Rust, pitted
(→Chemical removal of pitted rust) |
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*If it's practical to remove and soak the panel or part, there is also the option of using electrolysis for rust removal or using one of several products that require a rusted part to be completely immersed. | *If it's practical to remove and soak the panel or part, there is also the option of using electrolysis for rust removal or using one of several products that require a rusted part to be completely immersed. | ||
* Another alternative is to use phosphoric acid. It is readily available at home centers such as Home Depot under the brand name Phosphoric Plus. It may be brushed on or a part may be soaked in the solution. Heavy pitting will take multiple applications with some wire brushing in between to speed the process. The chemical reaction of the phosphoric acid with iron oxide produces black, water-soluble iron phosphate, which can be scrubbed off. A follow up passivating treatment containing zinc phosphate, such as PPG DX520, can be used to prevent flash rusting. Phosphoric acid rust-removing products may or may not contain zinc phosphate, so read labels and directions carefully. | * Another alternative is to use phosphoric acid. It is readily available at home centers such as Home Depot under the brand name Phosphoric Plus. It may be brushed on or a part may be soaked in the solution. Heavy pitting will take multiple applications with some wire brushing in between to speed the process. The chemical reaction of the phosphoric acid with iron oxide produces black, water-soluble iron phosphate, which can be scrubbed off. A follow up passivating treatment containing zinc phosphate, such as PPG DX520, can be used to prevent flash rusting. Phosphoric acid rust-removing products may or may not contain zinc phosphate, so read labels and directions carefully. | ||
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| + | ====DIY electrolytic rust removal for smaller parts==== | ||
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| + | Things you will need... | ||
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| + | -1 plastic tub big enough to submerge your gpart. Rubbermaid comes to mind. | ||
| + | ...or at least big enough to submerge half of it, and you can flip it and do the other half later. | ||
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| + | -1 box of WASHING soda (available at any big retail store near you.) | ||
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| + | -1 strip of scrap steel (NOT stainless. under NO circumstances should you use stainless steel for this method. The electrolytic reaction between the chrome and stainless will create a VERY nasty compound.) | ||
| + | Rebar or a metal broom or mop handle would be good. | ||
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| + | -12v battery charger capable of a constant 2-amp current. (Make sure the clips aren't stainless steel.) | ||
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| + | -water | ||
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| + | -steel wool pad | ||
| + | ******************* | ||
| + | With the steel wool, gently remove any surface rust as well as you can without scuffing the metal. | ||
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| + | In a WELL VENTILATED area.... | ||
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| + | Take the tub, mix one teaspoon of washing soda for each pint water. | ||
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| + | Put your grill in the water/soda mix, and hook up the NEGATIVE clip to the grill. | ||
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| + | The POSITIVE lead should be clipped to the steel rod and set in the water. Don't submerge it, but stand it up in the water against the side of the tub. | ||
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| + | Set your battery charger to a constant 2 amps...and walk away. | ||
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| + | You should start to see a fizz coming off your part. This is the electrolytic reaction that will remove the rust. | ||
| + | Leave it overnight. Check it the next day. If you're not satisfied, leave it submerged longer. | ||
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| + | This will even remove hard to get pitted rust, and will not harm the metal underneath. | ||
====Removal with heat==== | ====Removal with heat==== | ||
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