Starter motors
(Added links, text from Troubleshooting starters page) |
(Add text from Noisy/grinding GM starter fixes page, clean up) |
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| − | == | + | [[File:Starter expl view.gif|right]] |
| + | ==Overview== | ||
| + | General Motors was the first manufacturer to use an "Electric Self Starter". It was developed in 1912 by Charles F. Kettering at the Dayton Engineering laboratories and its first application was on the Cadillac. Since then there have been uncounted industrial, marine, automotive and other uses. | ||
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| + | The electric starter was a major selling point, and it increased the the popularity of automobiling, making it accessible to men and women of any size and strength. It was was a major improvement over the "hand crank" which was notorious for its unpredictable kick-backs; many people were injured and even killed by these. | ||
| − | + | ==Block mounted SBC/BBC starters== | |
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Basically there are two different starter noses used. The difference in the noses is to accommodate the two different diameter flywheels/flexplates normally encountered in passenger car/light truck applications. | Basically there are two different starter noses used. The difference in the noses is to accommodate the two different diameter flywheels/flexplates normally encountered in passenger car/light truck applications. | ||
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Blocks from about 1962-up are drilled with three holes for either starter. The only two engines that may may not have the mounting holes to use either starter (other than the early blocks that used a bellhousing mounted starter) are the 200/229 ci 90 degree V6 Chevy and the SBC 400. The 229 V6 may have only the side by side bolt holes and not enough "meat" to drill the offset hole. The SBC 400 may have only the offset holes. It can be drilled for the other missing hole- but this needs to be carefully done for obvious reasons. | Blocks from about 1962-up are drilled with three holes for either starter. The only two engines that may may not have the mounting holes to use either starter (other than the early blocks that used a bellhousing mounted starter) are the 200/229 ci 90 degree V6 Chevy and the SBC 400. The 229 V6 may have only the side by side bolt holes and not enough "meat" to drill the offset hole. The SBC 400 may have only the offset holes. It can be drilled for the other missing hole- but this needs to be carefully done for obvious reasons. | ||
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| + | ==Starter noses== | ||
There are cast iron and aluminum block-mounted starter noses. The cast iron unit can be used with the large manual transmission bellhousing that was used after the block mounted starters began in 1963. Also in '63 the smaller 153 tooth flywheel/flexplate and the straight across mounting bolt pattern starter was introduced. | There are cast iron and aluminum block-mounted starter noses. The cast iron unit can be used with the large manual transmission bellhousing that was used after the block mounted starters began in 1963. Also in '63 the smaller 153 tooth flywheel/flexplate and the straight across mounting bolt pattern starter was introduced. | ||
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| − | To prevent broken starter noses or cracked block mounting holes, always use a starter brace and knurled attaching bolts as sold by GM. Torque the starter mounting bolts to 35 ft/lb. | + | To prevent broken starter noses or cracked block mounting holes, always use a starter brace and knurled attaching bolts as sold by GM (shown [[Starter motors#Starter brace|'''below'''.]]). Torque the starter mounting bolts to 35 ft/lb. |
| + | The starter nose is bolted to the starter motor housing. It provides a means for the starter to be mounted to the block or bellhousing depending on the application. On block mounted starters the nose locates the starter gear in the correct location for proper engagement with the flywheel ring gear; closer to the flywheel for the 153 tooth flywheel or further from the flywheel for the 168 tooth flywheel. The nose can be cast iron, often seen on bellhousing-mounted starter applications, or more commonly aluminum for starters that mount to the block. | ||
| + | In addition, there may be a cast iron starter nose that has all three mounting holes on the nose. If that's the case and there are at least two of the three mounting holes intact, it may be able to solve the problem. But if the outermost bolt hole is the one damaged, the two bolt holes left are very close together, causing the starter to be less secure than it would be if using the bolt holes further apart. In that case (and in ANY case) the need for a starter brace that mounts to the starter and block is mandatory. | ||
