to have the vehicle appraised by a dealer or other appraiser, unless the State of Texas is unable to determine a value (which certainly could be the case for a hot rod.) From the [http://www.txdmv.gov/vehicles/titles/bonded.htm Texas DMV Bonded Title page]: | It is no longer necessary to have the vehicle appraised by a dealer or other appraiser, unless the State of Texas is unable to determine a value (which certainly could be the case for a hot rod.) From the [http://www.txdmv.gov/vehicles/titles/bonded.htm Texas DMV Bonded Title page]: | ||
"The Standard Presumptive Value (SPV) from our Web site (www.TxDMV.gov) as the primary source | "The Standard Presumptive Value (SPV) from our Web site (www.TxDMV.gov) as the primary source | ||
| − | If a SPV is not available, a national reference guide, National Auto Dealers Association (NADA) will be used | + | If a SPV is not available, a national reference guide, National Auto Dealers Association (NADA) will be used. If a value is not available either through SPV or NADA, a licensed motor vehicle dealer or insurance adjuster may appraise the vehicle on a form provided by VTR." |
| − | If a value is not available either through SPV or NADA, a licensed motor vehicle dealer or insurance adjuster may appraise the vehicle on a form provided by VTR." | + | |
| − | Accompanying the rejection letter from the Texas Dept. of Transportation is | + | Accompanying the rejection letter from the Texas Dept. of Transportation is an Insurance company list where you will go and purchase a surety bond. The fee is 1.5% of the value of the vehicle. |
| − | an Insurance company list where you will go and purchase a surety bond. | + | |
| − | The fee is 1.5% of the value of the vehicle. | + | |
Fill out form 130, Statement of Fact, then along with all the other paperwork | Fill out form 130, Statement of Fact, then along with all the other paperwork | ||
gathered from the above sequence, take it to your county tax office, and in turn they provide you with the bonded title. The bonded title is for 3 years; at the end of the 3rd year you can exchange the bonded title for a permanent one. | gathered from the above sequence, take it to your county tax office, and in turn they provide you with the bonded title. The bonded title is for 3 years; at the end of the 3rd year you can exchange the bonded title for a permanent one. | ||
| − | Texas Vehicle Title and Registration FAQs And Popular Related Links | + | ====Texas Vehicle Title and Registration FAQs And Popular Related Links==== |
[http://www.txdot.gov/txdot_library/drivers_vehicles/forms/default.htm Texas Vehicle Title and Registration Forms] | [http://www.txdot.gov/txdot_library/drivers_vehicles/forms/default.htm Texas Vehicle Title and Registration Forms] | ||
| Line 1,476: | Line 1,369: | ||
Lawrence Auto Title: Commercial Bonded Title Business http://www.lawrenceautotitle.com/continue.htm | Lawrence Auto Title: Commercial Bonded Title Business http://www.lawrenceautotitle.com/continue.htm | ||
| + | You can take the easy way out: Buy a title. Ads in some rodding magazines advertise titles for sale. These titles are from cars that have been scrapped. You can get just about any year and make you want. I bought a 1923 Ford title for my bucket. Take it to the DMV and turn it in and get a Texas title in your name, just like you would if you had bought any car with an out-of-state title. You will have to declare how much you paid for the "car" you bought and pay the sales tax. I paid $125 for the old title and so that's what I said. I wouldn't venture the fact that all you bought was a title. I honestly don't know if this is exactly legal, but it is a common practice. | ||
| + | |||
| + | And if your car is 25 or more years old, you can get an "antique" license plate. These are good for 5 years, cost is $70.00 and that is only if you say you bought the car for $1.00. I paid .06 cent on that dollar for sales tax so what ever you say that you buy it for you will pay $0.06 on the dollar for it on sales tax over the $70.00. Your car doesn't have to have safety inspections. Per the law, your antique car is only to be driven to/from a show, or to have work done. But I've never been stopped in 15 years, and you could always say you were going for an oil change or alignment, etc. | ||
| + | |||
| + | The last option you have is if your vehicle has NO VIN at all. This means no data plate, no frame number, or no original engine number. From what I have been told by the DPS up to 1954 all vehicles were registered with the motor number. GM vehicles did not have frame numbers until 1949, Ford had frames numbers from 1932. This also covers assembled vehicles using a manufactured prefabricated body. | ||
