TH350 rebuild tech

Jump to: navigation, search
(Minor clean up; format.)
Line 1: Line 1:
 
{{youcanedit}}
 
{{youcanedit}}
 +
 +
 
==Overview==
 
==Overview==
 +
 
The GM Turbo Hydra-Matic 350 transmission (aka "T350", THM350 "TH350", "T-350", "Turbo 350", etc.) was used between 1968-'86 in RWD and 4WD GM vehicles in the USA. The T-350 was still produced many years beyond 1986 for 'export sales' only. It is a relatively rugged, compact transmission that lends itself to a wide variety of applications and modifications.
 
The GM Turbo Hydra-Matic 350 transmission (aka "T350", THM350 "TH350", "T-350", "Turbo 350", etc.) was used between 1968-'86 in RWD and 4WD GM vehicles in the USA. The T-350 was still produced many years beyond 1986 for 'export sales' only. It is a relatively rugged, compact transmission that lends itself to a wide variety of applications and modifications.
  
==Basic rebuild information==  
+
==Basic rebuild information==
 +
 
'''NOTE:'''
 
'''NOTE:'''
*This WIKI is not intended to be a replacement for an ATSG or factory tech manual. First time builders will likely need a tech manual. Recommended is Ron Sessions' book "TH350 Handbook" in the HP book series. It has good pictures, a lot of good info, but has some outdated info. Outstanding value for the money.
 
*This is not a step-by step pictorial. That said, the following should help give a better understanding of the T-350 and possibly help when a question arises.
 
  
===Exploded view===
+
*This WIKI is not intended to be a replacement for an ATSG or factory tech manual. First time builders will likely need a tech manual.  
{|
+
|[[File:TH 350 backXL diagram.jpg|thumb|300px|center|Exploded view, "back" of the TH350 transmission.]]
+
  
|[[File:TH 350 front diagram.jpg|thumb|300px|center|Exploded view, "front" of transmission.]]
+
*Recommended is Ron Sessions' book "TH350 Handbook" in the HP book series. It has good pictures, a lot of good info, but has some outdated info. Outstanding value for the money.
|}
+
  
[[File:TH350 exploded.jpg|thumb|300px|none|]]<br style="clear:both"/>
+
*This is not a step-by step pictorial. That said, the following should help give a better understanding of the T-350 and possibly help when a question arises.
  
==TH250C variant==
 
The T-250C has a band adjuster stud and locknut on the passenger side of the case near the cooler lines. It looks much like a T350 other than the adjuster (same physical size, same pan shape), so don't be fooled by it.
 
  
==TH350C variant==
+
==Variations of the T-350 family==
There was also a T-350'''C''' version that has a lockup torque converter (TCC). Look for the end of the input shaft to have a smooth polished end with O-ring on it. The case has a "C" cast into it, and there will be an electrical plug adjacent to the shifter shaft on the driver side of the tranny.  
+
 
 +
There was also a T-350C & T-250C version that has a lockup torque converter (TCC). Look for the end of the input shaft to have a smooth polished end with O-ring on it. The case has a "C" cast into it, and there will be an electrical plug adjacent to the shifter shaft on the driver side of the tranny.  
  
 
Don't confuse the TH350C with a TH350 non-lockup tranny with a screwed-in electrical connector on the ''passenger'' side of the case. This is a pressure switch that was used ~1972-'73 for the Transmission Controlled Spark (TCS) system. This disabled the distributor vacuum advance in all gears except high gear, and is a single wire switch threaded into a pressure port near where the cooler lines are located. In the case of this switch, you can either leave it in place, unused- or remove it and plug the port.  
 
Don't confuse the TH350C with a TH350 non-lockup tranny with a screwed-in electrical connector on the ''passenger'' side of the case. This is a pressure switch that was used ~1972-'73 for the Transmission Controlled Spark (TCS) system. This disabled the distributor vacuum advance in all gears except high gear, and is a single wire switch threaded into a pressure port near where the cooler lines are located. In the case of this switch, you can either leave it in place, unused- or remove it and plug the port.  
  
