DynoSim combinations
(→The following will show horsepower and torque results using different combinations of parts) |
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**Timing info and at what tappet lift the info is valid, i.e. 0.006", 0.050", etc. | **Timing info and at what tappet lift the info is valid, i.e. 0.006", 0.050", etc. | ||
| − | + | ==The following will show horsepower and torque results using different combinations of parts== | |
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OK, first things first. I have to agree that the DynoSim results sometimes seem optimistic, but consider this. The software is configured with the premise that the hard parts will be tweaked by the builder, the build dimensions will be blueprinted to the loose side and the final tuning will be spot-on. There's an old saying in hot rodderdom, "Loose is fast". | OK, first things first. I have to agree that the DynoSim results sometimes seem optimistic, but consider this. The software is configured with the premise that the hard parts will be tweaked by the builder, the build dimensions will be blueprinted to the loose side and the final tuning will be spot-on. There's an old saying in hot rodderdom, "Loose is fast". | ||
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I have checked the results I get against real dyno pulls and this DynoSim has shown to be within 2% of real. Not bad in my opinion. I'm seriously considering upgrading to DynoSim5 and an add-on cam file. I have 800 cam files now, but the add-on would give me 6000 files. I was dragged kicking and screaming into the computer age, but I'll tell you, there's nothing any more fun than dinkin' on this thing. Well.....there was that time in New Orleans, but that's a whole 'nuther story... | I have checked the results I get against real dyno pulls and this DynoSim has shown to be within 2% of real. Not bad in my opinion. I'm seriously considering upgrading to DynoSim5 and an add-on cam file. I have 800 cam files now, but the add-on would give me 6000 files. I was dragged kicking and screaming into the computer age, but I'll tell you, there's nothing any more fun than dinkin' on this thing. Well.....there was that time in New Orleans, but that's a whole 'nuther story... | ||
| − | + | ===355 Gen I Chevy street motor, budget build=== | |
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*Block: '68-'86 Chevy 350 Gen I bored +0.030". Check main bearing bore for round and parallel, align-hone or align-bore, as *necessary to line up the bores and insure they are ROUND. Once the mains are valid, register the block on the main saddle and cut *the block decks to square the block up and set the squish where you want it. I don't want to hear any carpin' about the cost of *cuttin' on the block. If you can't afford to do this stuff, take up another hobby. | *Block: '68-'86 Chevy 350 Gen I bored +0.030". Check main bearing bore for round and parallel, align-hone or align-bore, as *necessary to line up the bores and insure they are ROUND. Once the mains are valid, register the block on the main saddle and cut *the block decks to square the block up and set the squish where you want it. I don't want to hear any carpin' about the cost of *cuttin' on the block. If you can't afford to do this stuff, take up another hobby. | ||
*Crank: Stock 350, 3.48" stroke, 2.450" main journal diameter. | *Crank: Stock 350, 3.48" stroke, 2.450" main journal diameter. | ||
| − | *Rods: Stock 350 5.7". Recommend ARP bolts, re-size big end. Here is a set of GM rods that have been worked over | + | *Rods: Stock 350 5.7". Recommend ARP bolts, re-size big end. Here is a set of GM rods that have been worked over, probably would cost less than having your shop re-do your rods: [http://www.competitionproducts.com/Custom-Rebuilt-GM-Rod-Chev-350-LJ/productinfo/804335/ Rebuilt rods] |
| − | + | **Scat makes a dandy set of [http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SCA-25700P/ 5.7" forged rods] that are affordable. | |
| − | *Scat makes a dandy set of 5. | + | *Pistons: [http://www.kb-silvolite.com/kb_car/performance.php?action=details&P_id=155 Keith Black hypereutectic], part #KB193, 12cc D-cup, 5/64,5/64,3/16 rings. 1.561" compression height. Gap top ring 0.026", second ring 0.018". |
| − | *http://www. | + | |