| − | + | For vehicles with no VIN number first go to your local DMV where you normally get your plates. Ask for a Form VTR-68-A Application for assigned or reassigned number. Ask them which law enforcement you need to call to have them come by and inspect the vehicle. The local Anti-Auto Theft Task Force is the normal ones that come out. They will inspect the vehicle and ask you a few simple questions, show them the bill of sale with the PO's name and address. Make sure they check the right boxes. The ones you want checked say, Vehicle assembled from parts for which no ID number was ever affixed to body. And the other says, Unable to determine the true manufacturers number. If they check the box that says, Number assigned by manufacturer for ID purposes has been removed, changed or obliterated, you will have to take a form letter to a judge and prove ownership of the vehicle. | |
| − | + | Now once you have that done take the paperwork and your vehicle to a regional DMV/DOT office. They may tell you that you don't have to take the vehicle but take it anyway, if there are any problems they can call and have another inspector come over and take care of them on the spot. Once there you'll have to fill out a Form VTR-61 Rebuilt Affidavit. On that you will explain all the modifications done on the vehicle. Make sure you have the name and address of your suppliers, ie engine, body, frame, trans etc, with bills of sale. Then they will assign a VIN number to the vehicle. Cost $2.00. On your way home stop by a public scale and get a weight slip, you'll need it later. | |
| − | |||
| − | |||
| − | |||
Now to get your title and plates take the Form VTR-61,a pencil tracing of the motor number, the Form VTR-68-N Notice of Assigned Number(from the regional office), copy of Form 68-A, photo of vehicle, Form VTR-470 green slip from safety inspection station, weight slip, original bill of sale and proof of insurance to your local DMV office and they will then issue you your title and plates after you pay the taxes and fees. | Now to get your title and plates take the Form VTR-61,a pencil tracing of the motor number, the Form VTR-68-N Notice of Assigned Number(from the regional office), copy of Form 68-A, photo of vehicle, Form VTR-470 green slip from safety inspection station, weight slip, original bill of sale and proof of insurance to your local DMV office and they will then issue you your title and plates after you pay the taxes and fees. | ||
Go online, print out the application for antique plates and fill it out. Go to the DMV or county with this form, your driver's license and insurance for the vehicle. You're done... | Go online, print out the application for antique plates and fill it out. Go to the DMV or county with this form, your driver's license and insurance for the vehicle. You're done... | ||
| − | *Short cut on older vehicles when | + | *Short cut on older vehicles when VIN was the engine number only. Take your purchased title, or New York registration, etc. to the DMV (or auto title company) and ask for "title transfer only". (It is purchasing the plates that triggers most of the above.) In a few weeks you will receive your new Texas title. Now go buy the plates. No questions asked, no inspections necessary. Get a vehicle ID plate engraved with the number on the title and attach it to the firewall. Go get a state inspection. |
===Utah=== | ===Utah=== | ||
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===Virginia=== | ===Virginia=== | ||
| − | This is the list of “stuff” you need to send to the Virginia DMV to title a Replica Motor Vehicle, assuming that you have a Manufacturer’s Certificate of Origin (MSO), and no VIN | + | This is the list of “stuff” you need to send to the Virginia DMV to title a Replica Motor Vehicle, assuming that you have a Manufacturer’s Certificate of Origin (MSO), and no VIN (What they call a "kit car"). |
Virginia Form VSA 22, Application for Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) | Virginia Form VSA 22, Application for Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) | ||
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It looks like you submit all of the same stuff even if you have a title. Just don't send in the VIN application. | It looks like you submit all of the same stuff even if you have a title. Just don't send in the VIN application. | ||
| − | + | '''Disclaimer:''' | |
| − | Disclaimer: | + | |
Don’t depend on the customer service line to give you accurate information. | Don’t depend on the customer service line to give you accurate information. | ||
| − | |||
The definition of replica vehicles is here: | The definition of replica vehicles is here: | ||
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In West Virginia, registering your custom-built car can be the same as registering any other vehicle, or it can be a much more tedious process―it all depends on where the car was built. | In West Virginia, registering your custom-built car can be the same as registering any other vehicle, or it can be a much more tedious process―it all depends on where the car was built. | ||
| − | Built out of State | + | |
| + | ====Built out of State==== | ||
If your car was custom-built out of state―good news. You'll only need to follow the same registration process as you would for any other vehicle (submitting completed forms and all applicable fees to your local DMV office). | If your car was custom-built out of state―good news. You'll only need to follow the same registration process as you would for any other vehicle (submitting completed forms and all applicable fees to your local DMV office). | ||