Only the larger transmission/torque converter companies build high stall torque converters for the T-350C because of the low demand for them.
+
Only the larger Transmission / Converter companies build high stall torque converters for the T-350C because of the low demand for them.
 +
 
 +
The T-250C has a band adjuster stud and locknut on the passenger side of the case near the cooler lines. It looks much like a T350 other than the adjuster (same physical size, same pan shape).
  
 
=Rebuilding the T-350=
 
=Rebuilding the T-350=
  
 
===Bushings and thrust washers===
 
===Bushings and thrust washers===
 +
 
A T-350 is known to be rough on bushings. Bushings are critical in that they allow the rotating parts to ride true on center, and for the lube to make it to the rear of the trans.
 
A T-350 is known to be rough on bushings. Bushings are critical in that they allow the rotating parts to ride true on center, and for the lube to make it to the rear of the trans.
  
Line 41: Line 42:
 
|}
 
|}
  
===Rebuild kits===
 
[[File:Hughes Performance transmission rebuild kit pn HP3288.jpg|thumb|300px|left|Hughes Performance transmission rebuild kit p/n HP3288.]] <br style="clear:both"/>
 
  
 
===Case prep===
 
===Case prep===
Line 48: Line 47:
  
 
===1-2 accumulator===
 
===1-2 accumulator===
 +
 
Photo shows accumulator cover, spring and piston (snap ring not shown). This is located on right side of trans case. Check the bore in the case for scratches or other damage if the spring was found broken.
 
Photo shows accumulator cover, spring and piston (snap ring not shown). This is located on right side of trans case. Check the bore in the case for scratches or other damage if the spring was found broken.
[[file:T-350_acumilator01.jpg|frame|none|Accumulator cover, spring and piston with sealing rings.]]
+
 
 +
[[file:T-350_acumilator01.jpg|frame|none|accumulator cover, spring and piston with sealing rings.]]
  
  
Line 56: Line 57:
 
*Middle port (red) is 2nd gear pressure.
 
*Middle port (red) is 2nd gear pressure.
 
*Front port (blue) is third gear pressure.
 
*Front port (blue) is third gear pressure.
[[file:T-350_acumilator02.jpg|frame|none|Pressure ports circled.]]
+
 
 +
[[file:T-350_acumilator02.jpg|frame|none|pressure ports circled.]]
  
 
=Transmission reassembly=
 
=Transmission reassembly=
 
==Low-reverse piston install==
 
==Low-reverse piston install==
 +
 
The first item to go in the case will be the low/reverse apply piston.
 
The first item to go in the case will be the low/reverse apply piston.
 
Its function is for oil to force it towards the front or bell housing side of the trans, applying the low/reverse clutches. This allows reverse when applied simultaneously with the direct (high gear) clutches, and allows manual low gear when applied with the forward clutches. Manual low gear creates engine braking on deceleration. The low/reverse clutches do not apply in automatic range 1st gear. The low sprag (low roller clutch actually) causes first gear when only the forward clutches are applied.
 
Its function is for oil to force it towards the front or bell housing side of the trans, applying the low/reverse clutches. This allows reverse when applied simultaneously with the direct (high gear) clutches, and allows manual low gear when applied with the forward clutches. Manual low gear creates engine braking on deceleration. The low/reverse clutches do not apply in automatic range 1st gear. The low sprag (low roller clutch actually) causes first gear when only the forward clutches are applied.
Line 83: Line 86:
  
 
==Output shaft install==
 
==Output shaft install==
 +
 
Next you install the output shaft.
 
Next you install the output shaft.
  
Line 95: Line 99:
  
 
==Rear planetary unit install==
 
==Rear planetary unit install==
 +
 
Next goes in the output planetary to output ring gear bearing or thrust washer (depending on year).
 
Next goes in the output planetary to output ring gear bearing or thrust washer (depending on year).
  
Line 133: Line 138:
  
 
==Install drive shell and front planetary unit==
 
==Install drive shell and front planetary unit==
 +
 
Drop the sun shell/gear in, spinning in the output carrier until it falls in place.
 
Drop the sun shell/gear in, spinning in the output carrier until it falls in place.
 
[[file:TH350inputplanetthrust.jpg|frame|none|This shows drive shell installed with planet and thrust washer in place.]]
 
