Bulletproof cooling system
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'''DOES TUBE SIZE MATTER??''' | '''DOES TUBE SIZE MATTER??''' | ||
| − | The purpose of the radiator is to get the engine up to operating temperature as quick as possible, help it maintain optimum temperature, and remove excess heat when required. The radiator is another name for a heat exchanger, whereby combustion temperatures up to 4500 degrees are | + | The purpose of the radiator is to get the engine up to operating temperature as quick as possible, help it maintain optimum temperature, and remove excess heat when required. The radiator is another name for a heat exchanger, whereby combustion temperatures up to 4500 degrees are transferred to the cooling system of the engine block and taken outside the block via flexible rad hoses to be exposed to the cooling force of air through the rad core, thus, reducing the temperature of the coolant before returning it to the engine block. There are two restrictions in the system. One is the thermostat, which restricts flow and holds heat in the engine until warmed up, and the other is the rad core tubes. The rad tubes have to be of sufficient size so as to allow the coolant to flow through in an unrestricted manner, but also able to 'scrub off' BTU's or heat; which is based on the shape of the tube and the convection of heat away from the coolant to the outside air. A wide flat tube will expose more surface to the outside flow of air that a narrow tube . The reason for this is more surface area is exposed to cooling. Look at the pictures located below and see why that is. |
[[Image:Tube_sizes.gif]] [[Image:Alum_vs_copper_brass.gif]] | [[Image:Tube_sizes.gif]] [[Image:Alum_vs_copper_brass.gif]] | ||
[[Category:Engine]] | [[Category:Engine]] | ||
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| + | == What You Put In Your Cooling System == | ||
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| + | Sometimes the key to a bulletproof system is what you put in it and how. You can't just open the rad cap and dump whatever in it. It is recognized that a 50 - 50 mixture of water and antifreeze is an approved OEM mixture that should be adequate for most vehicles. | ||
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| + | In most cases, water is the bases of coolant in most systems. Can the water that you start with have a detrimental affect on your cooling system? Yes! Water is not necessarily clean and free from contaminates. Water can contain acid, alkaline, foreign matter, etc. These contaminates can combine with the metal within the cooling system and end up plugging or slowing down the flow within the system. Today, you will find about 10 different antifreeze products and about 30 different additives for your cooling system. WHY do you need them? Good question! | ||
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| + | Your OEM dealer and manufacturer wants you to use an approved 50 - 50 mix of antifreeze and water because they know and approve the source of that water and the glycol contained in that gallon jug. They know that the formula for that mix will not harm the internal metals or seals within that engine's cooling system. They also know from past experience and warranty replacement that the ditch water and pond scum that you mixed with 30 known additives that you put in your cooling system has cost them (and yourself0 billions of dollars over the years. Engineers have formulated cooling system cocktails for the most elaborate machines on earth, so why not use them? | ||
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| + | When your refilling your cooling system, the rad cap is open, and you pour directly into the system until it is full. Full means, a level one inch less than the cap height. The engine should be warmed up,and should be running at a fast idle of 1000 to 1200 rpm's. The engine is run until you can see movement in the rad and a slight steam rises from the open cap outlet. The cap is place on the rad outlet and turned until tight with the arrows aligned to point at the overflow outlet. | ||
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| + | When you are adding to the system, do not open the rad cap, add directly to the reservoir tank. | ||
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