| − | Built in State | + | ====Built in State==== |
However, if you custom-built the car in West Virginia, you'll need to take a few more steps. Before you can register and title the car at the DMV, you're required to visit your local West Virginia State Police detachment with a verification of vehicle identification number (VIN) form. The officer who assists you will verify that there is no VIN already assigned to the vehicle. | However, if you custom-built the car in West Virginia, you'll need to take a few more steps. Before you can register and title the car at the DMV, you're required to visit your local West Virginia State Police detachment with a verification of vehicle identification number (VIN) form. The officer who assists you will verify that there is no VIN already assigned to the vehicle. | ||
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Note that regardless of where the car was built, you'll need to follow the same steps as outlined in our Car Registration section. | Note that regardless of where the car was built, you'll need to follow the same steps as outlined in our Car Registration section. | ||
| − | + | ====Registering for the First Time==== | |
| − | Registering for the First Time | + | |
If you're registering your vehicle in West Virginia for the first time, your registration process will depend on whether you purchased your vehicle from a dealership or an individual. If you purchased your vehicle from a dealership, the dealer will handle all paperwork for you and you'll be charged the applicable fees right there. If you purchased your vehicle from an individual, you'll need to take care of the registration at your local Division of Motor Vehicles (DMV) office. | If you're registering your vehicle in West Virginia for the first time, your registration process will depend on whether you purchased your vehicle from a dealership or an individual. If you purchased your vehicle from a dealership, the dealer will handle all paperwork for you and you'll be charged the applicable fees right there. If you purchased your vehicle from an individual, you'll need to take care of the registration at your local Division of Motor Vehicles (DMV) office. | ||
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New residents must title and register their vehicles within 30 days of establishing West Virginia residency. | New residents must title and register their vehicles within 30 days of establishing West Virginia residency. | ||
| − | |||
| − | |||
| − | |||
'''Source www.dmv.org/wv-west-virginia/custom-built-cars.php''' | '''Source www.dmv.org/wv-west-virginia/custom-built-cars.php''' | ||
| Line 1,610: | Line 1,500: | ||
*Application materials must include bills of sale for all major parts | *Application materials must include bills of sale for all major parts | ||
| − | + | Reconstructed vehicles normally refer to a salvage (junked) vehicle which has been reconstructed but the original title was declared "salvaged". These vehicles must meet the safety standards which applied in the year the vehicle was originally built. Because of their unique nature (having a "salvaged title") most hot rods will NOT be titled under this category. Some rodders also avoid this category because of the required state safety inspection. | |
| − | B) MOTORIZED HOMEMADE VEHICLES are defined as follows: | + | B) MOTORIZED HOMEMADE VEHICLES are defined as follows: |
*Homemade motor vehicles, other than motorcycles, qualify for Hobbyist plates. | *Homemade motor vehicles, other than motorcycles, qualify for Hobbyist plates. | ||
| Line 1,619: | Line 1,509: | ||
*Vehicle must be inspected by a Wisconsin State Patrol Officer. | *Vehicle must be inspected by a Wisconsin State Patrol Officer. | ||
| − | + | The Homemade Vehicle category is the most difficult of all the categories because it requires that the vehicle pass the safety requirements for the year the vehicle was COMPLETED - not the year it might replicate or mimic. For example, if the car was completed in 2006, it would have to meet the exact same safety and pollution standards as a 2006 Lexus. Most rodders avoid this category like the plague. | |
| − | C) STREET MODIFIED VEHICLES are defined as follows: | + | C) STREET MODIFIED VEHICLES are defined as follows: |
*Vehicle must be at least 20 years old. | *Vehicle must be at least 20 years old. | ||
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In the event the owner does not have a title (but the vehicle has an original VIN) you must apply for a replacement title using state form MV-1. The WDOT may require that the VIN be inspected and certified by a law enforcement officer (state or local police) and then their certification forwarded to the WDOT. | In the event the owner does not have a title (but the vehicle has an original VIN) you must apply for a replacement title using state form MV-1. The WDOT may require that the VIN be inspected and certified by a law enforcement officer (state or local police) and then their certification forwarded to the WDOT. | ||