[[file:TH350inputplanetthrust.jpg|frame|none|This shows drive shell installed with planet and thrust washer in place.]]
Line 142: Line 148:
  
  
Now, To prevent excessive end play, a pump thrust washer can be installed on top of the input planet, then the regular thrust washer. Then install the small outside snap ring to hold it all in place.
+
To prevent excessive end play, a pump thrust washer can be installed on top of the input planet, then the regular thrust washer. Then install the small outside snap ring to hold it all in place.
 
Check the output shaft for proper rotation, there will be some drag, especially in one direction.
 
Check the output shaft for proper rotation, there will be some drag, especially in one direction.
 
Check for excessive output end play. If end play is excessive, it can be tightened up by dis-assembling and shimming up the output ring gear bearing from the case.
 
Check for excessive output end play. If end play is excessive, it can be tightened up by dis-assembling and shimming up the output ring gear bearing from the case.
Line 156: Line 162:
 
For racing and heavy towing use, you will want to machine the direct clutch piston down approximately 0.160" to allow for one extra friction and steel plate for a total of 5 frictions, and 5 steels in the directs. This can be accomplished on a brake lathe.
 
For racing and heavy towing use, you will want to machine the direct clutch piston down approximately 0.160" to allow for one extra friction and steel plate for a total of 5 frictions, and 5 steels in the directs. This can be accomplished on a brake lathe.
  
Stock measurement is  0.835", I cut them to 0.700". Ideally you would pre-assemble, and check clearance using a 4 clutch pack. Measure the additional thickness of the extra friction and steel, then cut the exact amount needed to leave you the exact clearance you desire. Rule of thumb on most auto trans friction clearances is ~0.010" clearance per friction. So a 5 friction direct setup would work great with 0.050"  to 0.070" clearance. It will work with less, I wouldn't go less than 0.040", and will work with quite a bit more, but excessive clearance can result in delayed engagement, busted lip seals, and unsatisfactory shift quality.
+
Stock measurement is  0.835", machine the piston to 0.700". Ideally you would pre-assemble, and check clearance using a 4 clutch pack. Measure the additional thickness of the extra friction and steel, then cut the exact amount needed to leave you the exact clearance you desire. Rule of thumb on most auto trans friction clearances is 0.010" clearance per friction. So a 5 friction direct setup would work great with 0.050"  to 0.070" clearance. It will work with less, no less than 0.040", and will work with quite a bit more, but excessive clearance can result in delayed engagement, busted lip seals, and unsatisfactory shift quality.
  
 
If the piston is too low, the bottom flat steel plate can drop below the grooves in the drum and bind up the piston. You can leave out center cushion seal if dual feed is used.  
 
If the piston is too low, the bottom flat steel plate can drop below the grooves in the drum and bind up the piston. You can leave out center cushion seal if dual feed is used.  
Line 173: Line 179:
 
   
 
   
  
I also like to always use a NEW intermediate roller clutch for HD builds. My theory on a long lived setup is that the springs that force the rollers against the race must be in good condition to help the rollers grab quicker and more evenly on apply.
+
It is recommended to always use a new intermediate roller clutch for HD builds. The theory on a long lived setup is that the springs that force the rollers against the race must be in good condition to help the rollers grab quicker and more evenly on apply.
  
 
The parts go on the direct drum.
 
The parts go on the direct drum.
Line 203: Line 209:
  
 
==Dual feeding==
 
==Dual feeding==
 +
 
This is part of the process of "dual-feeding" the direct clutches. On a stock rebuild you would normally install this lip seal.
 
This is part of the process of "dual-feeding" the direct clutches. On a stock rebuild you would normally install this lip seal.
  
Line 208: Line 215:
  
 
===Dual Feed direct drum===
 
===Dual Feed direct drum===
 +
 
Dual feeding doubles the area of the piston that has pressurized fluid on it in 3rd gear, more than doubling the capacity of the clutch. It is accomplished by most valve body kits without doing so internally but requires a "transfer" plate and gasket to be added under the support plate in front of the valve body.
 
Dual feeding doubles the area of the piston that has pressurized fluid on it in 3rd gear, more than doubling the capacity of the clutch. It is accomplished by most valve body kits without doing so internally but requires a "transfer" plate and gasket to be added under the support plate in front of the valve body.
  
