Rust
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==Methods== | ==Methods== | ||
===Body panel rust removal=== | ===Body panel rust removal=== | ||
| + | ===Fixing rust holes=== | ||
| + | Grind down all the paint and rust from around the hole. Clamp a piece of copper to the other side (roof flashing, penny, etc.). Then, fill in the hole with a MIG welder. When done, unclamp the copper -- it won't stick to the panel. Also, it absorbs the heat, so the panel won't warp as much. | ||
| − | === | + | Rust pinholes are hard to repair with a welder because the "holes" are actually "craters". The hole is the bottom of a craterlike thinned out area of metal. |
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| + | Will brass work too? | ||
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| + | What about drilling and patching pinholes? | ||
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| + | ===Removing rust in seams=== | ||
| + | Spot blaster is useful. | ||
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| + | To do it right, you will generally need to pull the seam apart, remove the rust, and then hit it with a rust conversion product. However, sometimes you can open up the layers slightly with a hammer and putty knife used between the spotwelds. Bend the flange open, media blast into the seam, clean, prime with epoxy primer, brush in urethane seam sealer, and close the seam back up. If the seam is not accessible, flood it with a penetrating cavity wax, like 3M's Rustfighter. | ||
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| + | Products: | ||
| + | #[http://sem.ws/product.php?product_id=97 SEM High Build Self Leveling Seam Sealer] | ||
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| + | ===How to treat rusty drip-rails?=== | ||
| + | #sand blast | ||
| + | #wash with wax and grease remover | ||
| + | #spray with 2 coats of epoxy | ||
| + | #spray with seam sealer | ||
====Media blasting rust==== | ====Media blasting rust==== | ||
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*Media blasting can remove good metal from body panels too. Also, used media can have metal particles left in the media. | *Media blasting can remove good metal from body panels too. Also, used media can have metal particles left in the media. | ||
*Soda blasting can remove light rust, and won't warp panels. However, when soda blasting body panels, the resultant film can negatively affect finish adhesion. Epoxy primer can peel off. Soda blast medium must be "neutralized". 24 or 36 grit grinder, followed by warm water with soap. Do this with a scuff pad, and rinse thoroughly. Some finish companies specifically advise against the use of their products on soda-blasted finishes, which makes its use contentious. | *Soda blasting can remove light rust, and won't warp panels. However, when soda blasting body panels, the resultant film can negatively affect finish adhesion. Epoxy primer can peel off. Soda blast medium must be "neutralized". 24 or 36 grit grinder, followed by warm water with soap. Do this with a scuff pad, and rinse thoroughly. Some finish companies specifically advise against the use of their products on soda-blasted finishes, which makes its use contentious. | ||
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| + | ===Removing pitted rust=== | ||
| + | After removing all surface rust, treat with metal prep, wash, dry, sand, prime, fill the pits with polyester putty (or Evercoat's Metal 2 Metal), then smooth and prime again. | ||
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| + | A spot blaster is useful for this: silica as the medium. Grinding wheel, die grinder. | ||
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| + | Or, repeatedly prime with a high build primer and block sand. You may have to prime/block several times to get the pitted area up to the same level as the surface around it. | ||
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| + | Sprayable body filler, called "SlickSand"? From Evercoat? Like a "very high build primer"? Hard, but sands easy. | ||
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| + | Let naval jelly sit on the pitted area overnight, if possible. Cover naval jelly with plastic wrap to keep it from drying out overnight. | ||
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| + | Heat the pitted area until it glows, and then cool it with oil on a rag. Clean with wax/grease remover, scuff, prime, paint. Just for small areas, because it causes wrinkles and shrink marks. | ||
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| + | Product recommendation: Featherfill? | ||
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| + | ===Removing surface rust=== | ||
| + | *How about using baking soda and water? | ||
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| + | *To remove surface rust, use naval jelly (jelled phosphoric acid) and steel wool. | ||
| + | #Work in small areas, not larger than a square foot. | ||
| + | #Apply jelly with 000 steel wool, rub it in, and allow it to set for a couple of minutes. Don't let it dry. | ||
| + | #Rub again with steel wool. Repeat a few times, and then clean the area. Dry it immediately. | ||
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| + | *To convert/neutralize rust | ||
| + | # Get everything off first that you can by sanding and wire brushing (wire brushing will get into the pits better) | ||
| + | # A rust converter/neutralizer containing phospheric acid or another type of acid shold be used | ||
| + | # Be careful of getting this stuff on your concrete floor as it will bubble and decompose it | ||
| + | # Follow the instructions on the bottle when you are done there should be a fine coating on the metal which will help prevent further rust from developing | ||
| + | # This stuff is hard on paintbrushes (eats away the brisles) and you must be very careful of your eyes. Also it will ruin paint so again use caution. | ||
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| + | Need 80-180 grit sandpaper, DA sander (or sand by hand), steel wool, naval jelly, squirt bottle w/warm soapy water, and paper towels. | ||
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| + | #Get all heavy rust off with DA sander and 80-180 grit paper. | ||
| + | #Working in 1-2 square feet at a time, wearing rubber gloves, scrub with naval jelly and steel wool. Don't let the naval jelly dry, keep it wet, squirt with bottle. | ||
| + | #Rinse and re-apply naval jelly if necessary, to get to clean shiny metal. | ||
| + | #When finished with an area, wipe off excess naval jelly with paper towel, squirt on warm soapy water, and dry thoroughly. Then wipe down with lacquer thinner. Can then sand with 180 grit. After that, you can just use wax and grease remover, and then paint with epoxy primer. | ||
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#Scrub metal to a clean, bright finish. Wipe dry with paper towels, and let flash dry completely. | #Scrub metal to a clean, bright finish. Wipe dry with paper towels, and let flash dry completely. | ||
#Scuff dry panel with dry scuff pad, wipe with wax and grease remover until clean and dry; when wiped with a clean towel, it comes back up clean. | #Scuff dry panel with dry scuff pad, wipe with wax and grease remover until clean and dry; when wiped with a clean towel, it comes back up clean. | ||
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Don't spray expanding foam. It absorbs water, and will cause more rust. It can also expand and cause the panels to push out. | Don't spray expanding foam. It absorbs water, and will cause more rust. It can also expand and cause the panels to push out. | ||
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===After removing rust=== | ===After removing rust=== | ||
Need to wash and prep surface, with a solvent like lacquer thinner or DuPont Prep-Sol. | Need to wash and prep surface, with a solvent like lacquer thinner or DuPont Prep-Sol. | ||
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