Rewiring a vehicle
(→Scratch Built Harness) |
(→Installation Of The New Harness) |
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Once you have your wiring harness and your old wires removed, your first step is to install the fuse block. Many fuse blocks connect to the factory bulkhead connector with bolts, in other cases the fuse block may need to be screwed or bolted to the firewall or another secure location. If the Fuse block is a firewall pass through type, SEAL the edges with a GOOD Water, dust and Vapor type sealer, OR electricians Putty. | Once you have your wiring harness and your old wires removed, your first step is to install the fuse block. Many fuse blocks connect to the factory bulkhead connector with bolts, in other cases the fuse block may need to be screwed or bolted to the firewall or another secure location. If the Fuse block is a firewall pass through type, SEAL the edges with a GOOD Water, dust and Vapor type sealer, OR electricians Putty. | ||
| − | The next step is to begin routing your wires. While doing this keep in mind any sharp areas that may sever a wire, Where ever you encounter such an area, Install Rubber matting, anti~Chafe or a proper Grommet to the area and secure the wires as Securely as possible using a Rubberized Metallic Adel clamp, Tech or Sheetmetal screw and lock washer. This procedure will prevent the wiring from deteriorating from Vibration and stress chafing. | + | #The next step is to begin routing your wires. While doing this keep in mind any sharp areas that may sever a wire, Where ever you encounter such an area, Install Rubber matting, anti~Chafe or a proper Grommet to the area and secure the wires as Securely as possible using a Rubberized Metallic Adel clamp, Tech or Sheetmetal screw and lock washer. This procedure will prevent the wiring from deteriorating from Vibration and stress chafing. |
| + | #Begin by routing your longest wires first and working in a Counter clockwise fashion working back to the center (firewall). Make Notes and drawings That correspond to your routing / wire functions, and any special Items that may require attention. | ||
| + | #Locate all your remote ground areas, such as Headlight and tail light Buckets, Fuel Sender / Tank Grounds , and any local grounding areas..Clean and Burnish all paint, dirt,and grease from these areas, install a proper ground, using a Star washer, lock washer, Tech or Sheetmetal Screw. | ||
| + | #Next, Build / Install your ground Buss System. To do that: | ||
| + | #Run a properly gauged Ground cable (4 gauge or better) from the battery to any handy bolt at or near the starter, From that same bolt get a Battery cable at the parts store, that has two 3/8 ring terminals on each end and attach it there and to the Frame following the shortest run possible. | ||
| + | #Next get some 10 gauge wire and ring terminals, and run that from your bolt on the block to the Firewall, and another to the Alternator bracket or mount bolt. | ||
| + | #Next get some Wire Braid, (Electronics store) and install braid from the radiator support to the frame, Fenderwells to frame , hood to firewall, Doors to door posts, gas flap to body, Gas tank to frame , tailgate / Trunk to body. | ||
| + | #At each point the wire is grounded, Burnish ALL the paint and grease off to bare metal. Use a proper star-washer and lock. Use sheetmetal or Tech screws where no screws are available. | ||
| + | #When done properly, all the grounds in the buss system should terminate at the same mount point AT or NEAR the starter. | ||
| + | #Once these wires are routed and secured you can begin attaching the Device wires to their Devices. The following order is recommended tail lights/fuel gauge sender, headlight/horn, engine compartment, interior lights/speakers, power windows and locks, heater and stereo, dashboard. | ||
| + | #Keep in mind that certain connectors are not easy to find new, therefore in some cases you must solder or crimp an old pigtail onto the new wire. To do that properly, set up your soldering station, Heat shrink gun and tubing, and your other soldering hand tools in the area of work.. | ||
| + | #Measure the wires From the Device, as well as the wires from the Harness to overlap about 3 inches in each direction. (leave enough wire slack for devices like lamp sockets that must be removed to change a bulb..Etc..) Then Trim and Strip so they will overlap about 3 inches, add shrink tubing to the wire, sliding it FAR enough back so as not to prematurely shrink it with heat from the solder joint..Then Wrap your wire, first clockwise, then counter clockwise until you have a good SECURE mechanical joint (Tug test it..) | ||
| + | #Trim excess "Whiskers" from it and smooth as well as possible. Then Apply Heat, and Solder to the wire..heat at one end, solder at the other..and solder until it flows from one end to the other, (Do not "Glob" it..It should resemble the wire bare, except be silver..) | ||
| + | #Inspect your joint..It should cover the bare wire 360 degrees, from insulation to insulation, (insulation should not be burned or charred, if so reduce tip heat) and be bright Silver to be a good joint. If it is a dull gray, you have a "Cold Solder joint" that will corrode, crack and not properly conduct..start the process again using more heat or heating time. | ||
| + | #If satisfied with your joint, Slide your tubing down over the joint, and using your heat gun, shrink it down to It's proper gauge. Hold the wire Straight until it has cooled or it will take on the "Droop" of the angle it had while cooling. If you need a Pre~Bent joint, hold it at that angle until cool, it will maintain that angle. | ||
| + | #Continue Soldering the rest of your Device / Harness Connections until complete. | ||
| + | #Inspect your work, Be vigil for Chafing problems, good insulation, proper bonding and soldering, add Adel Clamps where required, (for proper strain relief, attach an adel about 3 inches from where a harness must exit or enter a bulkhead, make a curve, or attach to a device.)Check for proper clearance from heat producing parts, and rotating parts, Fuel and Hydraulic lines, or anything that can hook and cut the wire. | ||