I prefer internally dual feeding because it leave out the additional gasket and eliminates that one extra possibility for a pressure loss resulting in burnt 3rd gear clutches (yes it has happened to me).
+
Internally dual feeding is preferred  because it leaves out the additional gasket and eliminates that one extra possibility for a pressure loss resulting in burnt 3rd gear clutches.
 
All transbrakes will require dual feed of the direct clutch, as well as many manual valve bodies.
 
All transbrakes will require dual feed of the direct clutch, as well as many manual valve bodies.
  
Shown below is the passage that must be blocked. I usually tap this hole with a 3/8" tap, and cut off the end of a 3/8" bolt. I then slot the head of the bolt so I can use a flat-tip screwdriver.
+
Shown below is the passage that must be blocked. One method is to tap this hole with a 3/8" tap, and cut off the end of a 3/8" bolt. I then slot the head of the bolt so I can use a flat-tip screwdriver.
  
I don't thread the passage completely to bottom. I want the "plug" to seat on the unthreaded portion.
+
Don't thread the passage completely to bottom. It's best to have the "plug" to seat on the unthreaded portion.
  
 
This passage may also be plugged by using a roller from a direct drum or sprag to drive into the passage, but this will be a more or less permanent modification due to the difficulty in removing the roller.
 
This passage may also be plugged by using a roller from a direct drum or sprag to drive into the passage, but this will be a more or less permanent modification due to the difficulty in removing the roller.
Line 228: Line 236:
 
You can omit the center seal, plug this passage, enlarge the 2nd and 3rd feed holes in the stock separator plate and you will have greatly increased the torque capacity of a stock TH350 as well as gained a firmer shift.
 
You can omit the center seal, plug this passage, enlarge the 2nd and 3rd feed holes in the stock separator plate and you will have greatly increased the torque capacity of a stock TH350 as well as gained a firmer shift.
  
Even firmer shifts can be accomplished with check ball removal and modifications to the accumulators. I recommend NOT modifying the 1-2 accumulator. Retain the cushion spring and do not block the circuit. The 2-3 accumulator can be blocked by several methods.
+
Even firmer shifts can be accomplished with check ball removal and modifications to the accumulators. It is recommend to NOT modify the 1-2 accumulator. Retain the cushion spring and do not block the circuit. The 2-3 accumulator can be blocked by several methods.
  
 
Removing the 2-3 accumulator spring and using a spacer (nut, washers, cut down section of tubing) between the piston and the E-clip is the "shade tree' method. You can also block the feed in the valve body to the 2-3 accumulator.
 
Removing the 2-3 accumulator spring and using a spacer (nut, washers, cut down section of tubing) between the piston and the E-clip is the "shade tree' method. You can also block the feed in the valve body to the 2-3 accumulator.
  
Installing the direct piston will require some patience, a lip seal installed or 0.010" feeler gauge, and a trick I use is a section of plastic cut from a 3 liter soda bottle to use as an outside installer tool. Set it in the drum, and it will force the lip seal into the drum without using a tool around the entire circumference. You may however need to work the exposed part of the seal into the drum with the feeler gauge or seal tool.
+
Installing the direct piston will require some patience, a lip seal installed or 0.010" feeler gauge, and a trick to use is a section of plastic cut from a 3 liter soda bottle to use as an outside installer tool. Set it in the drum, and it will force the lip seal into the drum without using a tool around the entire circumference. You may however need to work the exposed part of the seal into the drum with the feeler gauge or seal tool.
  
Use care using the lip seal tool, I use a push-in technique more than a work-around-the-drum technique. If you slide around the drum, and it catches the seal it will cut it and then you must get a new lip seal and start again. Good lighting, patience, and technique are key here, and a good air check.
+
Use care using the lip seal tool, use a push-in technique more than a work-around-the-drum technique. If you slide around the drum, and it catches the seal it will cut it and then you must get a new lip seal and start again. Good lighting, patience, and technique are key here, and a good air check.
  
Once you have the piston seated in the drum you can install the return springs and retainer. You can buy or make a tool similar to the one pictured below, or use 2 or 3, 5" or larger C-clamps (much more of a PITA).
+
Once you have the piston seated in the drum you can install the return springs and retainer. You can buy or make a tool similar to the one pictured below, or use 2 or 3, 5" or larger C-clamps .
  