| − | D) REPLICA VEHICLES are defined as follows: | + | D) REPLICA VEHICLES are defined as follows: |
*Vehicle is a reproduction of a vehicle originally made by another manufacturer. | *Vehicle is a reproduction of a vehicle originally made by another manufacturer. | ||
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In the event your vehicle does not have a VIN you will need to have the state assign one. Unfortunately, there are no directions on the WDOT web site to do this and very little in the state regulations. However, Curt Rymkus, who sat on the state legislative committee which wrote the original Hobby Plate legislation, as well as all of the updates to those regulations, offers a solution. In a 2006 interview, he said that the process for obtaining a VIN for a street rod or hot rod is as follows: | In the event your vehicle does not have a VIN you will need to have the state assign one. Unfortunately, there are no directions on the WDOT web site to do this and very little in the state regulations. However, Curt Rymkus, who sat on the state legislative committee which wrote the original Hobby Plate legislation, as well as all of the updates to those regulations, offers a solution. In a 2006 interview, he said that the process for obtaining a VIN for a street rod or hot rod is as follows: | ||
| − | + | a) Fill out and submit [http://www.dot.wisconsin.gov/drivers/forms/mv2855.pdf form MV2855] to the state DOT office. Include a written notation that the vehicle requires a new VIN. | |
| − | + | b) The State office of DOT "should" respond with a request for copies of your receipts for all major components of the vehicle (engine, trans, body, frame etc.). This information is to insure that applicable sales taxes have been paid for all of your components. Copy and submit these receipts. | |
| − | + | c) Once the receipts are submitted, the state DOT "should" respond by sending you a state assigned VIN already stamped on a metal plate. | |
| − | + | d) The owner must attach the VIN to the vehicle as instructed by WDOT. | |
| − | + | e) The owner must then schedule an appointment with a state or local police officer to inspect and certify the installation of the VIN. The officer will provide you with the form which he will complete. | |
| − | + | f) Submit the inspection form to WDOT | |
| − | + | g) Then continue the normal title/plate application process using form MV-1 | |
Note the "shoulds" in the above description. Some local and state DOT employees as well as some State Police Officers have not been trained in this process and do NOT know how these applications are handled. So the applicant may need to make some follow up inquiries and/or phone calls if the state DOT does not seem to be responding properly. | Note the "shoulds" in the above description. Some local and state DOT employees as well as some State Police Officers have not been trained in this process and do NOT know how these applications are handled. So the applicant may need to make some follow up inquiries and/or phone calls if the state DOT does not seem to be responding properly. | ||
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====Western Australia==== | ====Western Australia==== | ||
| − | |||
| − | |||
This is my experience with building an A roadster from scratch and in particular the Registration/Licensing process. | This is my experience with building an A roadster from scratch and in particular the Registration/Licensing process. | ||
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'''Repro Body OK.''' -[[Fiberglassing|Fibreglass]] or constructed from odd car panels to ressemble a pre 1948 vehicle. Eg; A model cowl with home made closed or open cab and home made pickup bed. If it looks like a '28 A Pickup then for all intensive purposes it is a '28 A pickup! | '''Repro Body OK.''' -[[Fiberglassing|Fibreglass]] or constructed from odd car panels to ressemble a pre 1948 vehicle. Eg; A model cowl with home made closed or open cab and home made pickup bed. If it looks like a '28 A Pickup then for all intensive purposes it is a '28 A pickup! | ||
| − | |||
Registration/Licensing involves a three inspection process, where the car is inspected by TAC (Technical Advisory Committee) respresentatives whom are hot rodders registered with the appropriate Governement Department to carry out such inspections. These inspectors mostly have either an engineering or mechanical trades background. Before the inspection you need to submit a planning application for your project noting down excatly what model, year and style of hot rod you are going to build. Also needs to include, what Engine, G/box, Diff, Suspension, etc. you are going to use. | Registration/Licensing involves a three inspection process, where the car is inspected by TAC (Technical Advisory Committee) respresentatives whom are hot rodders registered with the appropriate Governement Department to carry out such inspections. These inspectors mostly have either an engineering or mechanical trades background. Before the inspection you need to submit a planning application for your project noting down excatly what model, year and style of hot rod you are going to build. Also needs to include, what Engine, G/box, Diff, Suspension, etc. you are going to use. | ||
