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| | vC4OEm <a href="http://lykmjlisdwpe.com/">lykmjlisdwpe</a>, [url=http://inlxmzfiaoxt.com/]inlxmzfiaoxt[/url], [link=http://erxwsaokodvb.com/]erxwsaokodvb[/link], http://jairwqczmqpl.com/ | | vC4OEm <a href="http://lykmjlisdwpe.com/">lykmjlisdwpe</a>, [url=http://inlxmzfiaoxt.com/]inlxmzfiaoxt[/url], [link=http://erxwsaokodvb.com/]erxwsaokodvb[/link], http://jairwqczmqpl.com/ |
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| − | ==Planning your build==
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| − | '''Before you ever START to plan the build of the vehicle, make sure you know EXACTLY what you need to do in order to register your vehicle in your state / county / town. Many people have had to do expensive changes to their street rod because they ignored this step until the vehicle was "ready to drive"'''
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| − | "Step One: Get catalogs from the Boys in the Business. Even if you plan to do a low $ build with few new parts, having a wide range of catalogs to browse through can help make decisions easier.
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| − | Step Two: Read the monthly rodding magazines that feature Ts, and browse the web for what others have done. expose yourself to a wide variety of designs
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| − | Step Three: Go to local car shows and talk to any / all of the T Bucket owners who are there. Most will be happy to give to a ride that will not leave you a jabbering ninny shaking on the pavement when you return. Others will scare the bejesus out of you and that will be the end of this project. The heaviest of these little cars weighs in at about 2200 pounds or so, most are under 2000, some as light as 15-1600. Damn near ANY engine, 4,6,or 8 will make happy speed in that light a platform. Plus, smaller engines weigh less anyway.
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| − | Step Four: If you have no building skills, take a welding class at the local community college for starters. You'll have tools and equipment to buy and rent as needed. You'll also need space, and more space, and more space. Although many nice cars are built under carports or in one car garages, it is nice to have a fairly empty 2 car one. You figure out how to tell Mama she'll have to park the Escalade in the drive for about 2 years!!
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| − | Step Five: Now that you have some basic knowledge under your belt, decide what style T you want to build......
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| − | *"classic" 23-25 or 26-27 roadster pickup,
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| − | *23-25 or 26-27 track car with hood, nose and turtle deck,
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| − | *23-25 or 26-27 "lakester" bucket with exposed fuel tank on naked framerails in the back, and there are others.
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| − | REMEMBER: MOCK IT UP, DON'T "FOCK" IT UP! Build your first frame effort from 2X4 lumber and nuts&bolts. Set it up on jackstands with your body on board and your frontend assembly, engine/trans and rearend underneath. TaKE YOUR TIME, DON'T START CUTTING THAT STEEL UNTIL YOU'VE GOT A REAL FEEL FOR WHAT YOU'RE TRYING TO ACCOMPLISH." Excerpts from soon-to-be-released bucket book by Pasadenahotrod.
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| − | Be honest with yourself and build your T Bucket to perform to your satisfaction.
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| − | The classic high horsepower, low rear end gears, steam roller rear tires and spoked front wheels are great for show's and an instant rush when you step on it, but may not be the ticket if you want to drive more than a few miles in comfort and get good gas mileage. Many builders are opting for four wheel disk brakes, fuel injection, moderate size tires, hydraulic shocks on the front suspension, 4 spd overdrive transmissions, etc. All of these features are a personal preference, and since there's no right or wrong way, build it your way.
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| | ==Frame== | | ==Frame== |
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