Rust
(→Removing rust from body panels) |
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==Mechanical removal of rust== | ==Mechanical removal of rust== | ||
mechanical removal (flapper discs, wire wheels, etc.) | mechanical removal (flapper discs, wire wheels, etc.) | ||
| + | Shop vac, putty knife, metal brush, wire wheel on grinder for loose stuff, or wire wheel that fits on a drill (not as good as grinder). | ||
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| + | *Start with as low as 36 grit, and finish with as high as 220. | ||
| + | *Scotch-brite pads and Comet/Ajax. | ||
| + | *3M clean-n-strip disc? | ||
| + | *steel toothbrush | ||
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===Media blasting rust=== | ===Media blasting rust=== | ||
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chemical removal -- spray/paint on, plus soaking | chemical removal -- spray/paint on, plus soaking | ||
list applicable chems here | list applicable chems here | ||
| + | Phosphoric acid, muriatic acid, toilet bowl cleaner, naval jelly -- let it sit: 20 minutes, hours, overnight. | ||
| + | Coca-cola for rust removal? | ||
| + | After acid, flush with water and baking soda. | ||
| + | Lots of "rust neutralizers/metal etchers/floor etchers/metal conditioners" contain phosphoric acid. Turns the rust into a hard black substance. | ||
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===Getting your entire body acid dipped=== | ===Getting your entire body acid dipped=== | ||
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Explain the perspectives on the use of rust encapsulators. | Explain the perspectives on the use of rust encapsulators. | ||
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| + | Hard to remove from skin. To remove from skin: Soak in vegetable oil for 30 minutes, or use a solvent (is there a specific POR-15 solvent?). | ||
POR-15, Zero-Rust, Eastwood Rust Encapsulator | POR-15, Zero-Rust, Eastwood Rust Encapsulator | ||
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Some professionals have expressed the concern that it's best to use rust encapsulator products "alone", and not within a professional coating product line. Good thread on this is here: http://hotrodders.com/forum/zero-rust-primer-98104.html . | Some professionals have expressed the concern that it's best to use rust encapsulator products "alone", and not within a professional coating product line. Good thread on this is here: http://hotrodders.com/forum/zero-rust-primer-98104.html . | ||
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| + | POR-15 is expensive. Are there other products that are just as good, but not so pricey? One problem with using "rust coating products" is that, for hobbyists, it's often best to stick with a single line of paint/finish products, from bare metal to clearcoat. Using most rust products means that you're outside of the product line for the rest of the finish. So, it may be physically incompatible (resulting in a poor paint job), or it may void the product warranty. | ||
Need to go through these three companies rust product lines, and analyze all the available products. | Need to go through these three companies rust product lines, and analyze all the available products. | ||
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| + | *"silver" POR-15? Has a filler in it for minor imperfections? | ||
When selecting a rust encapsulator, need to consider: | When selecting a rust encapsulator, need to consider: | ||
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===Quick fix for exposed areas (dents, etc.)=== | ===Quick fix for exposed areas (dents, etc.)=== | ||
If a dent causes an area of bare metal to be exposed. To "hold" it so it won't rust until a paint job is ready to be done: gently bump out the dent, sand, rattle can primer, rattle can sealer. | If a dent causes an area of bare metal to be exposed. To "hold" it so it won't rust until a paint job is ready to be done: gently bump out the dent, sand, rattle can primer, rattle can sealer. | ||
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| + | ===Rusted window channels=== | ||
| + | Bad news. Difficult to fabricate. | ||
===The fiberglass resin patch trick=== | ===The fiberglass resin patch trick=== | ||
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Use 18-20 gauge sheet metal. | Use 18-20 gauge sheet metal. | ||
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| + | ===Storing body panels=== | ||
| + | Use epoxy primer (AKA epoxy primer/sealer), it won't allow rust. Not the same as regular primer. | ||
| + | Wet-sand down to 400 grit, wash/dry, grind down rust to bare metal, apply body filler where needed, blow off, clean with prep-sol or similar cleaner, tape it up, and prime with epoxy primer. | ||
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===Plasma spray welding=== | ===Plasma spray welding=== | ||
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===Accessing rust between interior panels=== | ===Accessing rust between interior panels=== | ||
Pressure washer with pencil tip can knock everything loose out. | Pressure washer with pencil tip can knock everything loose out. | ||
