Freeing a stuck engine
(→Preparation: minor cleanup) |
(→Breaking the engine loose) |
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After allowing the penetrant to settle in for a few minutes to overnight, try to turn the crank in the reverse direction of rotation (CCW as you fac the engine looking towards the distributor) to remove the tension on the rings. The penetrant between the ring and the wall will eventually break the ring free from the cylinder wall. It may take a dozen or so tries before all of the stuck rings and bearings are free but with each successive try more fluid will fill the voids until the engine is free to turn. Allow the engine to make two or three revolutions before stopping the exercise. This will allow the excess penetration oil to evacuate itself from the combustion chambers and for some of the oil in the crankcase to move in the system. The engine will now have a new place to rest while the lubrication seeps into the surfaces of the internals. | After allowing the penetrant to settle in for a few minutes to overnight, try to turn the crank in the reverse direction of rotation (CCW as you fac the engine looking towards the distributor) to remove the tension on the rings. The penetrant between the ring and the wall will eventually break the ring free from the cylinder wall. It may take a dozen or so tries before all of the stuck rings and bearings are free but with each successive try more fluid will fill the voids until the engine is free to turn. Allow the engine to make two or three revolutions before stopping the exercise. This will allow the excess penetration oil to evacuate itself from the combustion chambers and for some of the oil in the crankcase to move in the system. The engine will now have a new place to rest while the lubrication seeps into the surfaces of the internals. | ||
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| + | Many years ago the writer bought a Commer van with a stuck engine. The poor aftermarket ignition wiring (the van originally had a diesel engine) had caused the engine to quit. The vehicle had been idle for over a year judging by its tax disc so Plus Gas was introduced into the plug holes daily for over a week. Trying to force the starting handle stripped the thread on the aluminium alloy jaw nut so that method of attack had failed. Fortunately the defective alloy part had been discontinued and replaced with a steel part so the new part was bought and fitted. Unfortunately even when the starting handle had timbers clamped on it for extra leverage the engine could still not be turned! At this point the starter motor was tried but the battery was too weak. A new heavy duty battery was purchased and this succeeded in freeing the engine on the third impact (the current draw was so high that the earth braid smoked!) The engine then fired-up and ran OK and at this point the astonished seller rushed out and said "Are you an electrician or something?" It was a great van and basically all it needed was two weeks of soaking with releasing fluid, a new battery and some attention to the ignition circuit. Engines from boats which have sunk are much more difficult. | ||
==After the engine has broken loose== | ==After the engine has broken loose== | ||
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