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| − | == Requirements ==
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| − | === the ultimate hot rod powerplant. However, over time the Chrysler Hemi's and the 427 Ford Big Block have made a big comeback and are all considered perfect candidates for supercharged wild engines.
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| − | == Locating an engine to rebuild ==
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| − | This section should cover the basics of where to find a potential candidate for an engine rebuilding project. How to search junkyards, it as well.
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| − | *If you plan on removing the transmission, don't forget any linkages, backup lamp switches, neutral safety switches (some are transmission-mounted), modulator valve vacuum lines, TCC control wiring, and the speedometer cable (or speed transducer and wires). Cover any holes with tape.
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| − | *Fit a plastic bag over the tailshaft, and duct tape it after you remove the driveshaft. This will keep residual oil in, and dirt out.
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| − | *Be sure that whatever you are using to lift the engine is strong enough to lift more than the weight of the engine safely, and is on a completely level surface. If outriggers are provided, use them. Be absolutely certain that the lift can not roll on its own, or become unbalanced side-to-side.
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| − | *Use some type of lift ring on the engine, such as a plate that bolts to where the carburetor was. For easier engine removal, the [http://www.myks-tools.com/ Engine Hoist Pivot Plate] has been recommended.
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| − | *Be sure to use padded fender protectors; a strike from ring gear teeth can do serious body and fender damage.
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| − | *Jack engine up slightly, and remove the bolts to the motor mounts and the transmission bell-housing (unless you are removing the transmission also).
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| − | === Transportation ===
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| − | How to ship an engine through a third-party shipping service. And, how to safely load, secure, transport, and unload an engine.
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| − | An engine, because of the oil and gasoline residue it holds, is considered hazardous material in the United States and comes under special requirements for shipping documentation. If you do not already know how to do this, it isn't worth your while for one engine. Get somebody who does this regularly (maybe a friendly auto dealer or salvage yard) to do it for you.
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| − | == Disassembly==
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| − | Step-by-step. Everything you need to do to your engine prior to assessing it for machine work.
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| − | Before you start taking things off of your engine there are a few items you want to have on hand so you can start and finish with few stops and starts.
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| − | You will need an engine stand. Putting the engine on a stand is the safest and fastest way to dissemble an engine.
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| − | You will need baggies to put all of your nuts and bolts into so you do not loose any of them. Make sure to label the baggies. Some like to use a metal coffee can with some 1/8th inch holes poked in the bottom and sides, to clean parts with prior to putting them in the baggies. This will allow you to rinse the dirt and grime off all the fasteners very fast and you do not have to worry about any of them falling out into the solvent bath. A can of WD-40 or something like it to be used on the rusted fasteners. It is a good idea to have a bunch of clean rags. Some of these engines can be DIRTY and if you keep your tools clean as you go, you will not waste time washing your hands. I would also like to take a few pictures of the engine from all angles. Then when you are putting things back together you have a reference photo to figure out just where that bracket goes.
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| − | The first items that come off of an engine I am going to rebuild are the exhaust manifolds. Then take off all the brackets holding the A/C compressor, alternater,power steering pump, and smog pump. Then take the distributor out. I wrap a clean rag around the bottom end of the distributor and then put it into a zip-lock plastic bag. I can then clean this later. Now for the carburetor or fuel injection or throttle body. For the injectors I put them into plastic bags. Again when it comes time to put new "O"-rings on the injectors I can work on each, one at a time, without getting them dinged up in the fastener can. If the engine has a carburetor do not turn it upside down unless you plan on installing a rebuild kit on it also. Any "crud" that has settled to the bottom of the carburetor fuel bowl will become lodged in places you do not want dirt or rust, so keep it right-side up and again wrap a clean rag around it and then pop it into a plastic bag. I do not like to keep the carburator in the garage all wrapped up like this so I put it in the storage shed with the gas cans and things. If you are working on an engine with a throttle body just put the unit in a plastic bag for now. At a later time you can put in new "O" rings. You just don't need all these parts in your way until you start to reassemble the engine.
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| − | For an engine with a carburetor now is the time for the fuel pump to be taken off. On Small Block Chevys (SBC), there is a spacer plate that needs to be removed also so you can take the fuel pump push rod out of the block. I put this rod and the spacer plate in with the fasteners.
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| − | == Machining ==
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| − | === Deciding what machine work to do ===
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| − | What will the engine be used for? This will be the determing factor on how much you're going to spend. In either case, whether it's a stock replacement swap or a race engine, there are a couple of things that should be done.
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| − | #Have your block acid dipped so when you put it back together you will have a nice clean block to work with.
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| − | #Always have it sonic tested, this way you know if the engine block is even worth using.
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| − | #Have your cylinder walls checked out for roundness, this will prolong the life of your piston rings and life of your engine.
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| − | #Have your machinists put a fresh hone on your cylinder walls, unless you plan on doing this step yourself.
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| − | #Don't Forget to have new cam bearings and freeze plugs installed, for most guys its alot easier having the shop install these
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| − | ==== What to expect to pay for machining work ====
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| − | List of specific procedures and average prices.
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| − | === How to select a machine shop ===
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| − | Cleanliness, experience, referral from trusted sources, knowledge, etc. Remember, anyone can purchase the machinery and equipment. Good equipment is necessary, but so is experience. No two shops do things the same way. Talk to the shop owner/manager and find one that you are comfortable with. Big names don't always assure top quality.
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| − | == Assembly ==
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| − | Step-by-step engine assembly process.
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| − | Always chase your threads with a tap on all holes where torque values are critical,
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| − | like head bolts to block.
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| − | Clean and oil them for a good torque reading.
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| − | Clean all bolt threads thoroughly, A wire brush on a grinder works well for this.
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| − | Be sure to check and verify before using existing head bolts, some engines require new ones.
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| − | Be sure when using or replacing any and all bolts with stainless or aluminum to use anti-seize on the threads.
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| − | == Testing and break-in ==
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| − | Here we can list the various procedures for breaking in an engine.
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| − | {{youcanedit}}
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