Cheapo paint job
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You get what you pay for. | You get what you pay for. | ||
| − | Hotrodding forums frequently witness posts by hotrodders endorsing various (and numerous) " | + | Hotrodding forums frequently witness posts by hotrodders endorsing various (and numerous) "cheapozoid" methods of painting a vehicle. |
| − | The overwhelming consensus of body professionals and experienced hotrodders is that, in most cases, " | + | The overwhelming consensus of body professionals and experienced hotrodders is that, in most cases, "Cheapozoid" paint jobs simply aren't worthwhile. There are many clever and reasonable ways to save money while building a hot rod, and, overall, aggressively scrimping on the paint job does not seem to be among them. While "Cheapozoid" jobs may be good for "Cheapozoid" vehicles (beaters, work or farm vehicles, "practice" cars for learning painting, etc.), they aren't good for vehicles in which you have invested significant amounts of time, money, and effort. |
| − | The complexities of the various painting products and application methods can make it difficult for an amateur to understand why scrimping on a paint job is, ultimately, not a wise decision. So, this article has been started in an effort to diminish those complexities. If you are an auto body professional, an experienced hotrodder, or simply someone with good information on the realities of the " | + | The complexities of the various painting products and application methods can make it difficult for an amateur to understand why scrimping on a paint job is, ultimately, not a wise decision. So, this article has been started in an effort to diminish those complexities. If you are an auto body professional, an experienced hotrodder, or simply someone with good information on the realities of the "Cheapozoid" paint job, please feel free to add to this article. |
| − | ==What's a " | + | ==What's a "cheapozoid" paint job?== |
| − | === | + | ===Cheapozoid application methods=== |
====Rattle cans==== | ====Rattle cans==== | ||
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Often referred to as "powder puff" paint jobs, because, historically, hotrodders actually applied paint with powder puffs used to apply makeup. | Often referred to as "powder puff" paint jobs, because, historically, hotrodders actually applied paint with powder puffs used to apply makeup. | ||
| − | These methods typically leave visible marks indicating that a | + | These methods typically leave visible marks indicating that a cheapozoid method of paint application was used. |
However, when viewing photos of paint jobs (in a magazine, on a website, etc.), there is a crucial understanding to keep in mind. The brush or roller marks can be hidden when photographed. This could be done unintentionally, or with "selective" photography methods. Note the two photos below. | However, when viewing photos of paint jobs (in a magazine, on a website, etc.), there is a crucial understanding to keep in mind. The brush or roller marks can be hidden when photographed. This could be done unintentionally, or with "selective" photography methods. Note the two photos below. | ||
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| − | |[[Image: | + | |[[Image:Cheapozoid_brush_job1.jpg|thumb|none|400px|A brush-applied paint job appears to look good in a photograph.]] |
| − | |[[Image: | + | |[[Image:Cheapozoid_brush_job2.jpg|thumb|none|400px|Another photograph of the same paint job, with different lighting and perspective, reveals clearly visible brush marks.]] |
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Rustoleum frankly can not compare with a "catalyzed" enamel for durability and hardness. Also there are no viable Rustoleum metallic paints for auto painting. Rustoleum enamels also lack the "depth" of color that many other types of paints have, though some people like the look as it compares well with many 1960's factory enamel paint jobs in appearence. The people who seem to be most fond of their Rustoleum paint jobs are those who have a car that was afflicted with very unattractive paint and that they do not intend to keep in the long term. | Rustoleum frankly can not compare with a "catalyzed" enamel for durability and hardness. Also there are no viable Rustoleum metallic paints for auto painting. Rustoleum enamels also lack the "depth" of color that many other types of paints have, though some people like the look as it compares well with many 1960's factory enamel paint jobs in appearence. The people who seem to be most fond of their Rustoleum paint jobs are those who have a car that was afflicted with very unattractive paint and that they do not intend to keep in the long term. | ||
Rustoleum has been successfully applied by spraying, rolling, and foam brushing. The last two methods are accompanied by rather a lot of sanding. Decent results can be gotten by all three methods. Rolling and brushing are popular with people who could never spray paint a car because of where they live and/or where they can park the car to work on it. Another plus is that unlike a base coat-clear coat type spray paint job where things must be done within certain time frames, a Rustoleum roll and brush job can be started and stopped at the painter's convenience. | Rustoleum has been successfully applied by spraying, rolling, and foam brushing. The last two methods are accompanied by rather a lot of sanding. Decent results can be gotten by all three methods. Rolling and brushing are popular with people who could never spray paint a car because of where they live and/or where they can park the car to work on it. Another plus is that unlike a base coat-clear coat type spray paint job where things must be done within certain time frames, a Rustoleum roll and brush job can be started and stopped at the painter's convenience. | ||
