Rust

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(Methods)
(Methods)
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==Methods==
 
==Methods==
 
===Body panel rust removal===
 
===Body panel rust removal===
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====Getting your entire body dipped====
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Need more info on Redi-Strip. What chemical do they use? What's the cost? Can a hobbyist acquire and use the same chemical that Redi-Strip uses? When the body is returned to you, is it truly completely clean, or does it have to be cleaned to get all of the chemical removed from nooks and crannies, etc.?
  
 
====Quick fix for exposed areas (dents, etc.)====
 
====Quick fix for exposed areas (dents, etc.)====
 
If a dent causes an area of bare metal to be exposed. To "hold" it so it won't rust until a paint job is ready to be done: gently bump out the dent, sand, rattle can primer, rattle can sealer.
 
If a dent causes an area of bare metal to be exposed. To "hold" it so it won't rust until a paint job is ready to be done: gently bump out the dent, sand, rattle can primer, rattle can sealer.
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====Removing pitted rust in body panels====
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After removing all surface rust, treat with metal prep, wash, dry, sand, prime, fill the pits with polyester putty (or Evercoat's Metal 2 Metal), then smooth and prime again.
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A spot blaster is useful for this: silica as the medium. Grinding wheel, die grinder.
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Or, repeatedly prime with a high build primer and block sand. You may have to prime/block several times to get the pitted area up to the same level as the surface around it.
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Sprayable body filler, called "SlickSand"? From Evercoat? Like a "very high build primer"? Hard, but sands easy.
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Let naval jelly sit on the pitted area overnight, if possible. Cover naval jelly with plastic wrap to keep it from drying out overnight.
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Heat the pitted area until it glows, and then cool it with oil on a rag. Clean with wax/grease remover, scuff, prime, paint. Just for small areas, because it causes wrinkles and shrink marks.
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Product recommendation: Featherfill?
  
 
====Fixing rust holes in body panels====
 
====Fixing rust holes in body panels====
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To do it right, you will generally need to pull the seam apart, remove the rust, and then hit it with a rust conversion product. However, sometimes you can open up the layers slightly with a hammer and putty knife used between the spotwelds. Bend the flange open, media blast into the seam, clean, prime with epoxy primer, brush in urethane seam sealer, and close the seam back up. If the seam is not accessible, flood it with a penetrating cavity wax, like 3M's Rustfighter.
 
To do it right, you will generally need to pull the seam apart, remove the rust, and then hit it with a rust conversion product. However, sometimes you can open up the layers slightly with a hammer and putty knife used between the spotwelds. Bend the flange open, media blast into the seam, clean, prime with epoxy primer, brush in urethane seam sealer, and close the seam back up. If the seam is not accessible, flood it with a penetrating cavity wax, like 3M's Rustfighter.
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====Accessing rust between interior panels====
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Pressure washer with pencil tip can knock everything loose out.
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Drill small holes, get a spray wand with a 360-degree head. Then, when done, weld the holes shut.
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Turn panels around to slosh rust remover around. Blow compressed air inside the panel.
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Cut hole in panel? Spray rust killer with garden sprayer?
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A mirror can be used to check areas for rust.
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Don't spray expanding foam. It absorbs water, and will cause more rust. It can also expand and cause the panels to push out.
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====How to treat rusty drip-rails?====
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#blast
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#wash with wax and grease remover
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#spray with 2 coats of epoxy
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#spray with seam sealer
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====Plasma spray welding====
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With plasma spray welding, metal wire is converted to sprayable form, and used to repair rust holes, fill panel joints, and blend patch panels. One example is the machine sold by [http://www.rustbustersllc.com Rustbusters].
  
 
====Rusted window channels====
 
====Rusted window channels====
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LP3 as rust inhibitor on crankshafts?
 
LP3 as rust inhibitor on crankshafts?
 
===Accessing rust between interior panels===
 
Pressure washer with pencil tip can knock everything loose out.
 
 
Drill small holes, get a spray wand with a 360-degree head. Then, when done, weld the holes shut.
 
 
Turn panels around to slosh rust remover around. Blow compressed air inside the panel.
 
 
Cut hole in panel? Spray rust killer with garden sprayer?
 
 
A mirror can be used to check areas for rust.
 
 
Don't spray expanding foam. It absorbs water, and will cause more rust. It can also expand and cause the panels to push out.
 
 
===How to treat rusty drip-rails?===
 
#sand blast
 
#wash with wax and grease remover
 
#spray with 2 coats of epoxy
 
#spray with seam sealer
 
 
===Plasma spray welding===
 
With plasma spray welding, metal wire is converted to sprayable form, and used to repair rust holes, fill panel joints, and blend patch panels. One example is the machine sold by [http://www.rustbustersllc.com Rustbusters].
 