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| + | There are aftermarket high torque/gear reduction-type starters that have four holes. They are made to be used with either the 153 or 168 tooth flywheel, depending on which set of holes are used. This will work if there are the two side-by-side starter mounting holes intact, but often the outermost bolt hole is the one that's missing or damaged. | ||
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| + | ===Nose bolt hole sizes=== | ||
| + | There are also two different OEM starter nose bolt hole sizes available. The holes in the nose where the bolts go are designed to fit either 3/8" bolts or metric bolts. 3/8" equates to approximately 9.5mm. If 3/8 bolts are used on a starter designed to use 10mm bolts, there will be extra play between the bolt and the bolt holes of the starter nose. This can allow the starter to move relative to the ring gear, causing the starter to grind along with causing wear to the starter gear and the flexplate/flywheel ring gear. Over time the wear (or movement if the amount of movement is great enough) can result in the starter gear no longer being able to engage the ring gear and the result is an engine that cannot be started. | ||
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==What to do if the block is broken== | ==What to do if the block is broken== | ||
There is a fix for engine blocks that have unrepairable cracks or breaks where the starter mounts to the block. Shown below is an adaptor plate and spacer that can be used to mount the early type bellhousing mounted starter to a later block. It can save a block that would be otherwise either junk or requiring expensive and time consuming welding to fix. Ecklers also sells an adaptor plate similar to the one shown under p/n 19-68. | There is a fix for engine blocks that have unrepairable cracks or breaks where the starter mounts to the block. Shown below is an adaptor plate and spacer that can be used to mount the early type bellhousing mounted starter to a later block. It can save a block that would be otherwise either junk or requiring expensive and time consuming welding to fix. Ecklers also sells an adaptor plate similar to the one shown under p/n 19-68. | ||
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| − | + | ==Fixing noisy or grinding starters== | |
| + | We all have heard the screeching/grinding noise caused by a poorly adjusted starter. | ||
| − | There are aftermarket high torque | + | To fix this, some have gone to extreme lengths like machining engine blocks and starter noses. Custom bolts, shims, and brackets, etc. have been all used with varying success. |
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| + | ==Starter brace== | ||
| + | {| | ||
| + | |[[File:Sbc starter brace.jpg|thumb|330px|left|SBC starter brace]] | ||
| + | |[[File:Starter brace install.jpg|thumb|330px|left|Brace attaches to studded through bolt on starter and is bolted to the block]] | ||
| + | |} | ||
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| + | A brace like was originally used by the factory is needed to prevent the starter from flexing in use. The brace also saves the nose from being cracked or broken if the starter kicks back from over advanced ignition timing. | ||
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| + | The brace connects to the end of the starter opposite of the nose, using the studded through bolt to attach the slotted end of the brace to the starter. The other end of the brace attaches directly to a threaded boss on the engine block, just below where the block deck and head meet. | ||
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| + | ==Fasteners== | ||
| + | [[File:Arp gm starter bolts.jpg|thumb|left|450px|ARP starter bolts. Note knurling on the shank to locate the bolt in the starter nose correctly.]] <br style="clear:both"/> | ||
| + | [[Starter motors#Block mounted SBC/BBC starters|'''Return to top''']]. | ||
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| + | ===Threads=== | ||
| + | There are two different threads for the bolts used for Chevy starters, SAE and metric. | ||
| + | *SAE bolts are 3/8-16 thread | ||
| + | *Metric bolts are M10 x 1.5 | ||
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| + | ===Lengths=== | ||
| + | There are also several different lengths of bolts used: | ||
| + | *One short and one long SAE (underhead lengths of 1.880" and 4.450") | ||
| + | *One short and one long metric (underhead lengths of 1.775" and 4.470") | ||
| + | *Two long, both having an underhead length of 4.450". These are also used on the aftermarket mini/high torque gear reduction starter noses. | ||
| + | *Two long, both having an underhead length of 3.70" | ||
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| + | Starter bolts are knurled which is very important for holding the starter nose correctly in relation to the ring gear. Both bolts and starter cones can wear over time from excessive use and/or mismatched parts, like SAE bolts in a metric starter nose. | ||
