How to rebuild an engine
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== Requirements == | == Requirements == | ||
| − | + | ===What tools are needed?=== | |
You will need a basic set of hand tools, such as a good variety of boxed end wrenches, ratchet and socket set, screwdriver set, and a gasket scraper. This basic set of tools will get you through the majority of the disassembly steps. | You will need a basic set of hand tools, such as a good variety of boxed end wrenches, ratchet and socket set, screwdriver set, and a gasket scraper. This basic set of tools will get you through the majority of the disassembly steps. | ||
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Depending on how in-depth and involved you want to get with your rebuild(s) and how many engines you think you are going to rebuild, you may want to acquire some additional measuring equipment. Items such as a set of outside micrometers, an inside micrometer, vernier, dial or digital calipers and maybe a dial bore gauge can let you know precisely what your sizes are. A "snap gauge" set can be used for spring installed height, bore diameter, etc. Think of these tools as indispensable if you are planning to blueprint your engine(s). You will also need a decent engine stand. It will make your build easier to support the engine, keeping it from the ground, and also helps in tearing the engine down and keeping the engine clean at assembly time. | Depending on how in-depth and involved you want to get with your rebuild(s) and how many engines you think you are going to rebuild, you may want to acquire some additional measuring equipment. Items such as a set of outside micrometers, an inside micrometer, vernier, dial or digital calipers and maybe a dial bore gauge can let you know precisely what your sizes are. A "snap gauge" set can be used for spring installed height, bore diameter, etc. Think of these tools as indispensable if you are planning to blueprint your engine(s). You will also need a decent engine stand. It will make your build easier to support the engine, keeping it from the ground, and also helps in tearing the engine down and keeping the engine clean at assembly time. | ||
| − | + | ===Selecting tools=== | |
For each tool needed to rebuild an engine, we'll need to know: | For each tool needed to rebuild an engine, we'll need to know: | ||
*Approximately how much do the tools cost? | *Approximately how much do the tools cost? | ||
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Eventually it will come time to install your camshaft as well. If you are planning on doing this yourself, you will need a degreeing wheel for sure! You can buy these alone, or in comprehensive kits from somewhere like JEGS, or Summit Racing Equipment, maybe even the local shop. They go for around $200. Just the wheels themselves can be purchased for as low as $10.00. You will also need a dial indicator, as well as a magnetic stand for it. These can also be purchased at Jegs, Summit or even your local Harbor Freight store. The larger (diameter) the degree wheel the easier it is to be accurate. | Eventually it will come time to install your camshaft as well. If you are planning on doing this yourself, you will need a degreeing wheel for sure! You can buy these alone, or in comprehensive kits from somewhere like JEGS, or Summit Racing Equipment, maybe even the local shop. They go for around $200. Just the wheels themselves can be purchased for as low as $10.00. You will also need a dial indicator, as well as a magnetic stand for it. These can also be purchased at Jegs, Summit or even your local Harbor Freight store. The larger (diameter) the degree wheel the easier it is to be accurate. | ||
| − | + | ===Purchasing tools=== | |
When purchasing tools, it is best to consider the application and frequency of use. If the tool is intended for infrequent to frequent hobby use, the purchase of cheaper brands of tools such as Craftsman may be appropriate. If, however, the tool is intended for daily use in harsh conditions, especially in the context of automotive repair, an investment in higher quality tools produced by companies such as Matco, Snap On, Mac and Cornwell should be considered. | When purchasing tools, it is best to consider the application and frequency of use. If the tool is intended for infrequent to frequent hobby use, the purchase of cheaper brands of tools such as Craftsman may be appropriate. If, however, the tool is intended for daily use in harsh conditions, especially in the context of automotive repair, an investment in higher quality tools produced by companies such as Matco, Snap On, Mac and Cornwell should be considered. | ||
| − | + | ===Borrowing tools=== | |
If you decide you need some specialized tools that you really don't want to invest money into right now, ask around in your circle of friends to find out if any of them have the tool(s) and will loan to you for the task at hand. It is common courtesy to return borrowed tools promptly and in better condition than they were lent: If a tool was dirty when it was borrowed, clean it before it is returned. | If you decide you need some specialized tools that you really don't want to invest money into right now, ask around in your circle of friends to find out if any of them have the tool(s) and will loan to you for the task at hand. It is common courtesy to return borrowed tools promptly and in better condition than they were lent: If a tool was dirty when it was borrowed, clean it before it is returned. | ||
Be aware of the industry notion that a tool that has been borrowed more than twice should be considered for future purchase. | Be aware of the industry notion that a tool that has been borrowed more than twice should be considered for future purchase. | ||
| − | Also, Auto Zone will lend out tools for free, although they may require a deposit on the tool. Also, check with local rental stores, some of them carry items like torque wrenches and cam bearing installation tools, even engine stands, | + | Also, Auto Zone will lend out tools for free, although they may require a deposit on the tool. Also, check with local rental stores, some of them carry items like torque wrenches and cam bearing installation tools, even engine stands, although I highly recommend you buying an engine stand because most of the times your engine will remain bolted to it longer than expected due to lack of time or money or availability of parts, and if you need to return the borrowed stand you'll get into some kind of trouble, a low cost stand will do fine for most small blocks, for a big block maybe you should install the accessories later when the engine is in the car. |