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| + | "For the doors, and removeable panels that I can't get inside completely, I will simply pour the epoxy inside and slosh it around, and let it soak into the seams." -- by adtkart here: http://hotrodders.com/forum/need-more-info-rust-please-help-113166.html . | ||
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Drill small holes, get a spray wand with a 360-degree head. Then, when done, weld the holes shut. | Drill small holes, get a spray wand with a 360-degree head. Then, when done, weld the holes shut. | ||
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#When finished with an area, wipe off excess naval jelly with paper towel, squirt on warm soapy water, and dry thoroughly. Then wipe down with lacquer thinner. Can then sand with 180 grit. After that, you can just use wax and grease remover, and then paint with epoxy primer. | #When finished with an area, wipe off excess naval jelly with paper towel, squirt on warm soapy water, and dry thoroughly. Then wipe down with lacquer thinner. Can then sand with 180 grit. After that, you can just use wax and grease remover, and then paint with epoxy primer. | ||
| + | ===After removing rust=== | ||
| + | Need to wash and prep surface, with a solvent like lacquer thinner or DuPont Prep-Sol. | ||
===Fixing rust holes=== | ===Fixing rust holes=== | ||
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===Removing rust=== | ===Removing rust=== | ||
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*Some people mentioned that professional body shops don't use POR-15 or similar rust "encapsulators" because: | *Some people mentioned that professional body shops don't use POR-15 or similar rust "encapsulators" because: | ||
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Interesting article here: http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/rust/evaporust/index.html . Forum guy reviews evapo-rust. Disadvantages of acid: can't breathe it, must wash all parts thoroughly after using it, or the acid starts working again when it gets wet. | Interesting article here: http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/rust/evaporust/index.html . Forum guy reviews evapo-rust. Disadvantages of acid: can't breathe it, must wash all parts thoroughly after using it, or the acid starts working again when it gets wet. | ||
| − | === | + | ===Epoxy primer=== |
| − | + | No, you can't get epoxy primer in a rattle can. It's a two-part mix, with a hardener that has to be added before you spray it. Rattle can primer is typically porous, which means it wil attract water, and consequently rust, whereas 2-part epoxy primer is not. | |
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| − | No, you can't get epoxy primer in a rattle can. It's a two-part mix, with a hardener that has to be added before you spray it. | + | |
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| − | Rattle can primer is porous | + | |
===Various commercial rust encapsulators and rust removers (need to be sorted)=== | ===Various commercial rust encapsulators and rust removers (need to be sorted)=== | ||
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*[http://www.rustoleum.com/brand.asp?frm_brand_id=41&SBL=5 Rustoleum Tremclad] | *[http://www.rustoleum.com/brand.asp?frm_brand_id=41&SBL=5 Rustoleum Tremclad] | ||
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Zinc dip, also Eastwood has some solutions? | Zinc dip, also Eastwood has some solutions? | ||
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===All-Metal filler?=== | ===All-Metal filler?=== | ||
Aluminum filler compound. Good for filling holes? | Aluminum filler compound. Good for filling holes? | ||
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===Preventing engine rust=== | ===Preventing engine rust=== | ||
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===Frame rust=== | ===Frame rust=== | ||
Sandblasting or dipping is best. Then, wire wheel is next-best. Can be professionally sandblasted and powder-coated for ~$250 at a good price. | Sandblasting or dipping is best. Then, wire wheel is next-best. Can be professionally sandblasted and powder-coated for ~$250 at a good price. | ||
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| + | Patching is usually not worthwhile, unless it's a special or valuable frame. Too easy to replace, and too much potential structural damage. Has to be done perfectly. Can be replaced with steel of the same gauge as the original frame, and welded in to place. | ||
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| + | Where is the rust on the frame? In a critical stress area? How bad is it? | ||
For minor surface rusting, with mostly metal showing through, it's OK to just powder-coat it. | For minor surface rusting, with mostly metal showing through, it's OK to just powder-coat it. | ||
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#etching primer | #etching primer | ||
#epoxy primer | #epoxy primer | ||
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===Cosmoline=== | ===Cosmoline=== | ||
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