 
[[file:TH350directspringtool.jpg]]
 
[[file:TH350directspringtool.jpg]]
Line 242: Line 250:
  
 
===Forward drum inspection===
 
===Forward drum inspection===
 +
 
Forward drum procedures are almost identical. No center seal to worry about on a TH350, it typically already has a 5 clutch pack, except light duty applications. Same 0.700" thickness piston for 5 frictions and steels. Removing the wave plate will cause harsh forward engagement. Reduce clearance of the stack to 0.040".
 
Forward drum procedures are almost identical. No center seal to worry about on a TH350, it typically already has a 5 clutch pack, except light duty applications. Same 0.700" thickness piston for 5 frictions and steels. Removing the wave plate will cause harsh forward engagement. Reduce clearance of the stack to 0.040".
  
Line 276: Line 285:
  
  
This is an example of how I air check the forward and direct drum. After everything is assembled, I place the drums on the pump (above a hole in the bench) with all sealing rings in place, thrust washers or bearings.
+
This is an example of to air check the forward and direct drum. After everything is assembled, I place the drums on the pump (above a hole in the bench) with all sealing rings in place, thrust washers or bearings.
  
 
Use a rubber tipped air nozzle to apply air to the passages around the pump circumference. As you apply air to the correct passages, you will see and hear the drums apply the clutches. Be sure there are no leaks from the lip seals. There will usually be some minor leakage at the sealing rings. Iron rings air check better than teflon on the bench.
 
Use a rubber tipped air nozzle to apply air to the passages around the pump circumference. As you apply air to the correct passages, you will see and hear the drums apply the clutches. Be sure there are no leaks from the lip seals. There will usually be some minor leakage at the sealing rings. Iron rings air check better than teflon on the bench.
Line 328: Line 337:
  
 
==Shift point changes==
 
==Shift point changes==
===Modulator adjustment===
 
[[File:B&M Governor recalibration kit.jpg|thumb|300px|left|B&M governor recalibration kit.]] <br style="clear:both"/>
 
  
The following is from Dean Mason of TransLab Engineering:
+
===Governor adjustment===
  
<Blockquote>  Modulator adjustment is not about setting the shift timing where you want it, especially at max throttle. Modulator is for LINE PRESSURE BOOST, and here's how it works:</Blockquote>
+
Shift point changes made via the governor weights and springs. Stronger springs and heavier weights will bring earlier shift points. Lighter springs and weights have the opposite affect.
  
<Blockquote>  The modulator is a spring loaded vacuum canister. At high vacuum, the force of vacuum opposes/cancels out the spring force. As vacuum drops, the spring exerts an increasingly greater force against the modulator valve, until at near zero vacuum maximum line pressure boost is achieved.</Blockquote>
+
The springs have a greater affect on shift points at light throttle. After about 5/8 throttle the weights have more affect on shift points. Gear ratio and tire size will also play  apart of the shift points and changes made.
  
<Blockquote>  Now, line pressure boost is needed when torque is increased, so that clutches and bands won't slip. But we don't need boost sitting in park or neutral idling in the parking lot. This just causes premature pump gear and sealing ring wear. Therefore, line pressure should not be boosted at idle. If you use your car as a daily driver, the best setting is that which provides maximum boost during acceleration without unnecessarily high line pressure when it is not needed. That is, NO BOOST AT IDLE, BUT AS SOON AS YOU BEGIN TO ACCELERATE (that is, you drop 1" of vacuum off idle) you want RAPID/RESPONSIVE BOOST.</Blockquote> 
+
[[File:B&M Governor recalibration kit.jpg|thumb|300px|left|B&M governor recalibration kit.]] <br style="clear:both"/>
 
+
<Blockquote>  Here's what you need to know:
+
WHAT IS THE VACUUM READING AT IDLE IN DRIVE?
+
The following work is most easily done on a lift with all 4 wheels off the ground and the emergency brake firmly locked!</Blockquote>
+
 
+
<Blockquote>  We want the engine fully warmed up for this test, and take the reading at the ''tranny'' end of the vacuum line. Unplug the modulator hose from the vacuum modulator assembly. Attach a vacuum gauge to the hose. Start the engine, turn on the air conditioner, put the shifter in DRIVE, and write down the vacuum reading on the gauge.</Blockquote> 
+
 