| − | + | ===Renting tools=== | |
There are some tools you will want to rent instead of purchasing, such as a cherry picker to remove and replace the motor in the car. | There are some tools you will want to rent instead of purchasing, such as a cherry picker to remove and replace the motor in the car. | ||
| − | + | ==Work area== | |
Most people who are going to rebuild their own engine will be tearing it apart before taking it to a machine shop, and then reassembling it when the machine work is done. When tearing it apart, try to work in an area that you can get dirty, and where bolts and other small items won't get lost. | Most people who are going to rebuild their own engine will be tearing it apart before taking it to a machine shop, and then reassembling it when the machine work is done. When tearing it apart, try to work in an area that you can get dirty, and where bolts and other small items won't get lost. | ||
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In order to minimize the risk of sending dust up into the air and settling on work area surfaces, a floor sweeping compound, damp saw dust or damp cloth should be used. If the space is small and/or enclosed, an air filtration system may also provide aid in minimizing the presence of particulate matter. | In order to minimize the risk of sending dust up into the air and settling on work area surfaces, a floor sweeping compound, damp saw dust or damp cloth should be used. If the space is small and/or enclosed, an air filtration system may also provide aid in minimizing the presence of particulate matter. | ||
| − | + | == Skill level == | |
The amount of skill necessary to rebuild an engine depends on what engine you are rebuilding and just how much of the work you plan on doing yourself. If you are rebuilding a standard pushrod V8 such as the small block Chevy with all the machine work being performed by a reputable shop, then the skills needed are basically nothing more than being good with your hands, the ability to take and read measurements, use tools properly, the patience to do things right the first time and the ability to read, understand, and follow a comprehensive manual on the subject. If you don't understand or are not certain of a procedure, ask an experienced professional! | The amount of skill necessary to rebuild an engine depends on what engine you are rebuilding and just how much of the work you plan on doing yourself. If you are rebuilding a standard pushrod V8 such as the small block Chevy with all the machine work being performed by a reputable shop, then the skills needed are basically nothing more than being good with your hands, the ability to take and read measurements, use tools properly, the patience to do things right the first time and the ability to read, understand, and follow a comprehensive manual on the subject. If you don't understand or are not certain of a procedure, ask an experienced professional! | ||
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A lot of people choose to run the stock motor that came in the car. This would be a good idea if it's your first hot rod, if the engine in your car is still in good condition (if it even came with an engine) or if your motor and mechanical skills aren't developed enough yet to undertake an engine swap. Depending on what kind of car you're working with, the stock engine will often suffice, if the car is meant to be a daily driver or a weekend cruiser. | A lot of people choose to run the stock motor that came in the car. This would be a good idea if it's your first hot rod, if the engine in your car is still in good condition (if it even came with an engine) or if your motor and mechanical skills aren't developed enough yet to undertake an engine swap. Depending on what kind of car you're working with, the stock engine will often suffice, if the car is meant to be a daily driver or a weekend cruiser. | ||
| − | If you're planning to build a wild custom car, strip racer, or weekend warrior, the stock engine probably won't be of any interest to you. There are many performance parts available these days for the older popular engines. Anything from Ford | + | If you're planning to build a wild custom car, strip racer, or weekend warrior, the stock engine probably won't be of any interest to you. There are many performance parts available these days for the older popular engines. Anything from the Ford Flathead, Chrysler Hemi, GM Stovebolt, Buick Nailhead, and Ford small blocks have a big variety of aftermarket parts available. |
Taking the stock engine and hopping it up a bit to squeeze a little bit more performance out of it is a very common thing done by a lot of people building a first time hot rod. Just by changing the exhaust, intake and camshaft, a stock boring engine can often become a neat hot rod mill with plenty of power for daily driving and weekend cruising. If your plans for your hot rod include a loud nasty fire breathing monster motor, your stock motor probably won't do a lot for you. | Taking the stock engine and hopping it up a bit to squeeze a little bit more performance out of it is a very common thing done by a lot of people building a first time hot rod. Just by changing the exhaust, intake and camshaft, a stock boring engine can often become a neat hot rod mill with plenty of power for daily driving and weekend cruising. If your plans for your hot rod include a loud nasty fire breathing monster motor, your stock motor probably won't do a lot for you. | ||
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===Mild=== | ===Mild=== | ||
