Rust
(→Accessing rust between interior panels) |
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===Dealing with seams=== | ===Dealing with seams=== | ||
+ | Spot blaster is useful. | ||
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+ | To do it right, you will generally need to pull the seam apart, remove the rust, and then hit it with a rust conversion product. However, sometimes you can open up the layers slightly with a hammer and putty knife used between the spotwelds. Bend the flange open, media blast into the seam, clean, prime with epoxy primer, brush in urethane seam sealer, and close the seam back up. If the seam is not accessible, flood it with a penetrating cavity wax, like 3M's Rustfighter. | ||
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+ | Products: | ||
+ | #[http://sem.ws/product.php?product_id=97 SEM High Build Self Leveling Seam Sealer] | ||
+ | #Weld-Through Primer: a zinc-rich coating that conducts current from a welder. It can provide protection on lap welds and inner weld seams. As a general rule, weld-through primer is applied to the mating areas when welding body panels. List a few commercially available weld-through primers here. 3M, U-Pol, etc. It doesn't burn off when welding. | ||
===What exactly is e-coating?=== | ===What exactly is e-coating?=== | ||
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===Patch panels=== | ===Patch panels=== | ||
Butt weld or lap weld? | Butt weld or lap weld? | ||
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Use 18-20 gauge sheet metal. | Use 18-20 gauge sheet metal. | ||
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===Flooded vehicles=== | ===Flooded vehicles=== | ||
Flooded vehicles can be very difficult to handle, as there can be rust in any and all places. They are best avoided, unless it's the car that you really want. | Flooded vehicles can be very difficult to handle, as there can be rust in any and all places. They are best avoided, unless it's the car that you really want. | ||
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==="Oiling" your car=== | ==="Oiling" your car=== |