Bulletproof cooling system
| Line 1: | Line 1: | ||
| − | + | ==Bulletproof cooling system tips== | |
| − | + | *Use a radiator of at least the same square inch area that was used originally to cool the engine from the factory. '''The engine''', not the car. | |
| − | + | *Use a radiator with the same or more radiator cores that were used originally to cool the engine from the factory (not to exceed three cores) ''(confirm and expand)''. Once again, '''the engine''', not the car. | |
| − | + | *In most cases, use a radiator of copper and brass construction ''(confirm and expand)''. If using an aluminum radiator, install a sacrificial anode in the coolant water. | |
| − | + | *Block all air passageways where the air could get '''around''' instead of '''through''' the radiator core at the front of the vehicle. | |
| − | + | *Use a full shroud with the radiator positioned so that the fan blades are half-in and half-out of the shroud hole ''(confirm and expand)'', and no more than 1" of clearance between the shroud and the fan blade tips. (Just enough to prevent intervention when the motor rocks on its rubber mounts). | |
| − | + | *Fan recommendations: OEM 18 inch, 7-blade steel fan with 2" to 2 3/4" pitch. | |
| − | + | *Thermostatically controlled fan clutch. | |
| − | + | *Water pump and crankshaft pulleys sized according to what was on the engine from the factory. On a street motor, shoot for 1.2 to 1.3 times crank speed for pump pulley speed. ''(confirm)'' | |
| − | + | *Use a 180 degree thermostat. ''(confirm and expand)'' The sensor pill goes toward the motor. | |
| − | + | *Use a spiral-wound spring in the bottom radiator hose, to prevent collapse of the hose. | |
| − | + | *Use the proper pressure cap for the radiator being used. | |
| − | OEM 18 inch, 7-blade steel fan with 2" to 2 3/4" pitch. | + | *Ensure that there are sufficient openings in the engine compartment to allow the exit of all the air drawn into the compartment. This might require the removal or surgery of inner fender panels or using spacers to raise the hood of the car up an inch or two at the back. |
| − | + | *Maintain the proper coolant/water mix to prevent freezing up in winter. Water transfers heat better than coolant, but some coolant must be used to prevent freezing. | |
| − | Thermostatically controlled fan clutch. | + | |
| − | + | ||
| − | Water pump and crankshaft pulleys sized according to what was on the | + | |
| − | + | ||
| − | 180 degree thermostat. The sensor pill goes toward the motor. | + | |
| − | + | ||
| − | + | ||
| − | + | ||
| − | + | ||
| − | + | ||
| − | + | ||
| − | + | ||
| − | + | ||
Although I've never found it necessary, I think FlowKooler came up with an excellent idea when they marketed the flat aluminum discs to rivet to the backside of the stamped steel impeller in the pump. Or, if the impeller is iron, weld or braze a steel disc on. The only one I could find on a search was for a Mopar, but the disc wouldn't be that difficult to fab up yourself. Space the backing plate back farther with a couple of gaskets to prevent interference of the rivet heads on the backing plate if riveting a disc to a stamped steel impeller. | Although I've never found it necessary, I think FlowKooler came up with an excellent idea when they marketed the flat aluminum discs to rivet to the backside of the stamped steel impeller in the pump. Or, if the impeller is iron, weld or braze a steel disc on. The only one I could find on a search was for a Mopar, but the disc wouldn't be that difficult to fab up yourself. Space the backing plate back farther with a couple of gaskets to prevent interference of the rivet heads on the backing plate if riveting a disc to a stamped steel impeller. | ||
Your Privacy Choices