How to rebuild an engine

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(Removal)
(Testing and break-in)
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Hi fellows, I'm the old techinspector1 here to share some information with you about oils, flat tappet camshafts and break-in procedures for them. The following is copied from a post I wrote for another auto enthusiast forum where we were talking about the oil companies changing oil formulations and the flat tappet camshaft failures we have experienced as a result.  
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The following is excerpted from a post written by techinspector1 for an auto enthusiast forum on the subject of changing automotive oil formulations and the flat tappet camshaft failures experienced as a result. Within the post some break-in procedures have been outlined:
  
Fellows, we are the victims of technology marching on. Oil formulations are being changed due to pressure from the OEM's and EPA. Zinc and phosphorus tend to coat O2 sensors and plug catalytic converters resulting in warranty claims as well as contributing to dirty exhaust emissions, so they are being eliminated from motor oils as we speak. These elements have been used in the oil since Noah was a kid to provide extreme pressure lubrication and protection from galling on heavily loaded engine components such as the cam lobe/lifter crown interface. The oil companies have no choice, they have to knuckle under to pressure from the powers that be.
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"Fellows, we are the victims of technology marching on. Oil formulations are being changed due to pressure from the OEM's and EPA. Zinc and phosphorus tend to coat O2 sensors and plug catalytic converters resulting in warranty claims as well as contributing to dirty exhaust emissions, so they are being eliminated from motor oils as we speak. These elements have been used in the oil since Noah was a kid to provide extreme pressure lubrication and protection from galling on heavily loaded engine components such as the cam lobe/lifter crown interface. The oil companies have no choice, they have to knuckle under to pressure from the powers that be.
  
 
I don't see this as being any different than points-type ignitions. Kettering invented the system early in the last century and it endured for some 70 years. When it came time to clean up the environment, the OEM's switched to electronic ignition and we never looked back. Now we have moved to solid state ignition with a coil for each cylinder, controlled by computers. Same with carburetors. Electronic fuel injection is light years ahead of the old technology, contributes to vastly improved fuel mileage and much cleaner emissions.
 
I don't see this as being any different than points-type ignitions. Kettering invented the system early in the last century and it endured for some 70 years. When it came time to clean up the environment, the OEM's switched to electronic ignition and we never looked back. Now we have moved to solid state ignition with a coil for each cylinder, controlled by computers. Same with carburetors. Electronic fuel injection is light years ahead of the old technology, contributes to vastly improved fuel mileage and much cleaner emissions.
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Put a socket on the harmonic damper retaining bolt and rotate the motor through at least 2 full revolutions while priming.
 
Put a socket on the harmonic damper retaining bolt and rotate the motor through at least 2 full revolutions while priming.
  
10. At the end of your 20 minute break-in period, drop the oil and filter and change them out. Drive the vehicle for 30 miles, altering the speed and letting the motor rev down from 60 mph to 20 mph with your foot off the gas pedal. Drop the oil and filter and repeat the EOS again. CHANGE THE VALVE SPRINGS TO THE ONES THAT CAME WITH THE CAM KIT. Drive for 500 miles and drop the oil and filter again.
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10. At the end of your 20 minute break-in period, drop the oil and filter and change them out. Drive the vehicle for 30 miles, altering the speed and letting the motor rev down from 60 mph to 20 mph with your foot off the gas pedal. Drop the oil and filter and repeat the EOS again. CHANGE THE VALVE SPRINGS TO THE ONES THAT CAME WITH THE CAM KIT. Drive for 500 miles and drop the oil and filter again."
 
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Revision as of 18:39, 3 September 2008

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