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It is my understanding that a Rod builder can go outside of the TAC guidelines and as such bypass the 3 inspection process? To do this he/she will require the services a mechanical engineer to sign off all aspects of the vehicle. The engineer must be authorised by the Department of Planning & Infrastrucure to carry out these vehicle assessments. This can be a costly route but if you wish to construct a rod that is outside the guidelines then it is your only choice. With the extra cost involved aside, it is getting increasingly difficult to find suitably authorised engineers who are prepared to sign off modifications. It's more to do with the current ''atmosphere'' surrounding litigation laws than anything else, ie; When or if something goes wrong, who is going to take responsibility? The owner or the engineer who signed the modifications off? | It is my understanding that a Rod builder can go outside of the TAC guidelines and as such bypass the 3 inspection process? To do this he/she will require the services a mechanical engineer to sign off all aspects of the vehicle. The engineer must be authorised by the Department of Planning & Infrastrucure to carry out these vehicle assessments. This can be a costly route but if you wish to construct a rod that is outside the guidelines then it is your only choice. With the extra cost involved aside, it is getting increasingly difficult to find suitably authorised engineers who are prepared to sign off modifications. It's more to do with the current ''atmosphere'' surrounding litigation laws than anything else, ie; When or if something goes wrong, who is going to take responsibility? The owner or the engineer who signed the modifications off? | ||
| − | '''DISCLAIMER:''' Just for the record I have no affiliation with either the TAC representatives or the Department of Planning and Infrastructure in Western Australia. I have deliberately steered clear of re-writing the guidelines as they are in published form and readily available elesewhere. Like I said earlier, it's all just from my own experience. Please '''DO NOT''' take any of the above as a definative ''text book'' copy of the rules and regulations. It's just one rodders opinion of how the system worked for him in a positve way. | + | '''DISCLAIMER:''' |
| + | Just for the record I have no affiliation with either the TAC representatives or the Department of Planning and Infrastructure in Western Australia. I have deliberately steered clear of re-writing the guidelines as they are in published form and readily available elesewhere. Like I said earlier, it's all just from my own experience. Please '''DO NOT''' take any of the above as a definative ''text book'' copy of the rules and regulations. It's just one rodders opinion of how the system worked for him in a positve way. | ||
Redned | Redned | ||
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---- | ---- | ||
| − | + | ==Canada== | |
| − | + | ===Ontario=== | |
| − | Note About this Information: | + | ''Note About this Information'': |
Canadian Rodder presents this information exacty as provided by the Ontario Ministry of Transportation. It has not been edited except to format it for presentation purposes. We are not in a position to interpret the information beyond what is stated or to give advice on unique situations. We hope you will find this information useful. | Canadian Rodder presents this information exacty as provided by the Ontario Ministry of Transportation. It has not been edited except to format it for presentation purposes. We are not in a position to interpret the information beyond what is stated or to give advice on unique situations. We hope you will find this information useful. | ||
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With respect to custom cars, the Ministry of Transportation does have specific registration requirements for kit cars and rebuilt vehicles. Information on registration requirements for a kit car or rebuilt vehicle is below. | With respect to custom cars, the Ministry of Transportation does have specific registration requirements for kit cars and rebuilt vehicles. Information on registration requirements for a kit car or rebuilt vehicle is below. | ||
| − | Kit | + | Kit Car |
Definition: a complete body of a motor vehicle, not including an engine, chassis or drive train. Kit body is a replica of an existing or vintage motor vehicle. | Definition: a complete body of a motor vehicle, not including an engine, chassis or drive train. Kit body is a replica of an existing or vintage motor vehicle. | ||
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