Rewiring a vehicle
(→Installation Of The New Harness) |
(→Installation Of The New Harness) |
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Continue Soldering the rest of your Device / Harness Connections until complete. | Continue Soldering the rest of your Device / Harness Connections until complete. | ||
| + | Inspect your work, Be vigil for Chafing problems, good insulation, proper bonding and soldering, add Adel Clamps where required, (for proper strain relief, attach an adel about 3 inches from where a harness must exit or enter a bulkhead, make a curve, or attach to a device.)Check for proper clearance from heat producing parts, and rotating parts, Fuel and Hydraulic lines, or anything that can hook and cut the wire. | ||
| + | Now is a good time to clear the work area of tools , Excess wire, parts, anything that can heat and burn you or the harness (like Soldering irons, heat guns Etc..)Then sit with your Notes, and make a "Line Drawing" Start with a single line which will be a power buss, then run a line from it to the fuse to the switchgear, to the device to ground... | ||
| − | Furthermore it is suggested that a maxi fuse is installed rather than a fusible link and | + | Do the same for the whole diagram...You can get Software to MAKE your own schematic on your computer , (some on-line for free, some can be purchased). This is where all your notes and line drawing will merge into a single easy to read schematic..And will be useful in the future. |
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| + | Next, One last time, Ring or Continuity Check your harness point to point with an OHM meter or ring box..make SURE your connections are correct, and conducting, and conform to your line drawing (you can do both steps at the same time.) Once you confirm all is correct, you can power test the system. | ||
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| + | Much has been said about this, some makers recommend a Battery Charger to test with..I do NOT advocate this..While a Battery charger will run a DC motor or lamps quite well, They are NOT well filtered! | ||
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| + | They (usually ) Consist of a 1/2 wave rectifier System with no Capacitive Filtering..This means 30 Cycles of the 60 cycle AC from the wall plug escapes into your system, Creating a "Ripple" in the DC..AGain, not a problem in a motor or lamp, but can destroy a Digital radio, Amp, ECU, ECM, Some Alternators, Some Regulators..and the like. | ||
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| + | My First recommendation is, A Bench supply that has a Current adjustment as well as an adjustable voltage control, Is fused, and regulated..Not everybody will have one , or be able to afford one, Maybe borrow one..With one of these, it allows you to apply power , with the current and Voltage controls at zero..you then can adjust the voltage to 14.2, THEN slowly bring up the Current..IF YOU HAVE A SHORT, the AMP meter will shoot up rapidly, as you apply small amounts of current.In this manner you can turn the supply off LONG before ANY damage will occur..and correct the problem, AND if it exceeds the maximum draw for the supply, it will trip the fuse. | ||
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| + | As I said, Not everybody will have one, My second recommendation is a Motorcycle battery (Not a Big Harley Battery, a small hold in your hand Honda type battery) Install a 30 amp fuse link on the positive , and (if your meter supports it) use your meter in line to monitor Current. At this point you will be doing no "High Current testing" so you should be good. If not a Motorcycle battery, Two parallel Connected LANTERN battery's should last long enough to do some primary testing. | ||
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| + | Lastly, If you MUST, use a Battery charger, BUT Disconnect ANY electronics you have, CD player, Tach, ECU, ECM, Alternator, Regulator, Digital dash displays, Anything Solid state to avoid damage. | ||
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| + | Whatever System approach you take, Test for functionality, correct any errors you may find. | ||
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| + | Furthermore it is suggested that a maxi fuse is installed rather than a fusible link. A lot of this is personal preferance...I advocate a Fuse link, Simply because , in my opinion, It is too easy to pop an New MAXI back into the socket and avoid the REAL Problem..What took it out? A fuse link MUST be cut, Repaired, Soldered and heat Shrunk back into place to be repaired..This will motivate you to look into WHY it went out. | ||
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| + | Fuse links , unlike Fuses DO NOT just blow..Something MAJOR is wrong! AND it was wrong LONG enough to MELT wire..unlike a 5 amp radio Fuse that See's a 7 amp spike and opens a few times a year..It took a 50, 70 or 100 amp SHORT a few Seconds / minutes to melt the link..Not a small issue. FIND OUT WHY! | ||
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| + | In either Case , A MAXI and Fuse Link DO the same job..A 70 amp MAXI is the same as a 70 Amp Link. What is Important on Either, is NEVER install them INSIDE a passenger compartment..THEY do their job by heating and melting..and can cause fires to interior parts, melt plastic parts, and create toxic fumes in a closed compartment. Always Install them in the Engine Bay AWAY from Fuel, Hydraulic or other flammables. | ||
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| + | While some wiring harness's recommend the main power come off the starter live connection, running the wire straight to a Single Insulated battery terminal post can be a better way to go. Such a case would be an off-road vehicle where water or mud could cause problems if the main power wire is connected to the starter. | ||
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| + | You Should have a Trouble free Harness that will last Forever.. | ||
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