| − | The next step up from a stock motor would be a mild engine. Often times stock motors cross into the mild engine category. The most popular engines used for a mild HP powerplant | + | The next step up from a stock motor would be a mild engine. Often times stock motors cross into the mild engine category. The most popular engines used for a mild HP powerplant is the small block Chevy (SBC), big block Chevy (BBC), the small block Fords (SBF), and small block Mopars (LA engines). Any of these engines are used widely in the hotrodding hobby as well as race venues of all types and they all have a huge choice of aftermarket parts available. They all present a good platform for a first time rebuild or for somebody who needs more than stock. Again, which engine to pick is entirely up to you. Some people swear on the reliability and availability of parts of the SBC, while other people preach a Ford should go in a Ford. Many rodders consider it sacrilegious to put anything but a Mopar in a Dodge, Plymouth or Chrysler. But in the end, it all comes down to your choice. If you find a Mopar LA fitting better in your rod than a Ford or Chevy, and if you are able to get one cheap, who's to say you shouldn't use it? There are many books written on rebuilding these engines, and while the choice shouldn't merely be between these, they are the most popular. |
===Wild=== | ===Wild=== | ||
| − | A lot of rodders prefer their tunes coming from big displacement high horsepower output engines. If this sounds like you, your engine rebuild might cost a considerable amount more money than a stock engine rebuild/hop-up. The most popular route for Wild engines include the big | + | A lot of rodders prefer their tunes coming from big displacement high horsepower output engines. If this sounds like you, your engine rebuild might cost a considerable amount more money than a stock engine rebuild/hop-up. The most popular route for Wild engines include the big three domestic car producers: GM, Ford, and Mopar. The 454 BBC motor has long been considered the ultimate hot rod powerplant. However, over time the Chrysler Hemi and the 427 Ford have made a big comeback, and are all considered perfect candidates for high performance NA or supercharged engines. |
==Locating an engine to rebuild== | ==Locating an engine to rebuild== | ||
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Classifieds are probably the best way to go if you don't have an engine hoist, a cherry picker, or some device to lift the engine out of the car. Most newspapers have an Auto Parts section in the classifieds. Often the engines get a section for themselves as well. Usually, the engines sold in classifieds are either pulled already or the owner will pull it for you. This saves you quite a bit of work, time and money. Care should be taken however, to buy a fairly complete engine. The alternator, starter, ac, wiring, intake, carb, fan etc. will all add up to a very big sum of money if purchased separately. Consequently, it is advisable for you to buy an engine that comes with all the necessary accessories to make it run. The transmission is another important part when buying an engine from the classifieds. Be sure to check if the engine comes with a transmission, unless you already have one or will be acquiring a different one. Before doing this, you should check to see if the tranny and engine you're buying can be adapted with the proper bellhousing. | Classifieds are probably the best way to go if you don't have an engine hoist, a cherry picker, or some device to lift the engine out of the car. Most newspapers have an Auto Parts section in the classifieds. Often the engines get a section for themselves as well. Usually, the engines sold in classifieds are either pulled already or the owner will pull it for you. This saves you quite a bit of work, time and money. Care should be taken however, to buy a fairly complete engine. The alternator, starter, ac, wiring, intake, carb, fan etc. will all add up to a very big sum of money if purchased separately. Consequently, it is advisable for you to buy an engine that comes with all the necessary accessories to make it run. The transmission is another important part when buying an engine from the classifieds. Be sure to check if the engine comes with a transmission, unless you already have one or will be acquiring a different one. Before doing this, you should check to see if the tranny and engine you're buying can be adapted with the proper bellhousing. | ||
| − | Another good way of finding the perfect engine in the classifieds is by browsing through the car wrecking section. Often times, people will sell cars for parts, or as beaters, or for wrecking. These cars can be had as cheaply as $100. If you're lucky, the engine in them might be half decent. Often times these cars are no longer roadworthy because the body is literally falling apart due to [[rust]], but they're mechanically sound. An advantage to buying a complete donor car is that you get to hear the engine run, the engine is already mated to a working transmission, you can use all the accessories and wiring of the existing car to make the engine run. And if you're lucky you might even find a good use for the rearend. Sell the interior and seats on eBay or your local classifieds and get a small portion back. The drawback to buying a donor car is that the engine has to be removed, and the car takes up space (which | + | Another good way of finding the perfect engine in the classifieds is by browsing through the car wrecking section. Often times, people will sell cars for parts, or as beaters, or for wrecking. These cars can be had as cheaply as $100. If you're lucky, the engine in them might be half decent. Often times these cars are no longer roadworthy because the body is literally falling apart due to [[rust]], but they're mechanically sound. An advantage to buying a complete donor car is that you get to hear the engine run, the engine is already mated to a working transmission, you can use all the accessories and wiring of the existing car to make the engine run. And if you're lucky you might even find a good use for the rearend. Sell the interior and seats on eBay or your local classifieds and get a small portion back. The drawback to buying a donor car is that the engine has to be removed, and the car takes up space (which some just don't have). A disadvantage to buying from the classifieds: you often don't get to hear the engine run (as it's pulled already in a majority of cases). |
| − | === | + | ===Auto salvage yards=== |
