Make a fiberglass fan shroud
(→Laminating the part) |
(→Laminating the part) |
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This article assumes that you have a basic knowledge of laminating with fiberglass. Follow all instructions provided with your materials in regard to proper catalyzation of the resin and storage and handling of your tools and materials. | This article assumes that you have a basic knowledge of laminating with fiberglass. Follow all instructions provided with your materials in regard to proper catalyzation of the resin and storage and handling of your tools and materials. | ||
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Cut strips of 1 1/2 oz fiberglass mat on a peice of cardboard, ready to be wetted out. 3 layers of 1 1/2 oz mat will make a part that is about 0.120" thick, as each layer contributes about .040" to the laminate. There will be an extra layer laminated around all of the edges to make the final part about 0.160" thick. | Cut strips of 1 1/2 oz fiberglass mat on a peice of cardboard, ready to be wetted out. 3 layers of 1 1/2 oz mat will make a part that is about 0.120" thick, as each layer contributes about .040" to the laminate. There will be an extra layer laminated around all of the edges to make the final part about 0.160" thick. | ||
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When wetting out mat with resin, many people work the resin into the mat while it is on the wet out board. This is a mistake and will only make a resin rich, inconsistant part. You only brush enough resin on to cover the mat with resin, give it a little bit of time, it will soak in. | When wetting out mat with resin, many people work the resin into the mat while it is on the wet out board. This is a mistake and will only make a resin rich, inconsistant part. You only brush enough resin on to cover the mat with resin, give it a little bit of time, it will soak in. | ||
Notice in the picture how there are some areas of mat that are darker, and have become transparent. There is no more resin on those strips than is on the others, they were wetted out earlier and have soaked up the resin. | Notice in the picture how there are some areas of mat that are darker, and have become transparent. There is no more resin on those strips than is on the others, they were wetted out earlier and have soaked up the resin. | ||
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You do need to be somewhat swift with this part of the laminating process, as time goes by the resin will dissolve the binder that holds the mat together and make picking it up to apply it to the part a very frustrating activity. If the binder has dissolved, the mat will just fall apart when you try to pick it up.. | You do need to be somewhat swift with this part of the laminating process, as time goes by the resin will dissolve the binder that holds the mat together and make picking it up to apply it to the part a very frustrating activity. If the binder has dissolved, the mat will just fall apart when you try to pick it up.. | ||
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| − | Brush some resin on the surface of your buck. Brush a bit more resin in the | + | Brush some resin on the surface of your buck. Brush a bit more resin in the inside and outside corners, as these areas tend to be a little dry after stretching the mat over them. |
| − | [[Image:24wetting surface.JPG|center| | + | {| |
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| − | + | |[[Image:24wetting surface.JPG|center|thumb|Brush the resin onto the surface of the buck, paying special attention to the corners.]] | |
| − | [[Image:25wetting out buck.JPG|center| | + | |[[Image:25wetting out buck.JPG|center|thumb]] |
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Pick up the material from the wet out board and apply it to the part. Don't try to push it ito any inside corners or stretch it over any outside corners just yet. Just get the material stuck to the major flat areas. | Pick up the material from the wet out board and apply it to the part. Don't try to push it ito any inside corners or stretch it over any outside corners just yet. Just get the material stuck to the major flat areas. | ||
| − | + | Stretch the material over any outside corners, but don't try to fold it as it will only spring back. Push the material into inside corners, stretching it as you go. If it gets thin, more material can be added. I usually stretch the material, and wind up with a section of mat that I can reapply to the stretched, thinned out areas. | |
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As shown here, hold the material down with one hand while you stretch it over an outside corner with the other. If you pull some material off the edge, you can put it back over the outside of the corner, as it has probably gotten a bit thin there anyway. | As shown here, hold the material down with one hand while you stretch it over an outside corner with the other. If you pull some material off the edge, you can put it back over the outside of the corner, as it has probably gotten a bit thin there anyway. | ||
| + | {| | ||
| + | |[[Image:Even 29more applying material.JPG|center|thumb|Apply the wet out fiberglass board to the part.]] | ||
| + | |[[Image:26applying material.JPG|center|thumb|Stretch the material over any outside corners, and push it into any inside corners.]] | ||
| + | |[[Image:28stretching over corner.JPG|center|thumb|While holding the material down with one hand, stretch it over an outside corner with the other.]] | ||
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| + | I made a roller out of some threaded rod, a file handle and some 1/4 rod. It works extremely well for rolling out air bubbles in fiberglass. Move slowly, applying enough pressure to roll the air out, but not so much pressure that you move the mat around or push all of the resin out. Air bubbles look like clear voids, they are easily spotted when you put pressure on them as you can move them around."Dry" spots will show up as white strands of fiberglass that spring up out of the resin. | ||
| + | use consistent, firm pressure, moving steadily. It works better to pull the roller than to push it. | ||
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You can also use a brush, foam roller or your fingers to manipulate the air out. Squeegees don't work well on mat. Commercially made rollers of many sizes and shapes are available from most fiberglass supply houses. | You can also use a brush, foam roller or your fingers to manipulate the air out. Squeegees don't work well on mat. Commercially made rollers of many sizes and shapes are available from most fiberglass supply houses. | ||
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