Rust
(→Leaf spring) |
(→How to treat rusty drip-rails?) |
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To do it right, you will generally need to pull the seam apart, remove the rust, and then hit it with a rust conversion product. However, sometimes you can open up the layers slightly with a hammer and putty knife used between the spotwelds. Bend the flange open, media blast into the seam, clean, prime with epoxy primer, brush in urethane seam sealer, and close the seam back up. If the seam is not accessible, flood it with a penetrating cavity wax, like 3M's Rustfighter. | To do it right, you will generally need to pull the seam apart, remove the rust, and then hit it with a rust conversion product. However, sometimes you can open up the layers slightly with a hammer and putty knife used between the spotwelds. Bend the flange open, media blast into the seam, clean, prime with epoxy primer, brush in urethane seam sealer, and close the seam back up. If the seam is not accessible, flood it with a penetrating cavity wax, like 3M's Rustfighter. | ||
| + | |||
| + | ===Leaf spring rust=== | ||
| + | Remove rust, then, ideally, paint them separately. Re-assemble with teflon strips. | ||
===How to treat rusty drip-rails?=== | ===How to treat rusty drip-rails?=== | ||
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#spray with seam sealer | #spray with seam sealer | ||
| − | + | ===Media blasting rust=== | |
*Sand is not recommended for media blasting panels. It acts like little hammers, warping panels with compressive forces (analagous to hail). Technically, it can be done, but extreme caution must be used. | *Sand is not recommended for media blasting panels. It acts like little hammers, warping panels with compressive forces (analagous to hail). Technically, it can be done, but extreme caution must be used. | ||
*Use softer media (list examples): | *Use softer media (list examples): | ||
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