| − | + | An auto salvage yards (aka junkyard) can be a great resource for locating needed car parts or locating an engine for your hot rod. Many of the cars built during the past forty-plus years came equipped with a V8 engine, a relatively heavy duty transmission and rear end, and are rear wheel drive. Now that these vehicles are past their usefulness as transportation, many end up in the junkyards to be recycled into a project. Junkyards catering to the older iron may be full of cars from the 1980's and older, waiting to donate their mechanical heart. "Pick-a-part" junkyard shopping is often a good idea in order to find the best prices. Some of these type yards will run specials on a certain day of the week or month that you can get a discount price on all you can haul out in a load, for example. | |
| − | + | Many Chevy, Dodge and Ford cars and trucks from the '50's to the early to mid '80's came equipped with a carbureted (non-EFI) V8, perfectly usable to power a hot rod. However, care should be taken when selecting an engine. Engine size, width, and length should all be taken into account. Depending on which car the engine is destined for, measurements are crucial to determining the fit. | |
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| − | + | Junkyards can be rough places in which to work. Time is going to be needed to remove the engine, and all tools and equipment have to be brought from home. It might take several hours before the engine comes loose and out of its nest. Each car has different places where parts bolt onto and where the engine connects to the frame, and each bolt has to be removed. Most of these cars have been sitting there for a while, so be prepared to wrestle with rusted, stripped and broken bolts, layers of caked-on grease and dirt on the undercarriage and oil pan, and a lot of rusty sheetmetal. Some 'yards have an area that a vehicle can be placed up on supports so the engine and other large parts can be better accessed. | |
| − | + | When choosing an engine, engines with thick amount of surface [[rust]], critical missing parts or an obviously cracked block or heads should be completely avoided. If you can, pick an engine in a car that retains its hood. A car that has been sitting out in the 'yard without a hood will have rust built up inside the cylinders from the rain pouring into the engine. The more accessories and parts that are remaining on the engine, the better for future use. Testing the engine to see if it turns over by turning the crankshaft with a long breaker bar type wrench is a good way of determining whether the block is frozen up/rusted solid or not. If an engine doesn't turn over, leave it be. See: [[Freeing a stuck engine]]. | |
| − | + | ===Networking=== | |
| + | This might work well if you live in a more rural area where pickings in the classified ads are slim. Talk with anyone who gets out into the boonies on a regular basis and offer them a reward for information leading to an abandoned car or truck. Candidates would include police officers, letter carriers, rural newspaper delivery persons, repairmen who work on high-voltage lines, water/electric meter readers, surveyors and so forth. Place a wanted poster in the local hunting or fishing supply store to reach sportsmen. | ||
== Acquisition == | == Acquisition == | ||
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*Make sure that the air conditioning system is discharged before you remove the A/C compressor. | *Make sure that the air conditioning system is discharged before you remove the A/C compressor. | ||
*Use baggies for ALL your nuts and bolts, and label them. Items too large for baggies can be placed in plastic trash bags or cardboard boxes, but above all, label them! Also you can use a felt tip to mark parts...top, bottom, left, right, etc. | *Use baggies for ALL your nuts and bolts, and label them. Items too large for baggies can be placed in plastic trash bags or cardboard boxes, but above all, label them! Also you can use a felt tip to mark parts...top, bottom, left, right, etc. | ||
| − | *Remove the hood. Don't do it alone...get a neighbor, a buddy, your wife. | + | *Remove the hood. Don't do it alone... get a neighbor, a buddy, your wife. |
*Be sure to drain any fluids beforehand, to keep from making a mess, and to be friendly to the environment. | *Be sure to drain any fluids beforehand, to keep from making a mess, and to be friendly to the environment. | ||
*Remove the fan, fan shroud, and water hoses (drain and dispose of [[coolant]] properly; it's poisonous to humans and animals). You may also want to remove the [[radiator]], but if you are careful, it is not necessary. | *Remove the fan, fan shroud, and water hoses (drain and dispose of [[coolant]] properly; it's poisonous to humans and animals). You may also want to remove the [[radiator]], but if you are careful, it is not necessary. | ||
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Before you start taking things off of your engine, there are a few items you want to have on hand so you can start and finish with few stops and starts. | Before you start taking things off of your engine, there are a few items you want to have on hand so you can start and finish with few stops and starts. | ||
| − | You will need a 4-wheel engine stand (3-wheel engine stands have a wicked tendency to tip easily). Using a 4-wheel engine stand is the safest and fastest way to disassemble an engine. | + | You will need a 4-wheel engine stand (3-wheel engine stands have a wicked tendency to tip easily). Using a 4-wheel engine stand is the safest and fastest way to disassemble an engine. The only thing worse than dropping a greasy iron head on your foot is trying to catch an engine tipping over on a 3-wheel engine stand. |
You will need baggies to put all of your nuts and bolts into so you do not lose any of them. Make sure to label the baggies. Some like to use a metal coffee can with some 1/8th inch holes poked in the bottom and sides, to clean parts with prior to putting them in the baggies. This will allow you to rinse the dirt and grime off all the fasteners very fast and you do not have to worry about any of them falling out into the solvent bath. A can of WD-40 or something like it can be used on the rusted fasteners. | You will need baggies to put all of your nuts and bolts into so you do not lose any of them. Make sure to label the baggies. Some like to use a metal coffee can with some 1/8th inch holes poked in the bottom and sides, to clean parts with prior to putting them in the baggies. This will allow you to rinse the dirt and grime off all the fasteners very fast and you do not have to worry about any of them falling out into the solvent bath. A can of WD-40 or something like it can be used on the rusted fasteners. | ||