+
<Blockquote>  Next, get yourself a pocket screwdriver and a new modulator "elbow" (keep the elbow in your pocket). INSTALL PRESSURE GAUGE ON MAIN LINE PORT. Plug the engine side of the vacuum line (so you won't have a vacuum leak). Get a hand operated vacuum pump and attach it to the modulator. Get your little screwdriver and punch it thru the rubber hose (yes that's right!) about 1/2" behind the modulator stem. This way you can adjust your modulator inside the hose with it attached and the engine running!</Blockquote>
+
 
+
<Blockquote>  Now, what was the vacuum reading you wrote down? Let’s say your engine pulls 16 in/Hg in D, HOT, with AC on. We want to drop ONE in/Hg of vacuum, then start to increase line pressure. So, start the engine (neutral is OK for this part), raise idle to 800-1000 rpm, and pump up 15" on your vacuum pump (you may need someone to help maintain a steady 15" on the pump with the screwdriver punched thru the hose due to very minor leakage). </Blockquote>
+
 
+
<Blockquote>  Typically a SBC 350 will run about 60-65 psi at idle, but there are variations in PR springs. If it is much higher, back the modulator adjustment out until there is no more "drop" on the gauge. Now, start to screw IN on the modulator adjuster until you see the pressure gauge start to lift and STOP right there. To check this, pump up 20", watch gauge and start to bleed vacuum off very slowly and the gauge should start to increase exactly at 15".</Blockquote>
+
 
+
<Blockquote>  If you took your initial readings correctly, you now have a perfectly adjusted modulator. For a slightly steeper boost rate with higher max line pressure, use a 2" modulator instead of the 1 9/16" can size and adjust it exactly as described here. Once you have set it this way you are finished with the adjustment procedure.</Blockquote>
+
 
+
===Detent cable adjustment===
+
<Blockquote>  Unclip the cable locking mechanism and then press the accelerator pedal to the floor. Be sure there's nothing under the pedal and the linkage is allowing full throttle at the carb. Floorboard the gas pedal and the detent cable should just pull tight as the throttle reaches wide open. THAT'S IT! If it doesn't pull tight, readjust, bend bracket, or whatever is necessary to achieve this. If it doesn't pull tight you will not have full detent at wide open throttle. If it pulls tight BEFORE full throttle, you'll break the cable end.</Blockquote>
+
 
+
<Blockquote>  Now that the detent and modulator are set correctly, we are ready to think about shift scheduling. Road test the car. You will need to know minimum and maximum throttle shift speeds for the 1-2 and 2-3 shifts, the RPM for the max throttle shifts, and the highest speed you can get a 3-1 and a 3-2 kick down. Also, what is the [http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/Gear_ratio_check axle ratio].</Blockquote>
+
 
+
<Blockquote>  From this point we work with governor weights, springs, and shift valve springs.</Blockquote>
+
 
+
{|
+
|[[File:Kickdown1.jpg|thumb|180px|center|Unlock detent clip by prying up on it.]]
+
|[[File:Kickdown2.jpg|thumb|180px|center|Clip in unlocked position.]]
+
|[[File:Kickdown3.jpg|thumb|180px|center|Open throttle (should be done from inside the car to assure proper travel).]]
+
|[[File:Kickdown4.jpg|thumb|180px|center|Push clip down to lock.]]
+
|}
+
  
 
==Filter==
 
==Filter==
Line 374: Line 353:
  
 
==Fastener size and torque values==
 
==Fastener size and torque values==
 +
 
*Pump Cover to Pump Body- (5/16-18) 15 ft/lb
 
*Pump Cover to Pump Body- (5/16-18) 15 ft/lb
*Pump assembly to case- (5/16-18) 20 ft/lb
+
*Pump assembly to case- (5/16-18) 15 ft/lb
*Valve body and support plate- (5/16-18) 13 ft/lb
+
*Valve body and support plate- (5/16-18) 10 ft/lb
*Oil channel support plate to case- (5/16-18) 13 ft/lb
+
*Oil channel support plate to case- (5/16-18) 10 ft/lb
*Parking lock bracket- (5/16-18) 29 ft/lb
+
*Parking lock bracket- (5/16-18) 20 ft/lb
 
