Swapping to rack and pinion steering
(Minor clean up; format image) |
(Minor clean up; format images) |
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==Inner bracket/inner tie rod mount== | ==Inner bracket/inner tie rod mount== | ||
| − | One thing not covered yet, is the angle of the mount for your rack. We chose to rotate the rack until the steering sector was pointed at the end of our steering column. This made a fairly straight on connection for the intermediate steering column link, with no extreme | + | One thing not covered yet, is the angle of the mount for your rack. We chose to rotate the rack until the steering sector was pointed at the end of our steering column. This made a fairly straight-on connection for the intermediate steering column link, with no extreme angles to deal with. It also made the connecting link less than 11 inches long, including the U joints, so no supporting heim joint was necessary. It did however, require the center bracket to be built with an angle included in the mount. On the first bracket we built (we made the mistake of fabricating the bracket before we changed the steering arms), we had the mounts offset from the center of the rack. A 1 inch plate is necessary to move the bracket out beyond the bellows. Then we ground out a portion of a 1 inch square tube and welded it at an angle to the 1 inch plate. |
| − | [[Image:Offset_bracket_side_view.jpg| | + | {| |
| − | [[Image:Offset_center_bracket.jpg| | + | |[[Image:Offset_bracket_side_view.jpg|thumb|center|360px|End view of a bracket with height and angle offset from original mounting position]] |
| + | |[[Image:Offset_center_bracket.jpg|thumb|center|380px|Front view of the offset bracket]] | ||
| + | |} | ||
In the final install, we needed the mounts to be nearly in plane with the original mounting holes. This changed the design completely. | In the final install, we needed the mounts to be nearly in plane with the original mounting holes. This changed the design completely. | ||
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Rather than weld the flat bar at an angle, we chose to drill the mounting holes at an angle and then weld in some grade 8 12mm bolts for the cavalier inner mount to fasten too. | Rather than weld the flat bar at an angle, we chose to drill the mounting holes at an angle and then weld in some grade 8 12mm bolts for the cavalier inner mount to fasten too. | ||
| − | [[Image:Straight_thru_bracket.jpg| | + | [[Image:Straight_thru_bracket.jpg|thumb|left|350px|Nearly straight through, but at an adjusted angle. Note that the mount compensates for the rack being about 1/2 inch off center in the car.]] <br style="clear:both"/> |
Rather than use the original Cavalier tie rods, you may decide to build the tie rods out of tubing with adjustable tie rods on each end. You will need a tapered reamer for this operation. | Rather than use the original Cavalier tie rods, you may decide to build the tie rods out of tubing with adjustable tie rods on each end. You will need a tapered reamer for this operation. | ||
| − | [[Image:Power_rack_install_rear_view.jpg | + | {| |
| + | |[[Image:Power_rack_install_rear_view.jpg|thumb|350px|center|Power rack installed, rear view]] | ||
| + | |[[Image:Rack_front_view.jpg|thumb|350px|center|Power rack installed front view]] | ||
| + | |} | ||
| − | [[Image: | + | [[Image:Original_cavalier_inner_tie_rods.jpg|thumb|550px|center|Installation using original Cavalier inner tie rods and fabricated bracket]] <br style="clear:both"/> |
| − | + | ==Steering linkage== | |
| − | + | ||
| − | ==Steering linkage | + | |
The original steering (37-57 BOP) consists of a manual box and the steering sector is a solid shaft all the way to the steering wheel. If you shorten the original column, be sure to relocate the end centering bearing in the shortened portion. If you cut off an early BOP column, there will be no centering bearing to use. Since the original column outer diameter is only 1 ½ inches, I believe you will have to fabricate the centering bearing holder. | The original steering (37-57 BOP) consists of a manual box and the steering sector is a solid shaft all the way to the steering wheel. If you shorten the original column, be sure to relocate the end centering bearing in the shortened portion. If you cut off an early BOP column, there will be no centering bearing to use. Since the original column outer diameter is only 1 ½ inches, I believe you will have to fabricate the centering bearing holder. | ||
We took this opportunity to convert to a tilt column. Late 70’s to early 80’s GM vans have a nice clean column, 2 inch diameter. No key (it was on the dash) and look right at home in most old cars. This column has self canceling turn signals and in our case, (automatic trans) a lighted gear shift indicator and neutral safety switch. We were lucky enough to find a tilt column, but they are getting rare. (After markets always available from Flaming River etc.). A few general observations. The straighter and more direct you can make your steering linkage, the better. There is an excellent article here on steering linkage - Steering shaft assemblies from junkyard parts – or you can order up the pieces from Borgeson et. al. Different columns have different output shafts, so check carefully before ordering. | We took this opportunity to convert to a tilt column. Late 70’s to early 80’s GM vans have a nice clean column, 2 inch diameter. No key (it was on the dash) and look right at home in most old cars. This column has self canceling turn signals and in our case, (automatic trans) a lighted gear shift indicator and neutral safety switch. We were lucky enough to find a tilt column, but they are getting rare. (After markets always available from Flaming River etc.). A few general observations. The straighter and more direct you can make your steering linkage, the better. There is an excellent article here on steering linkage - Steering shaft assemblies from junkyard parts – or you can order up the pieces from Borgeson et. al. Different columns have different output shafts, so check carefully before ordering. | ||
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