| − | + | *Heads: [http://www.competitionproducts.com/RHS-ProTorker-Vortec-Cast-Iron-Head-170cc_64cc-Bare-Each/productinfo/RHS12410/ RHS Pro Torquer Vortec], part number 12410, 2.02" intake, 1.60" exhaust. These heads will accept either conventional or Vortec type intake manifolds, they are drilled and tapped for both types. More on using an early style intake on a Vortec style head can be seen [http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/Intake_manifold#Using_an_early_style_intake_on_an_aftermarket_Vortec-type_head '''here''']. | |
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| − | *Heads: | + | |
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*Intake manifold: Dual-plane, high-rise such as the Edelbrock RPM #7101, Weiand Stealth #8016, Holley 300-36 or Professional *Products Typhoon. Check ebay and craigslist for used manifolds if your budget is tight. | *Intake manifold: Dual-plane, high-rise such as the Edelbrock RPM #7101, Weiand Stealth #8016, Holley 300-36 or Professional *Products Typhoon. Check ebay and craigslist for used manifolds if your budget is tight. | ||
*Carburetor: Vacuum secondaries 750 CFM. | *Carburetor: Vacuum secondaries 750 CFM. | ||
*Headers: 1 3/4" primaries, long-tube, equal-length. Install "X" pipe between collectors and mufflers. Run 2 1/2" pipe to the rear *through mufflers of your choice. | *Headers: 1 3/4" primaries, long-tube, equal-length. Install "X" pipe between collectors and mufflers. Run 2 1/2" pipe to the rear *through mufflers of your choice. | ||
| − | *Camshaft: | + | *Camshaft: Flat tappet hydraulic [http://www.compcams.com/Cam_Specs/CamDetails.aspx?csid=72&sb=0 Comp Cams 260H], installed straight up. |
*Rocker Arms: 1.6 ratio on both intake and exhaust. | *Rocker Arms: 1.6 ratio on both intake and exhaust. | ||
*Static Compression Ratio: 9.6:1 | *Static Compression Ratio: 9.6:1 | ||
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*Squish: 0.035" to 0.045". Zero piston deck height with 0.035" to 0.045" head gasket or 0.010" to 0.020" piston deck height with *Victor Reinz #5746 head gasket that compresses to 0.025". | *Squish: 0.035" to 0.045". Zero piston deck height with 0.035" to 0.045" head gasket or 0.010" to 0.020" piston deck height with *Victor Reinz #5746 head gasket that compresses to 0.025". | ||
| + | ====Results==== | ||
:'''RPM HP TQ''' | :'''RPM HP TQ''' | ||
*1000 59 310 | *1000 59 310 | ||
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Stock converter and stock rear gear will work, but would be more fun with a converter that stalls at 2000 to 2200 rpm's and a 3.73 gear. | Stock converter and stock rear gear will work, but would be more fun with a converter that stalls at 2000 to 2200 rpm's and a 3.73 gear. | ||
| − | + | ===383 Gen I street motor. 485 hp/496 ft-lbs torque=== | |
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OK, staying with the RHS heads, but using the Pro Action 180's and reducing the advertised flow by 5% to get closer to real, flow used for this build on a 383 will be as follows: | OK, staying with the RHS heads, but using the Pro Action 180's and reducing the advertised flow by 5% to get closer to real, flow used for this build on a 383 will be as follows: | ||
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*Pistons: Keith Black hypereutectic #KB134, 7cc flat-top, 5/64/5/64/3/16 rings, 1.433 compression height. | *Pistons: Keith Black hypereutectic #KB134, 7cc flat-top, 5/64/5/64/3/16 rings, 1.433 compression height. | ||
*Intake manifold: Dual-plane, high-rise such as the Edelbrock RPM, Weiand Stealth or Professional Products Typhoon. | *Intake manifold: Dual-plane, high-rise such as the Edelbrock RPM, Weiand Stealth or Professional Products Typhoon. | ||
| − | *Carburetor: | + | *Carburetor: 850 cfm vacuum secondary. |
| − | *Headers: 1 3/4" primaries, long-tube, equal-length. Install "X" pipe between collectors and mufflers. Run 2 1/2" to 2 3/4" pipe to the rear through mufflers of your choice. | + | *Headers: 1-3/4" primaries, long-tube, equal-length. Install "X" pipe between collectors and mufflers. Run 2-1/2" to 2-3/4" pipe to the rear through mufflers of your choice. |
| − | *Camshaft | + | *Camshaft: [http://www.compcams.com/Cam_Specs/CamDetails.aspx?csid=79&sb=0 Comp cams 12-212-2 hydraulic flat tappet], installed 2 degrees retarded. |
*Rocker arms: 1.6, lift at valve 0.512". | *Rocker arms: 1.6, lift at valve 0.512". | ||
| − | *Static compression ratio: 10 | + | *Static compression ratio: 10:1. |
*Dynamic compression ratio: 8.2:1. | *Dynamic compression ratio: 8.2:1. | ||
| + | ====Results==== | ||
:'''RPM HP TQ''' | :'''RPM HP TQ''' | ||
*2000 148 389 | *2000 148 389 | ||
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*6000 481 421 | *6000 481 421 | ||
| + | ===383, 505 hp/500 ft-lbs torque=== | ||