| − | Before starting disassembly, it is best to clean the built up sludge off the motor, preferably well before the motor enters the bay (a clean | + | Before starting disassembly, it is best to clean the built up sludge off the motor, preferably well before the motor enters the bay (a clean work area ensures a clean build). Degreasing the engine with a heavy duty degreaser accompanied by power washing is best. Be sure to plug all holes to prevent water getting inside the engine. Some motors have sludge so thick it hides bolts and prolongs disassembly |
| − | It is a good idea to have a bunch of clean rags. Some of these engines can be DIRTY and if you keep your tools clean as you go, you will not waste time washing your hands. If at all possible, roll the engine to a place where you can clean/degrease it from top to bottom | + | It is a good idea to have a bunch of clean rags. Some of these engines can be DIRTY and if you keep your tools clean as you go, you will not waste time washing your hands. If at all possible, roll the engine to a place where you can clean/degrease it from top to bottom. As a suggestion, revise to take a few pictures of the engine from all angles. Then, when you are putting things back together, you have a reference photo to figure out just where that bracket goes. |
===External parts and accessories=== | ===External parts and accessories=== | ||
The first items that come off of an engine that will be rebuilt are the exhaust manifolds. Then, take off all the brackets holding the A/C compressor, alternator, power steering pump, and smog pump. Then take the distributor out. Wrap a clean rag around the bottom end of the distributor, and then put it into a zip-lock plastic bag. This can be cleaned later. | The first items that come off of an engine that will be rebuilt are the exhaust manifolds. Then, take off all the brackets holding the A/C compressor, alternator, power steering pump, and smog pump. Then take the distributor out. Wrap a clean rag around the bottom end of the distributor, and then put it into a zip-lock plastic bag. This can be cleaned later. | ||
| − | Now for the carburetor or fuel injection or throttle body. Put the injectors into plastic bags. Again, when it comes time to put new O-rings on the injectors you can work on each, one at a time, without getting them dinged up in the fastener | + | Now for the carburetor or fuel injection or throttle body. Put the injectors into plastic bags. Again, when it comes time to put new O-rings on the injectors you can work on each, one at a time, without getting them dinged up by being knocked around in one of the fastener cans you will be using to hold nuts and bolts. |
| − | If the engine has a carburetor, do not turn it upside down unless you plan on installing a rebuild kit on it also. Any "crud" that has settled to the bottom of the carburetor fuel bowl will become lodged in places you do not want dirt or rust, so keep it right-side up and again wrap a clean rag around it and then pop it into a plastic bag. | + | If the engine has a carburetor, do not turn it upside down unless you plan on installing a rebuild kit on it also. Any "crud" that has settled to the bottom of the carburetor fuel bowl will become lodged in places you do not want dirt or rust, so keep it right-side up and again wrap a clean rag around it and then pop it into a plastic bag. Store the carb, distributor and any other fragile parts carefully to avoid damage. If you are working on an engine with a throttle body just put the unit in a plastic bag for now. At a later time you can put in new O-rings. You just don't need all these parts in your way until you start to reassemble the engine. |
| − | For an engine with a carburetor now is the time for the fuel pump to be taken off. On Small Block | + | For an engine with a carburetor now is the time for the fuel pump to be taken off. On the Small Block Chevy (SBC), there is a mounting plate that needs to be removed that has a fuel pump push rod behind it that needs to be removed as well. You can put this rod and the spacer plate in with the fasteners. |
===Engine block and internal part disassembly=== | ===Engine block and internal part disassembly=== | ||
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The rocker arms should then be removed and placed in number sequence so that they can easily be identified from where they came. | The rocker arms should then be removed and placed in number sequence so that they can easily be identified from where they came. | ||
| − | Pushrods can be pulled and placed in a shallow pan for cleaning and | + | Pushrods can be pulled and placed in a shallow pan for cleaning and possible reuse. |
Head bolts should be removed and inserted in a cardboard template to make note of there location. | Head bolts should be removed and inserted in a cardboard template to make note of there location. | ||
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Prying up with a pry bar in the intake ports to cause separation of the head from the block, watch for coolant spills. Use a wide blade screwdriver to leverage the heads up off the block and dowel pins. Remove the heads to a solid work bench for inspection. | Prying up with a pry bar in the intake ports to cause separation of the head from the block, watch for coolant spills. Use a wide blade screwdriver to leverage the heads up off the block and dowel pins. Remove the heads to a solid work bench for inspection. | ||