| − | The last plus to Rustoleum is that it is " | + | The last plus to Rustoleum is that it is "cheapozoid" and widely available. If you are considering using it, it is highly recommended that you expend a few dollars on some to experiment with first. Take it home and apply it to something like a lawnmower in the same way you would to your car. Sand it, polish it, wax it, the whole thing. Then study it very closely and decide if this is something you indeed want on your car. |
Professional car painters seem very much against the idea of Rustoleum paint being used to make a car nice enough to get by until the owner can manage a "real" paint job. It does not make a good "base" nor is it easy to remove. | Professional car painters seem very much against the idea of Rustoleum paint being used to make a car nice enough to get by until the owner can manage a "real" paint job. It does not make a good "base" nor is it easy to remove. | ||
| − | ==Why is the " | + | ==Why is the "cheapozoid" paint job so tempting?== |
*The learning curve: selecting equipment and learning how to use it, choosing finish products, getting a few screw-ups under your belt. | *The learning curve: selecting equipment and learning how to use it, choosing finish products, getting a few screw-ups under your belt. | ||
*Automotive paint costs a lot. People who have never bought car paint are used to paying "house paint" prices for paint, so hundreds per gallon seems very high | *Automotive paint costs a lot. People who have never bought car paint are used to paying "house paint" prices for paint, so hundreds per gallon seems very high | ||
*The satisfaction of a "do it yourself" project completed. | *The satisfaction of a "do it yourself" project completed. | ||
| − | *Forum posts often show | + | *Forum posts often show cheapozoid paint jobs that appear to be high-quality. |
*There are many examples that have started after the Moparts.com post that show completed work done over the years. -- '''show examples here''' | *There are many examples that have started after the Moparts.com post that show completed work done over the years. -- '''show examples here''' | ||
| − | ==Why not do a " | + | ==Why not do a "cheapozoid" paint job?== |
*Time invested in mechanical aspect of job. | *Time invested in mechanical aspect of job. | ||
*Deterioration of finish over time. Looks great at first, but can take years to deteriorate. | *Deterioration of finish over time. Looks great at first, but can take years to deteriorate. | ||
*Value of paint job relevant to value of rest of vehicle is disproportionate. AKA, using this method to paint a show car or rare automobile. | *Value of paint job relevant to value of rest of vehicle is disproportionate. AKA, using this method to paint a show car or rare automobile. | ||
| − | *Down the line, if you want to do a professional-quality paint job, all of the underlying cheapo paint will need to be removed. Stripping the paint, doing the filler work, priming, blocking, and removing trim or panels can take hundreds of hours for a hobbyist, or cost thousands of dollars if done professionally. When modern finishes are applied over cheapo finishes, the differing chemical make-ups cause problems. This removal is very time-consuming and labor intensive. | + | *Down the line, if you want to do a professional-quality paint job, all of the underlying cheapo paint will need to be removed. Stripping the paint, doing the filler work, priming, blocking, and removing trim or panels can take hundreds of hours for a hobbyist, or cost thousands of dollars if done professionally. When modern finishes are applied over cheapo finishes, the differing chemical make-ups cause problems. This removal is very time-consuming and labor intensive. Cheapozoid paints are often very soluble, and when modern finishes are applied over them, the solvents will get under the old paint and make it peel. |
| − | + | Cheapozoid Paint Job? | |
As a novice don’t even think about painting your car to save money. Do it for a quality job you can count on with better results than an economy paint shop would give you. Don’t think you can beat the $299 special on price though. I spent that in primer. Remember this is just an opinion and you know how those go. You can look at the pictures http://vintagebus.net/red/index.htm to see the extent I went to. I have over 10 hours in the color sand and buff which at $65 an hour shop rate, would have cost $650 alone. | As a novice don’t even think about painting your car to save money. Do it for a quality job you can count on with better results than an economy paint shop would give you. Don’t think you can beat the $299 special on price though. I spent that in primer. Remember this is just an opinion and you know how those go. You can look at the pictures http://vintagebus.net/red/index.htm to see the extent I went to. I have over 10 hours in the color sand and buff which at $65 an hour shop rate, would have cost $650 alone. | ||
The first step was to grind out all the rust and weld in any new panels. It has been going on for so long that I can only begin to guess at hours, but I would say close to 25. | The first step was to grind out all the rust and weld in any new panels. It has been going on for so long that I can only begin to guess at hours, but I would say close to 25. | ||
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Total with labor $6860 | Total with labor $6860 | ||
| − | ==When is a " | + | ==When is a "cheapozoid" paint job appropriate?== |
*Work truck. | *Work truck. | ||
*Beater. | *Beater. | ||
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Put basics in here, and see: [[First paint job]]. | Put basics in here, and see: [[First paint job]]. | ||
| − | ==Articles describing " | + | ==Articles describing "cheapozoid" paint jobs== |
*[http://www.rickwrench.com/50dollarpaint.html $50 paint job] -- RickWrench.com | *[http://www.rickwrench.com/50dollarpaint.html $50 paint job] -- RickWrench.com | ||
*[http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/body/hrdp_0707_1962_ford_falcon_budget_paint_job/index.html $98 paint job] -- Hot Rod Magazine | *[http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/body/hrdp_0707_1962_ford_falcon_budget_paint_job/index.html $98 paint job] -- Hot Rod Magazine | ||
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