*Oil suction screen- 40 in/lb
 
*Oil suction screen- 40 in/lb
*Oil pan to case- (5/16-18) 13 ft/lb
+
*Oil pan to case- (5/16-18) 10-12 ft/lb
 
*Extension housing to case- (3/8-16) 35 ft/lb
 
*Extension housing to case- (3/8-16) 35 ft/lb
 
*Modulator retainer to case- (5/16-18) 12 ft/lb
 
*Modulator retainer to case- (5/16-18) 12 ft/lb
Line 394: Line 374:
  
 
====Oil cooler line connectors to transmission case====
 
====Oil cooler line connectors to transmission case====
*Straight Pipe Fitting-25 ft/lb
+
 
 +
*Straight Pipe Fitting-20 ft/lb
 
*Tapered Pipe Fitting- 15 ft/lb
 
*Tapered Pipe Fitting- 15 ft/lb
 
*Oil Cooler Pipe to Connectors- 10 ft/lb
 
*Oil Cooler Pipe to Connectors- 10 ft/lb
  
 
====Other torque values====
 
====Other torque values====
 +
 
*Gearshift bracket to frame- 15 ft/lb
 
*Gearshift bracket to frame- 15 ft/lb
 
*Gearshift Shaft to Swivel- 20 ft/lb
 
*Gearshift Shaft to Swivel- 20 ft/lb
Line 404: Line 386:
 
*Detent Cable to Transmission- 75 in/lb
 
*Detent Cable to Transmission- 75 in/lb
 
*Intermediate Band Adjust Nut- 15 ft/lb
 
*Intermediate Band Adjust Nut- 15 ft/lb
 
==Fluid level==
 
If the dipstick is missing or not correct, the fluid level should be from even with the pan to ¼” above the pan when the fluid is hot.
 
  
 
==T-350 dimensions and tailshaft (extension housing) lengths==
 
==T-350 dimensions and tailshaft (extension housing) lengths==
 +
 
[[File:TH350 dimensions.jpg|thumb|left|400px|]]<br style="clear:both"/>
 
[[File:TH350 dimensions.jpg|thumb|left|400px|]]<br style="clear:both"/>
  
Line 416: Line 396:
  
 
==Gear ratios==
 
==Gear ratios==
 +
 
Ratios of the T-350 were consistent throughout its production:
 
Ratios of the T-350 were consistent throughout its production:
  
Line 428: Line 409:
  
 
==Reference material==
 
==Reference material==
 +
 
[[File:Sessions- ATSG-Haynes manuals.jpg|thumb|600px|left|Left to right: [http://www.amazon.com/Turbo-Hydra-Matic-350-Handbook-Sessions/dp/0895860511 Turbo Hydra-Matic 350 Handbook] by Ron Sessions; [http://www.northernautoparts.com/ProductModelDetail.cfm?ProductModelId=786 ATSG manual] p/n 44400; Haynes [http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1563924234/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_1?pf_rd_p=486539851&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=0895860511&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0J4A1QHT1Y8B032P3Z6P GM Automatic Transmission Overhaul] manual, p/n 10360.]] <br style="clear:both"/>
 
[[File:Sessions- ATSG-Haynes manuals.jpg|thumb|600px|left|Left to right: [http://www.amazon.com/Turbo-Hydra-Matic-350-Handbook-Sessions/dp/0895860511 Turbo Hydra-Matic 350 Handbook] by Ron Sessions; [http://www.northernautoparts.com/ProductModelDetail.cfm?ProductModelId=786 ATSG manual] p/n 44400; Haynes [http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1563924234/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_1?pf_rd_p=486539851&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=0895860511&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0J4A1QHT1Y8B032P3Z6P GM Automatic Transmission Overhaul] manual, p/n 10360.]] <br style="clear:both"/>
  
'''NOTE:''' The Sessions and ATSG manuals are the preferred texts.
 
  
==Resources==
 
*[http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=53671 An original article by Jakeshoe]
 
  
 
[[Category:Transmission]]
 
[[Category:Transmission]]
 
[[Category:Good articles]]
 
[[Category:Good articles]]

Revision as of 07:01, 26 March 2012

Personal tools
Namespaces
Variants
Actions
Navigation
Categories
Toolbox