  
 
===Media blasting rust===
 
===Media blasting rust===
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*Soda blasting can remove light rust, and won't warp panels. However, when soda blasting body panels, the resultant film can negatively affect finish adhesion. Epoxy primer can peel off. Soda blast medium must be "neutralized". 24 or 36 grit grinder, followed by warm water with soap. Do this with a scuff pad, and rinse thoroughly. Some finish companies specifically advise against the use of their products on soda-blasted finishes, which makes its use contentious.
 
*Soda blasting can remove light rust, and won't warp panels. However, when soda blasting body panels, the resultant film can negatively affect finish adhesion. Epoxy primer can peel off. Soda blast medium must be "neutralized". 24 or 36 grit grinder, followed by warm water with soap. Do this with a scuff pad, and rinse thoroughly. Some finish companies specifically advise against the use of their products on soda-blasted finishes, which makes its use contentious.
  
===Removing pitted rust===
+
====Removing surface rust from body panels====
After removing all surface rust, treat with metal prep, wash, dry, sand, prime, fill the pits with polyester putty (or Evercoat's Metal 2 Metal), then smooth and prime again.
+
 
+
A spot blaster is useful for this: silica as the medium. Grinding wheel, die grinder.
+
 
+
Or, repeatedly prime with a high build primer and block sand. You may have to prime/block several times to get the pitted area up to the same level as the surface around it.
+
 
+
Sprayable body filler, called "SlickSand"? From Evercoat? Like a "very high build primer"? Hard, but sands easy.
+
 
+
Let naval jelly sit on the pitted area overnight, if possible. Cover naval jelly with plastic wrap to keep it from drying out overnight.
+
 
+
Heat the pitted area until it glows, and then cool it with oil on a rag. Clean with wax/grease remover, scuff, prime, paint. Just for small areas, because it causes wrinkles and shrink marks.
+
 
+
Product recommendation: Featherfill?
+
 
+
===Removing surface rust===
+
 
*How about using baking soda and water?
 
*How about using baking soda and water?
  
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#Apply jelly with 000 steel wool, rub it in, and allow it to set for a couple of minutes. Don't let it dry. For inclines, you can also soak some fabric in water, and lay it on the naval jelly.
 
#Apply jelly with 000 steel wool, rub it in, and allow it to set for a couple of minutes. Don't let it dry. For inclines, you can also soak some fabric in water, and lay it on the naval jelly.
 
#Rub again with steel wool. Repeat a few times, and then clean the area. Dry it immediately.
 
#Rub again with steel wool. Repeat a few times, and then clean the area. Dry it immediately.
 
*To convert/neutralize rust
 
# Get everything off first that you can by sanding and wire brushing (wire brushing will get into the pits better)
 
# A rust converter/neutralizer containing phospheric acid or another type of acid shold be used
 
# Be careful of getting this stuff on your concrete floor as it will bubble and decompose it
 
# Follow the instructions on the bottle when you are done there should be a fine coating on the metal which will help prevent further rust from developing
 
# This stuff is hard on paintbrushes (eats away the brisles) and you must be very careful of your eyes. Also it will ruin paint so again use caution.
 
  
 
Need 80-180 grit sandpaper, DA sander (or sand by hand), steel wool, naval jelly, squirt bottle w/warm soapy water, and paper towels.
 
Need 80-180 grit sandpaper, DA sander (or sand by hand), steel wool, naval jelly, squirt bottle w/warm soapy water, and paper towels.
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#Rinse and re-apply naval jelly if necessary, to get to clean shiny metal.
 
#Rinse and re-apply naval jelly if necessary, to get to clean shiny metal.
 
#When finished with an area, wipe off excess naval jelly with paper towel, squirt on warm soapy water, and dry thoroughly. Then wipe down with lacquer thinner. Can then sand with 180 grit. After that, you can just use wax and grease remover, and then paint with epoxy primer.
 
#When finished with an area, wipe off excess naval jelly with paper towel, squirt on warm soapy water, and dry thoroughly. Then wipe down with lacquer thinner. Can then sand with 180 grit. After that, you can just use wax and grease remover, and then paint with epoxy primer.
 
 
Need more info on the numerous types of media, which ones are recommended for what, cost, availability, etc.
 
 
 
====Getting your entire body dipped====
 
Need more info on Redi-Strip. What chemical do they use? What's the cost? Can a hobbyist acquire and use the same chemical that Redi-Strip uses? When the body is returned to you, is it truly completely clean, or does it have to be cleaned to get all of the chemical removed from nooks and crannies, etc.?
 
  
 
=Miscellaneous=
 
=Miscellaneous=

Revision as of 18:26, 13 July 2007

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