| − | Remove lifters from their bores | + | Remove lifters from their bores; use a hook or removal tool and carb cleaner spray to remove the hard ones. Keep the lifters in order if they are to be reused. Drain the oil then pull the crank pulley, timing cover and the oil pan. Remove the timing gears and chain. Pull the camshaft. Remove the oil pump and drive rod. Before un-doing the rod caps, take a number set, engraver or center punch and number/ID the caps and the rods. Pull off the cap on ONE rod and using a hardwood block, tap out the piston and then go on to the next. With all the pistons out, match up the caps and loosely nut them. Pull the flywheel or flex plate. After marking the main caps for location if needed (some will be marked for position from the factory), undo the main bearing bolts, pull the bearing shells, and with care lift the crank out of the bearing shells and place on the work bench. Make sure that you block the crank so it won't roll off the bench. Nothing worse than damaging a crank when it hits the floor. Wash down all the parts and block. Lightly coat the bearing surfaces with clean oil and coat the engine bores, etc. with ATF, etc. to keep rust to a minimum. |
| − | Depending on your experience, take block and crank to the machine shop for | + | Depending on your experience, take block and crank to the machine shop for inspection for cracks/defects and for measurements of the bores, main saddles and decks, or inspect and mic the engine yourself using the proper specs. Reasonable care should be taken when moving the block and crank so that they do not become damaged in transportation. If moving them over a long distance it may be better to put the crank back in the engine and bolt it in for the ride, also put the pan on for extra protection. Heads should be secured safely. |
==Machining== | ==Machining== | ||
===Deciding what machine work to do=== | ===Deciding what machine work to do=== | ||
| − | What will the engine be used for? This will be the determing factor on how much you're going to spend. In | + | What will the engine be used for? This will be the determing factor on how much you're going to spend. In any case, whether it's a stock replacement swap or a race engine, there are a few things that should be done. |
#Have your block degreased and magnafluxed. If it passes the magnaflux test, proceed to the next step knowing it to be crack free. | #Have your block degreased and magnafluxed. If it passes the magnaflux test, proceed to the next step knowing it to be crack free. | ||
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=== How to select a machine shop === | === How to select a machine shop === | ||
Cleanliness, experience, referral from trusted sources, knowledge, etc. Remember, anyone can purchase the machinery and equipment. Good equipment is necessary, but so is experience. No two shops do things the same way. Talk to the shop owner/manager and find one that you are comfortable with. Big names don't always assure top quality. | Cleanliness, experience, referral from trusted sources, knowledge, etc. Remember, anyone can purchase the machinery and equipment. Good equipment is necessary, but so is experience. No two shops do things the same way. Talk to the shop owner/manager and find one that you are comfortable with. Big names don't always assure top quality. | ||
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| − | + | Your machine work is only as good as the machinist performing the work! Meet and talk to the machinist that will be working on your engine...establish a rapport...be his friend as the future life of your engine is in his hands! | |
| − | + | Always interview the machine shop that is going to do the work on your engine. See that the shop has a complete line of rebuilding equipment to do the job that you want done. Check out the equipment that they have. Here's a link to what equipment you expect to see: http://www.allstates.com/Engine.html. Beware of shops that just "front" the actual work for other specialty machine shops. Cut out the middle man, do your homework and take your heads directly to the shop that can grind and fit your valves, AND flow your heads on their flow bench to see the improvement and benefits of their head work. Do your homework! | |
| − | Be sure while interviewing the machine shop to ask what engines they know a lot about. Don't ask "Do you know a lot about this | + | Also, some machine shops specialize in certain engines (such as the AMC V8 if you want the "oil line mod" done), and it is advisable to seek out a shop that specializes in the engine you're rebuilding. Be sure while interviewing the machine shop to ask what engines they know a lot about. Don't ask "Do you know a lot about this engine?", as they can simply reply "yes". Ask them "What engines are you guys familiar with?" |
== Assembly == | == Assembly == | ||
| − | *Always chase your threads with a | + | *Always chase your threads with a thread chaser (not a tap) on all threaded holes, especially where torque values are critical, like head bolts holes, intake and exhaust holes, etc. |
*Clean and oil threads for a good torque reading but be sure that this is either what your manual instructs or is common practice for your engine/build. Take special care with soft metals like aluminum, as you may do irreparable damage. | *Clean and oil threads for a good torque reading but be sure that this is either what your manual instructs or is common practice for your engine/build. Take special care with soft metals like aluminum, as you may do irreparable damage. | ||
| − | *Clean all bolt threads thoroughly: A wire | + | *Clean all bolt threads thoroughly: A wire wheel on a grinder works well for this. |
*Be sure to check and verify before using existing head bolts as some engines require new ones. | *Be sure to check and verify before using existing head bolts as some engines require new ones. | ||
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*Be sure when using or replacing any and all bolts with stainless or aluminum to use anti-seize on the threads. | *Be sure when using or replacing any and all bolts with stainless or aluminum to use anti-seize on the threads. | ||
| − | *Always check the unit system and grade of replacement fasteners. Using metric instead of | + | *Always check the unit system and grade of replacement fasteners. Using metric instead of SAE threads, for example, is not in any way acceptable, nor is using ungraded or the wrong grade fasteners. Always use the fastener designated appropriate for your application. Using the wrong fastener will likely compromise the engine, its parts and/or put one at risk. In some instances, using too "strong" of a fastener may do more harm than good because they were intended to break before serious engine damage could occur. |