| + | #Now is a good time to clear the work area of tools , Excess wire, parts, anything that can heat and burn you or the harness (like Soldering irons, heat guns Etc..)Then sit with your Notes, and make a "Line Drawing" Start with a single line which will be a power buss, then run a line from it to the fuse to the switchgear, to the device to ground... | ||
| + | #Do the same for the whole diagram...You can get Software to MAKE your own schematic on your computer , (some on-line for free, some can be purchased). This is where all your notes and line drawing will merge into a single easy to read schematic..And will be useful in the future. | ||
| + | #Next, One last time, Ring or Continuity Check your harness point to point with an OHM meter or ring box..make SURE your connections are correct, and conducting, and conform to your line drawing (you can do both steps at the same time.) Once you confirm all is correct, you can power test the system. | ||
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| − | + | Much has been said about this, some makers recommend a Battery Charger to test with..I do NOT advocate this..While a Battery charger will run a DC motor or lamps quite well, They are NOT well filtered! | |
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| − | + | They (usually ) Consist of a 1/2 wave rectifier System with no Capacitive Filtering..This means 30 Cycles of the 60 cycle AC from the wall plug escapes into your system, Creating a "Ripple" in the DC..AGain, not a problem in a motor or lamp, but can destroy a Digital radio, Amp, ECU, ECM, Some Alternators, Some Regulators..and the like. | |
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| − | + | My First recommendation is, A Bench supply that has a Current adjustment as well as an adjustable voltage control, Is fused, and regulated..Not everybody will have one , or be able to afford one, Maybe borrow one..With one of these, it allows you to apply power , with the current and Voltage controls at zero..you then can adjust the voltage to 14.2, THEN slowly bring up the Current..IF YOU HAVE A SHORT, the AMP meter will shoot up rapidly, as you apply small amounts of current.In this manner you can turn the supply off LONG before ANY damage will occur..and correct the problem, AND if it exceeds the maximum draw for the supply, it will trip the fuse. | |
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| − | + | As I said, Not everybody will have one, My second recommendation is a Motorcycle battery (Not a Big Harley Battery, a small hold in your hand Honda type battery) Install a 30 amp fuse link on the positive , and (if your meter supports it) use your meter in line to monitor Current. At this point you will be doing no "High Current testing" so you should be good. If not a Motorcycle battery, Two parallel Connected LANTERN battery's should last long enough to do some primary testing. | |
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| − | + | Lastly, If you MUST, use a Battery charger, BUT Disconnect ANY electronics you have, CD player, Tach, ECU, ECM, Alternator, Regulator, Digital dash displays, Anything Solid state to avoid damage. | |
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Whatever System approach you take, Test for functionality, correct any errors you may find. | Whatever System approach you take, Test for functionality, correct any errors you may find. | ||
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Fuse links , unlike Fuses DO NOT just blow..Something MAJOR is wrong! AND it was wrong LONG enough to MELT wire..unlike a 5 amp radio Fuse that See's a 7 amp spike and opens a few times a year..It took a 50, 70 or 100 amp SHORT a few Seconds / minutes to melt the link..Not a small issue. FIND OUT WHY! | Fuse links , unlike Fuses DO NOT just blow..Something MAJOR is wrong! AND it was wrong LONG enough to MELT wire..unlike a 5 amp radio Fuse that See's a 7 amp spike and opens a few times a year..It took a 50, 70 or 100 amp SHORT a few Seconds / minutes to melt the link..Not a small issue. FIND OUT WHY! | ||
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In either Case , A MAXI and Fuse Link DO the same job..A 70 amp MAXI is the same as a 70 Amp Link. What is Important on Either, is NEVER install them INSIDE a passenger compartment..THEY do their job by heating and melting..and can cause fires to interior parts, melt plastic parts, and create toxic fumes in a closed compartment. Always Install them in the Engine Bay AWAY from Fuel, Hydraulic or other flammables. | In either Case , A MAXI and Fuse Link DO the same job..A 70 amp MAXI is the same as a 70 Amp Link. What is Important on Either, is NEVER install them INSIDE a passenger compartment..THEY do their job by heating and melting..and can cause fires to interior parts, melt plastic parts, and create toxic fumes in a closed compartment. Always Install them in the Engine Bay AWAY from Fuel, Hydraulic or other flammables. | ||
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While some wiring harness's recommend the main power come off the starter live connection, running the wire straight to a Single Insulated battery terminal post can be a better way to go. Such a case would be an off-road vehicle where water or mud could cause problems if the main power wire is connected to the starter. | While some wiring harness's recommend the main power come off the starter live connection, running the wire straight to a Single Insulated battery terminal post can be a better way to go. Such a case would be an off-road vehicle where water or mud could cause problems if the main power wire is connected to the starter. | ||
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You Should have a Trouble free Harness that will last Forever.. | You Should have a Trouble free Harness that will last Forever.. | ||
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