How to rebuild an engine
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For those of you who insist on using flat tappet cams (more than likely due to the cost of roller units, particularly if building a pre-roller cam type of block), I will herein give my take on the best way to do it. | For those of you who insist on using flat tappet cams (more than likely due to the cost of roller units, particularly if building a pre-roller cam type of block), I will herein give my take on the best way to do it. | ||
| − | 1. Start with a matched and coordinated set of parts from ONE SOURCE, buying the springs recommended by the cam grinder for your particular application and rpm limit. There is no point in using Gorilla springs in a street motor. You're just asking for it. | + | 1. Start with a matched and coordinated set of parts from ONE SOURCE, buying the springs and lifters recommended by the cam grinder for your particular application and rpm limit. There is no point in using Gorilla springs in a street motor. You're just asking for it. Always consult with the tech guy at your favorite cam grinder for a cam/lifter/spring recommendation for your particular application. Never rely solely on the recommendation of gearheads on auto forums. It's ok to ask and get a general recommendation from such individuals, but before you lay down your hard-earned money, consult with the manufacturer's tech guy. Of course, he will want to know all the particulars of your combination including exact static compression ratio, so have all this written down so you can answer his questions intelligently. |
2. Discuss using armored lifters with the tech person at your favorite grinder. These have a stellite face on the lifter crown that will resist scuffing. By the way, I often read posts by those who are building motors that they made a great deal on a cam and lifter set. There is no such thing as a "great deal" on cam and lifters. Little do they know that this is junk made offshore and that they will be buying a new set of cam and lifters shortly, as well as spending a few days tearing the motor completely apart to clean out the shrapnel. Yep, it was a great deal though. You might want to buy a set of these with the "great deal" cam and lifters.... | 2. Discuss using armored lifters with the tech person at your favorite grinder. These have a stellite face on the lifter crown that will resist scuffing. By the way, I often read posts by those who are building motors that they made a great deal on a cam and lifter set. There is no such thing as a "great deal" on cam and lifters. Little do they know that this is junk made offshore and that they will be buying a new set of cam and lifters shortly, as well as spending a few days tearing the motor completely apart to clean out the shrapnel. Yep, it was a great deal though. You might want to buy a set of these with the "great deal" cam and lifters.... | ||
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Put a socket on the harmonic damper retaining bolt and rotate the motor through at least 2 full revolutions while priming. | Put a socket on the harmonic damper retaining bolt and rotate the motor through at least 2 full revolutions while priming. | ||
| − | 10. At the end of your 20 minute break-in period, drop the oil and filter and change them out. Use another bottle of GM EOS in the oil. Drive the vehicle for 30 miles, altering the speed and letting the motor rev down from 60 mph to 20 mph with your foot off the gas pedal. Drop the oil and filter and repeat the EOS again. | + | 10. At the end of your 20 minute break-in period, drop the oil and filter and change them out. Use another bottle of GM EOS in the oil. Drive the vehicle for 30 miles, altering the speed and letting the motor rev down from 60 mph to 20 mph with your foot off the gas pedal. Drop the oil and filter and repeat the EOS again. CHANGE THE VALVE SPRINGS TO THE ONES THAT CAME WITH THE CAM KIT. Drive for 500 miles and drop the oil and filter again. |
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techinspector1 | techinspector1 | ||
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