Camshaft install tips and tricks
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Most ZDDP additives recommend a specific quantity in the oil for break-in, and then half that amount for each subsequent oil change. Yes, it is possible to get too much ZDDP in the oil and generate spalling of the cam lobes. So do your research. And when in doubt, read the directions! | Most ZDDP additives recommend a specific quantity in the oil for break-in, and then half that amount for each subsequent oil change. Yes, it is possible to get too much ZDDP in the oil and generate spalling of the cam lobes. So do your research. And when in doubt, read the directions! | ||
| − | + | ;ZDDP resources | |
*[http://www.zddplus.com/ ZDDPlus.com] (includes various tech briefs) | *[http://www.zddplus.com/ ZDDPlus.com] (includes various tech briefs) | ||
*[http://www.sfrcorp.com/product/sfr-100-petroleum-oil-fortifier/ SFR 100 Oil Fortifier] | *[http://www.sfrcorp.com/product/sfr-100-petroleum-oil-fortifier/ SFR 100 Oil Fortifier] | ||
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'''5. Actual installation of the camshaft into the block.''' | '''5. Actual installation of the camshaft into the block.''' | ||
| − | On a complete engine assembly, it is often helpful to install the camshaft BEFORE the crankshaft; in many cases the cam would be the first major part to be installed by the assembler after "final cleaning" of the block | + | On a complete engine assembly, it is often helpful to install the camshaft BEFORE the crankshaft; in many cases the cam would be the first major part to be installed by the assembler after "final cleaning" of the block (the cam bearings and block plugs are likely to be installed by the machine shop). If this is the case, it is helpful to (if possible) set the block on the floor bellhousing-side DOWN, so the block is vertical. The camshaft can then be lowered into the block straight down, so there's minimal effort needed to assure that the cam lobes and cam journals DO NOT nick the bearings. If the cam MUST be installed horizontally, it is mandatory to use a "handle" of some sort on the front of the cam, and to take particular care that the cam doesn't bang into, or scrape across the bearings. Whether vertical or horizontal, if the crankshaft isn't in the way, it's easy to guide the cam through the bearings with one hand while supporting the front end of the cam with the other. |
'''6. Failure to verify "lifter spin" on flat-tappet lifters.''' | '''6. Failure to verify "lifter spin" on flat-tappet lifters.''' | ||
| − | With the camshaft and lifters installed, but before the timing chain is attached or the pushrods are installed, mark each lifter and lifter bore with a "Sharpie" or other marker. A simple stripe on the lifter bore aligned with a dot on the visible part of the top of the lifter is fine. Rotate the camshaft several revolutions, and assure that the lifters spin in the bores, as noted by the increasing misalignment of the dot on the lifter relative to the stripe on the lifter bore. The lifters may not all spin the same amount | + | With the camshaft and lifters installed, but before the timing chain is attached or the pushrods are installed, mark each lifter and lifter bore with a "Sharpie" or other marker. A simple stripe on the lifter bore aligned with a dot on the visible part of the top of the lifter is fine. Rotate the camshaft several revolutions, and assure that the lifters spin in the bores, as noted by the increasing misalignment of the dot on the lifter relative to the stripe on the lifter bore. The lifters may not all spin the same amount; some will spin more than others, but they '''all''' must show some rotational movement as the cam spins. The only exception to this that I'm aware of is Buick "Nailhead" V-8s, which (at least in OEM form) have no crown on the lifter foot, no taper on the cam lobe, and no offset between lifter bore and cam lobe. The Nailhead lifters are NOT intended to spin. |
===Valve springs=== | ===Valve springs=== | ||
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