| + | Same motor as above with [http://www.compcams.com/Cam_Specs/CamDetails.aspx?csid=238&sb=0 Comp Cams solid lifter flat tappet cam], 1.5 rockers. | ||
| − | + | ====Results==== | |
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:'''RPM HP TQ''' | :'''RPM HP TQ''' | ||
*2000 145 382 | *2000 145 382 | ||
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*6500 481 389 | *6500 481 389 | ||
| + | ===355, L31 heads=== | ||
| + | Flat tappet hydraulic cam, stock rail rockers, some head work for better springs. | ||
| − | + | In this build, a tight budget is important. In that vein, use stock self aligning (SA) rockers. Lift is under a half inch, so the SA rockers would be OK. Check to see if using a -0.050" lock will be needed to insure the valve tip sticks up far enough above the retainer so that the retainer top surface doesn't get loaded by the side rails of the rail rockers. More on checking clearances, etc. under '''Resources''', below. | |
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*Bore the block 0.030", use these or other 12cc pistons w/5.7 rods: [http://www.kb-silvolite.com/test/kb_car/performance.php?action=details&P_id=155]. | *Bore the block 0.030", use these or other 12cc pistons w/5.7 rods: [http://www.kb-silvolite.com/test/kb_car/performance.php?action=details&P_id=155]. | ||
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*http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HRS-CL112011-11/ | *http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HRS-CL112011-11/ | ||
| − | *L31 heads from a boneyard, casting # 12558062 or 10239906. | + | *L31 heads from a boneyard, casting # 12558062 or 10239906. Magnaflux for cracks. Fit new STOCK springs and seals. Make certain seals are *fully seated on the guide boss by tapping them with a socket and small hammer. The stock springs will work well with the mild cam and will *not pull the rocker studs out of the heads. Doesn't matter whether the heads have hard inserts in the exhaust or induction hardened seats, *either way will work. Same casting, both styles flow the same. Give 'em a good valve job and otherwise leave 'em alone. Use the rail rockers *that came on the heads stock. |
*Align-hone the main bearing bores in the block and cut the block decks for 9.015" block deck height, referenced off the main bearing bore so *that you know the block deck height is equal on all four corners. This will insure that the heads sit level and flat on the deck and that *the intake manifold will sit square to the heads with no gaps to cause an internal or external vacuum leak. Use GM head gasket #10105117. *Static compression ratio will be 9.1:1 and squish will be 0.042". Use Edelbrock #7116 Performer RPM intake manifold. 600 carb is all you'll *need. | *Align-hone the main bearing bores in the block and cut the block decks for 9.015" block deck height, referenced off the main bearing bore so *that you know the block deck height is equal on all four corners. This will insure that the heads sit level and flat on the deck and that *the intake manifold will sit square to the heads with no gaps to cause an internal or external vacuum leak. Use GM head gasket #10105117. *Static compression ratio will be 9.1:1 and squish will be 0.042". Use Edelbrock #7116 Performer RPM intake manifold. 600 carb is all you'll *need. | ||
| − | *Makes 365 hp @ 5000 rpm | + | *Makes 365 hp @ 5000 rpm with a double torque peak of 420 ft/lbs @3500 and 4000. Should make this power on crummy cat-pea pump gas without *detonation and make a real nice daily driver motor. |
*Cam begins making power at 1200, so it's your call whether or not you need a looser converter. If I did anything at all with this combo, it *would be a mild 2000 stall unit just so I didn't have to contend with the car creeping at stoplights and also to get up into the 1500 rpm *low range of the intake manifold when the light turns green. | *Cam begins making power at 1200, so it's your call whether or not you need a looser converter. If I did anything at all with this combo, it *would be a mild 2000 stall unit just so I didn't have to contend with the car creeping at stoplights and also to get up into the 1500 rpm *low range of the intake manifold when the light turns green. | ||
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| − | + | ==Resources== | |
| + | *[[Valve spring installed height]] | ||
| + | *[[Valve train geometry]] | ||
| + | *[[Valve train points to check]] | ||
[[Category:Engine]] | [[Category:Engine]] | ||
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