Building a new shop

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(Walls and roofs)
(Foundation and floor)
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Some people prefer a curb around the perimeter of my building, rather than a slab. The reason for the curb is that it will keep out moisture, insects, etc. When pouring floors, always have a rotating laser level on hand and double check levels as the pour and leveling goes on. Grade floor from corners to middle, and center of space to outdoor openings. Put a sump pit in large buildings to collect runoff water and use a gravity drain or pump out system to remove it. Increase floor thickness in areas where you are using a lift or have heavy shop equipment.
 
Some people prefer a curb around the perimeter of my building, rather than a slab. The reason for the curb is that it will keep out moisture, insects, etc. When pouring floors, always have a rotating laser level on hand and double check levels as the pour and leveling goes on. Grade floor from corners to middle, and center of space to outdoor openings. Put a sump pit in large buildings to collect runoff water and use a gravity drain or pump out system to remove it. Increase floor thickness in areas where you are using a lift or have heavy shop equipment.
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I would add that if you are considering a car lift or heavy vehicles that you should plan on a slab thinckness of at least 6" rather than 4".  Tell the concrete installer that you want a "smooth' floor.  Try sweeping rough concrete and then try smooth.  You will never want rough again.
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In you are in a frost zone you should probably inquire about "frost walls."  This will keep the outer walls from lifting and cracking with the frost.  Mark L.
  
 
==Walls and roofs==
 
==Walls and roofs==

Revision as of 10:54, 20 December 2008

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