== Testing and break-in == | == Testing and break-in == | ||
''This section can probably be placed in a new article on engine break-in procedures.'' | ''This section can probably be placed in a new article on engine break-in procedures.'' | ||
| − | Oil formulations are being changed due to pressure from the OEM's and EPA. Zinc and phosphorus tend to coat O2 sensors and plug catalytic converters resulting in warranty claims as well as contributing to dirty exhaust emissions, so they are being eliminated from motor oils as we speak. These elements | + | Oil formulations are being changed due to pressure from the OEM's and EPA. Zinc and phosphorus tend to coat O2 sensors and plug catalytic converters resulting in warranty claims as well as contributing to dirty exhaust emissions, so they are being eliminated from motor oils as we speak. These elements were used in the oil to provide extreme pressure lubrication and protection from galling on heavily loaded engine components such as the cam lobe/lifter crown interface. The oil companies have no choice, they have to follow the guidelines imposed on them. |
| − | + | The loss of those high pressure lubricant suppliments from the motor oil now available was made viable because of the change to roller cams. With them, there is no special procedure for break-in. You just oil them, drop them in and no other special break-in procedures are needed for the cam and lifters. Obviously the rings and other new components will still require a break in period, but with a rller cam the bigggest problem associated with breaking in a rebuilt engine (flat tappet cam lobe/lifter failure) is a thing of the past. Be advised though, that there could be a problem with mechanical roller camshafts in a street motor. The best application for a street motor would be a hydraulic roller cam. Most hydraulic roller cams will have a rev limit of around 6,000 to 6,200 RPMs due to the weight of the components, the design of the hydraulic lifter itself and the lobe design. If a higher powerband is wanted or needed, you've moved out of the street engine realm and are now into race engine territory, and should be looking into a solid roller valve train. The old flat tappet technology is just about dead, save for a few of us old die-hards. | |
| − | + | This is similar to how the current ignition systems came to be. Kettering invented the points-type ignition system early in the last century and it endured for some 70 years. When it came time to clean up the environment, the OEM's switched to electronic ignition and we never looked back. Points-type ignitions have been replaced by HEI-type ignition systems. Now we have moved to solid state ignition with a coil for each cylinder, controlled by computers and rare earth spark plug electrodes to provide good performance and acceptable emissions levels for as much as 100K-plus miles before servicing is required. Same with carburetors. Electronic fuel injection is lightyears ahead of the old technology, and it contributes to vastly improved fuel mileage and much cleaner emissions. | |
For those of you who insist on using flat tappet cams (more than likely due to the cost of roller units, particularly if building a pre-roller cam type of block), here is the best way to do it: | For those of you who insist on using flat tappet cams (more than likely due to the cost of roller units, particularly if building a pre-roller cam type of block), here is the best way to do it: | ||
| − | 1. Start with a matched and coordinated set of parts | + | 1. Start with a matched and coordinated set of parts. Use the lifters and spring specs recommended by the cam grinder for your particular application and rpm limit. There is no point in using more valve spring pressure than needed, especially in a flat tappet street motor. To do so is asking for problems. Always consult with your favorite cam grinder for cam/lifter/spring recommendations for your particular application. Never rely solely on the recommendation of gearheads on auto forums. It's OK to ask and get general recommendations and suggestions from such sources, but before you lay down your hard-earned money, consult with the manufacturer's tech guy. He will want to know all the particulars of your combination including exact static compression ratio, so have all this written down so you can answer his questions intelligently. |
| + | |||
| + | 2. Keep in mind that there is no such thing as a "great deal" on cam and lifters. Little do they know that this is junk made offshore and that they will be buying a new set of cam and lifters shortly, as well as spending a few days tearing the motor completely apart to clean out the shrapnel. | ||
| − | + | You might want to research using special lifters or treatments that help prevent cam lobe/lifter failure. Some options are: | |
| + | *Hard-faced lifters with a stellite face on the lifter crown that will resist scuffing. | ||
| + | *Comp Cams has an optional nitriding process that can be applied to any of their cams fr around $100 over he cost of the cam. | ||
| + | *[http://www.4secondsflat.com/Composite%20lifters.htm SM Composite lifters], ~$700/set. | ||
| + | *[http://www.4secondsflat.com/SM%20Tool%20Steel%20Lifters.htm SM Tool Steel lifters], ~$485-$625. | ||
| − | 3. There are | + | 3. There are specialty/racing motor oil that will give protection to your new cam and lifters. "Over the counter" motor oils are not up to the task, generally speaking and they are constantly changing formulations, it seems. Crane Cams has recommended Shell Rotella and an engine oil supplement containing extreme pressure lubricants. The other oil that is touted by engine builders is 15W-40 RPM Delo. GM has discontinued (and now have re-released) the EOS (Engine Oil Suppliment) they used to offer. If you use a molymndinum disulfide-type cam and lifter break in lube applied to the foot of the lifter and cam lobes along with good quality oil and add 1-1/2 ounces of ZDDP additive per quart of oil for initial startup, you've done as well as you can to prevent lifter/lobe scuff/wear/failure. With subsequent oil changes, one ounce per quart of oil should help to contribute to long engine life. |
