1937-1957 Buick Oldsmobile Pontiac suspension upgrade
(→Notes) |
|||
| Line 72: | Line 72: | ||
*Virtually all cars will need an adjustable proportioning valve. (Any change from the original setup – front or rear weight change, tire sizes, line sizes, rake or tail drag, disc conversion, etc., has the potential to throw your brake system out of balance). | *Virtually all cars will need an adjustable proportioning valve. (Any change from the original setup – front or rear weight change, tire sizes, line sizes, rake or tail drag, disc conversion, etc., has the potential to throw your brake system out of balance). | ||
*Most disc conversions will require at least 15 inch wheels; check it out before you order. | *Most disc conversions will require at least 15 inch wheels; check it out before you order. | ||
| − | *The project in this tutorial used a Corvette 1-inch master cylinder, and a 7-inch single stage booster. This combination turned out to be "close enough". The brakes are a vast improvement over manual drums, but not perfect. Stopping power is great, until about the last 20% of pedal travel, as several test panic stops revealed. At the very bottom, you just can’t push hard enough to lock them up. The system probably needs a 9 or 10 inch booster to be perfect. There simply isn't enough power in a | + | *The project in this tutorial used a Corvette 1-inch master cylinder, and a 7-inch single stage booster. This combination turned out to be "close enough". The brakes are a vast improvement over manual drums, but not perfect. Stopping power is great, until about the last 20% of pedal travel, as several test panic stops revealed. At the very bottom, you just can’t push hard enough to lock them up. The system probably needs a 9 or 10 inch booster to be perfect. There simply isn't enough power in a 7-inch booster to lock up a set of 215x75 15s on a 3500 pound car, on dry pavement. |
==Front suspension== | ==Front suspension== | ||
Your Privacy Choices