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| − | ==Overview==
| + | I recently visited your website and noticed that its design and speed could use some improvement. |
| − | Learning to solder is a skill well worth the effort to master. It doesn't require a lot of equipment, supplies or technique, but there are a few things to be aware of. The following text will give some tips and info on soldering electrical wire and components.
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| − | ===Soldering guns, irons, and torches===
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| − | [[File:Weller butane soldering iron.jpg|thumb|right|200px|Butane soldering iron]]A temperature controlled soldering station is good to have for bench work, but they can be bulky for use under a dashboard, for example. A simple, high output soldering iron can be used, or a good quality soldering gun is also a good choice for working in cramped quarters. The soldering gun is designed to rapidly heat up when activated, then to cool off so it won't be a hazard to the used while in a cramped area. Many good guns have a light that's activated w/the trigger that also heats the tip. These guns have a variety of tips shapes and sizes available, as do most good soldering irons. Irons having a 1/4" tip diameter is a good choice. A chisel-shaped tip is a good choice for most electrical work, about 1/8" to 3/16" wide. Weller is a well-known brand for soldering appliances. Hexacon is another quality tool line for soldering equipment.
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| − | | + | Best regards, |
| − | For work where there is no electricity to use an electric soldering gun or iron, you can use a butane torch. There are models available that heat ta tip with the flame rather than applying an open flame to the solder joint.
| + | Sofia |
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| − | ===Solder===
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| − | A supply of 63/37 (tin/lead) or 60/40 solder. 63/37 is a eutectic mixture having a low melting point (183° C or 361.4° F). Solder diameter varies, 24 gauge (0.0201") is sometimes used for harness making, and it works well for circuit board assembly also, a good mid-sized gauge. Generally staying at or below about 1/16" diameter is fine for automotive electrical work. Rosin core solder is OK but doesn't mean added flux won't be needed.
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| − | In recent years, lead solder has been replaced by "lead free" solder. This is made from a combination of different elements such as Sn, Ag, and Cu (tin, silver, and copper). Generally the lead free solders have a higher melting point than tin/lead solder. Lead free solder uses a flux made for it, as well.
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| − | ===Flux===
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| − | Rosin flux is used exclusively for electrical work when using tin/lead soft solder. Rosin flux isn't water soluble, so it has to be removed w/hydrocarbons like acetone, lacquer thinner, xylol, etc. Avoid breathing or contacting these compounds. With the advent of lead free solders, water soluble fluxes have been introduced.
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| − | Acid core solder or flux should never be used when doing any type of electrical soldering, the acid will cause corrosion and failure of the connection over time.
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| − | ===Other tools and supplies===
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| − | *Hemostats
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| − | *Small brass flux brush (about the size of a toothbrush)
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| − | *Dental pick
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| − | *a small flashlight or drop cord for working under a dashboard for instance
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| − | *De-soldering tools (some are spring loaded syringe-like devices, some are a simple suction bulb) that will suck the solder from a joint when the joint is sufficiently heated. Desoldering braid is another way to remove solder. It works by wicking the solder into the braid, sometimes made from tinned copper.
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| − | * A quality set of automatic strippers with a depth gauge.
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| − | * A quality tie wrap gun, various tie wraps.
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| − | * A selection of various terminals and connectors in the 3 popular sizes.
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| − | <br><br>
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| − | <gallery perrow=3 widths=200px caption="Tools/Supplies">
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| − | File:SOLDERING EQUIPMENT 001.jpg|Selection of soldering equipment
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| − | File:Rosin flux 002.jpg|Rosin flux suitable for electrical work
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| − | File:TERMINAL AND WIRE STRIPPER TOOLS 002.jpg|Wire cutters, crimpers, strippers
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| − | File:Desoldering pump.jpg|Desoldering pump
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| − | File:Butane soldering torch.jpg|Butane soldering torch
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| − | File:Velleman solder tip cleaner.jpg| Soldering tip cleaner
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| − | </gallery>
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| − | ==Some helpful tips==
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| − | Typically you want to use as little solder as possible, because with large quantities of solder
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| − | it ends up being a heat sink.
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| − | For automotive electrical work, you want a HOT iron. A good iron will have a capacity of at least 35 watts. If you can afford a temperature controlled iron buy it, you will be glad you did and you will never regret it.
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| − | It's always good practice to tin the wire or connector before soldering. This is nothing more than applying a small amount of flux to the wire to be soldered, then heating it and applying a small amount of solder. This will make the joint stronger and easier to make. Be aware that solder will wick up a wire and make it stiff. Avoid this, the tip of the wire is all that needs to be tinned.
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| − | Keep the soldering iron tip clean and tinned. Put it away tinned so it's ready for use the next time it's needed. A damp sponge can be used to occasionally wipe the tip during work, this removes any build up of solder or burned on flux. Another tip is to use a sal ammoniac block if the tip is especially bad. Rub each face of the well heated soldering iron(not red hot) on the sal ammoniac tinning block along with a little solder applied to the tip of the iron.
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