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| + | ===Adjustment=== | ||
| + | When using shims you need to have 1/8" clearance, a 1/8" drill bit or allen wrench works well for this. | ||
| + | A noisy starter is because the gears are too close the use of shims reduced the noise by increasing the distance between the gears. | ||
==GM starter solenoid== | ==GM starter solenoid== | ||
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[[File:StarterSOLENOID TERMINALS 001.jpg|thumb|left|250px|Remove and rotate the arrowed terminals to renew a GM starter solenoid]] <br style="clear:both"/> | [[File:StarterSOLENOID TERMINALS 001.jpg|thumb|left|250px|Remove and rotate the arrowed terminals to renew a GM starter solenoid]] <br style="clear:both"/> | ||
| − | == | + | ==Flywheel/flexplate== |
| − | + | A good rule of thumb is to carefully inspect the condition of the starter gear when the ring gear or complete flywheel or flexplate is replaced. | |
| − | + | On some manual transmission flywheels the ring gear can be heated, removed, flipped over and reinstalled to give better teeth for the starter gear to engage, or the ring gear can be replaced on the flywheel if the flywheel is otherwise in good condition. | |
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| − | + | On most AT flexplates, the ring gear cannot be replaced using the above method. If the teeth on the flexplate are damaged or worn the flexplate is replaced. | |
| − | + | The knurled starter bolts are a must. The knurled part holds the starter in place it is actually a bit wider to keep the starter from shifting. | |
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| − | + | Keep in mind the difference of the metric and SAE bolt diameters. In some rare truck applications the starter nose uses all three bolt holes. | |
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| + | Painting ring gear can show how the gears are meshing. ''{Personal experience} I had a brand new starter with a weak Bendix that would rattle lightly I would not have spotted the problem if I had not painted the ring gear.'' | ||
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| + | On the 168 tooth flywheel and starter, supposedly the the starter nose is different between many auto transmission and a manual transmission applications. | ||
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| + | A 168 tooth flywheel will not fit into a c/n 621 bell housing. | ||
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| + | If your starter is working fine with out shims hold onto your core until you are absolutely sure the replacement is working. Once you turn in the core its gone! | ||
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| + | To prevent broken starter noses or cracked block mounting holes, always use a starter brace and knurled attaching bolts as sold by GM. Torque the bolts to 45 ft/lb. | ||
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| + | ==Electrical system== | ||
| + | ;See<nowiki>:</nowiki> | ||
| + | *[[Automotive wiring 101]] | ||
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| + | ===Battery=== | ||
| + | ;See<nowiki>:</nowiki> | ||
| + | *[[Auto battery]] | ||
===Battery terminals=== | ===Battery terminals=== | ||
[[File:Bad batt clamp term.jpg|thumb|220px|left|Clamp-on replacement battery terminals are to be avoided!]]Do not be tempted to save money by using one (or more) of the cheap, clamp-on style battery cable terminals. Even if they are tight and look fine, all too often they will cause high resistance and can make it seem like the battery is bad, etc. If the terminal fails on a cable there are better terminals that may be used to replace them, or the entire cable can be replaced with a cable having a larger diameter and quality terminals already installed. | [[File:Bad batt clamp term.jpg|thumb|220px|left|Clamp-on replacement battery terminals are to be avoided!]]Do not be tempted to save money by using one (or more) of the cheap, clamp-on style battery cable terminals. Even if they are tight and look fine, all too often they will cause high resistance and can make it seem like the battery is bad, etc. If the terminal fails on a cable there are better terminals that may be used to replace them, or the entire cable can be replaced with a cable having a larger diameter and quality terminals already installed. | ||
| − | <br style="clear:both"/> | + | <br style="clear:both"/> |
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| + | ===Grounds=== | ||
| + | Make sure there is a good ground strap or cable going from the: | ||
| + | *Battery to the block | ||
| + | *Battery to the frame | ||
| + | *Block to firewall/chassis sheet metal | ||
| + | With this arrangement you are almost guaranteed a good ground, even if one fails. Keep in mind that the engine block is attached to rubber mounts. Some people will bolt the "battery to block" right to the starter bolt. | ||
==Resources== | ==Resources== | ||
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