| − | 4. Assemble your heads with old, used, '''stock''' springs. DO NOT ASSEMBLE WITH THE SPRINGS YOU WILL EVENTUALLY RUN. Keep an old set on the shelf just for running in a new motor, then change them out at the 30 | + | 4. Assemble your heads with old, used, '''stock''' springs if they will give enough lift before coil bind. DO NOT ASSEMBLE WITH THE SPRINGS YOU WILL EVENTUALLY RUN if the sppprings are much higher than about 120-130 pounds at the installed height. Keep an old set on the shelf just for running in a new motor, then change them out at the 30 minute mark. Manley makes a lever-type tool for this procedure, to be used with shop air to keep the valve seated. Don't have shop air? You can feed thin rope/cord down the spark plug hole with the piston down away from TDC. After the rope is fed in, carefully rotate the engine so the piston is compressing the rope up against the valve head. Do this on the compression stroke. Or change them out at a buddy's house or have the machine shop do it. Another way is to use a set of reduced-ratio rocker arms for break-in. Crower Cams may have 1.2:1 ratio for SBC and 1.5:1 for BBC, but this needs to be researched. They may be high-buck roller units though, something that might be out of the reach of the home builder who only does one or two builds a year. Somebody needs to step up and make some stamped steel rockers in a reduced ratio that would be affordable for everyone. |
| − | 5. Checking for interference. Nothing will wipe a cam and lifters quicker than mechanical interference in the valvetrain. Check for piston to valve clearance, rocker arm to stud clearance at full lift, spring coil bind (stacking solid) and retainer to valve guide boss clearance at full lift. Also check for pushrod to guide clearance to insure the pushrods are not rubbing or binding. You might have one culprit that you didn't catch, such as a bent pushrod. Roll all pushrods on a piece of plate glass before assembly to insure straightness. See: [http://www.iskycams.com/camshaft.php Installing a Racing Camshaft]. | + | 5. Checking for interference. Nothing will wipe a cam and lifters quicker than mechanical interference in the valvetrain. Check for piston to valve clearance, rocker arm to stud clearance at full lift, spring coil bind (stacking solid) and retainer to valve guide boss clearance at full lift. Also check for pushrod to guide clearance to insure the pushrods are not rubbing or binding. You might have one culprit that you didn't catch, such as a bent pushrod. Roll all pushrods on a piece of plate glass before assembly to insure straightness. See: [http://www.iskycams.com/camshaft.php Installing a Racing Camshaft] and [[Valve train points to check]]. |
| − | 6. Another problem | + | 6. Another problem that can occur if you are not diligent in checking tolerances is tight lifter-to-bore clearance. Failure of the lifters to rotate in the lifter bore will gall the lifter crown/cam lobe in short order, and cam and lifter failure will soon follow. Always oil the lifter bores and lifters when doing mock-up and drop them through the lifter bores. With the lifter bores vertical on the engine stand, the lifters should drop through and fall into your hand with oil on them. If they don't, first inspect the oil gallery holes where they intersect the lifter bores for any raised burrs, etc. Then scrub the lifter bores with a shotgun brass bristle brush and acetone/lacquer thinner to remove all traces of shellac. Just running a rag through the bores is not enough. If the bores are still too tight, hone the lifter bores for additional clearance until they will fall through- only do this if all else fails; too much clearance can reduce oil pressure throughout the engine and is not needed in most cases. The cam grinders are beginning to manufacture their lifters with a shorter radius on the crown to assist in lifter rotation. |
7. These suggestions are brought to you by John Callies of Callies Crankshaft fame: | 7. These suggestions are brought to you by John Callies of Callies Crankshaft fame: | ||
| − | a. Visually inspect for tool chatter and mis-machining. | + | :a. Visually inspect for tool chatter and mis-machining. |
| − | b. Clean the shaft with mineral spirits and dry thoroughly. | + | :b. Clean the shaft with mineral spirits and dry thoroughly. |
| − | c. Use a hand held propane torch and heat the shaft to disperse any moisture. | + | :c. Use a hand held propane torch and heat the shaft to disperse any moisture. |
| − | d. Spray the cam with graphite. | + | :d. Spray the cam with graphite. |
| − | e. Use quality high pressure lube on cam lobes and lifter crowns (Molybdenum Disulfide black goop that comes with the cam and lifters). | + | :e. Use quality high pressure lube on cam lobes and lifter crowns (Molybdenum Disulfide black goop that comes with the cam and lifters). |
| − | f. Select a quality lifter since the market is being saturated with offshore lifters that are soft. | + | :f. Select a quality lifter since the market is being saturated with offshore lifters that are soft. |
| − | g. Make sure on startup the engine is ready to run at 2000-2500 rpm for 20 minutes. ZERO IDLING FOR 20 MINUTES. | + | :g. Make sure on startup the engine is ready to run at 2000-2500 rpm for 20 minutes. ZERO IDLING FOR 20 MINUTES. |
8. Make sure the motor is timed and use a known good carb or other induction system as well as ignition system. The new cam and lifters will not tolerate any grinding on the starter to get the motor fired. They are lubed by splash off the crank at higher engine speeds. Have everything ready to go including having the carb primed with fuel and a fully charged battery. | 8. Make sure the motor is timed and use a known good carb or other induction system as well as ignition system. The new cam and lifters will not tolerate any grinding on the starter to get the motor fired. They are lubed by splash off the crank at higher engine speeds. Have everything ready to go including having the carb primed with fuel and a fully charged battery. | ||
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*[[How to choose a camshaft]] | *[[How to choose a camshaft]] | ||
*[[Determining top dead center]] | *[[Determining top dead center]] | ||
| + | *[[How to make a timing tape]] | ||
[[Category:Engine]] | [[Category:Engine]] | ||
[[Category:Good articles]] | [[Category:Good articles]] | ||
{{youcanedit}} | {{youcanedit}} | ||
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